Lude Posted February 2, 2012 Share Posted February 2, 2012 right so ive just re-firbished my PAS pump, and put on my aux belt. i start the car up, after being on idle for a few mins and turn off, the belt looks asif its coming over the tensioner pulley? its overhangin about 1or2mm. ive taken it back off, and put back on, so its seated nicely, not overhanging. start the car back up for few seconds then checked it, and its moved off again? is it suppsted to do this? im sure it used to run like this before and never fell off completly, i havent touched the water pump, crank damper, alternator, and have put the PAS pump back on propper, so theres no reason why anything else would be "nocking it out of line" note i have not driven the car harsh, which would result it jumping off the pulley. also i dont run this part as i have removed the air con Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastcar Posted February 2, 2012 Share Posted February 2, 2012 i dont think it should overhang i dont think mine is. Is that the damper for the tensioner? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted February 2, 2012 Share Posted February 2, 2012 (edited) The tensioner arm has maybe worn and is running the idler pulley on the wonk. Edited February 2, 2012 by David P (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Blyth Posted February 2, 2012 Share Posted February 2, 2012 (edited) Check your harmonic damper crank pulley with the tippex test. When mine went, the first thing I noticed was the belt sitting about 2mm over the edge of the idler pulley. I was caused by the outer ring of the crank pulley attempting to escape! Edit: I've just seen one of your other postings saying you've got a squeak in that area also. That was the second symptom that I had when my pulley failed. Edited February 2, 2012 by Andy Blyth (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lude Posted February 2, 2012 Author Share Posted February 2, 2012 thanks andy, i will do a tipex test on satuarday to confirm it. its the squeek thats doing my head in. wondered if it was the PAS bearing, the aux belt, or the tensioner doing the squeek. i would imagine its going to be the crank damper. seen a few posts on here they tend to fail, so i will get an OEM one. on a scale of 1to10 how difficult isit to remove it? special tool required? or just a huge breaker bar? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Blyth Posted February 2, 2012 Share Posted February 2, 2012 IF you've got the right tools (harmonic damper removal tool, big breaker bar, tool to lock the crank, BIG torque wrench, shredded wheat for breakfast) it'a about a "2." Using anything other than the right tools I could see it quickly becoming a "10." Taking the radiator out makes the job much easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lude Posted February 2, 2012 Author Share Posted February 2, 2012 hmmm, undertray is off with all air con etc removed so theres plenty of room under there.. iv got a large breaker bar, and some shreaded wheat here what tool do you need to lock the crank? do garages keep damper removal tools and this crank lock tool there? or do i have to locate 1st? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuaneT.Turbo Posted February 2, 2012 Share Posted February 2, 2012 My squeek was cause by a stretched belt, new belt and problem solved... forme anyway.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D8MOA Posted February 2, 2012 Share Posted February 2, 2012 long shot.... when i brought my 2nd TT it had a belt squeek which i found out to be the power steering pump pulley. the nut had worked loose and the pulley started drifting off the pump splines causing the belt to not sit straight and become noisy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted February 2, 2012 Share Posted February 2, 2012 iv got a large breaker bar, and some shreaded wheat here what tool do you need to lock the crank? do garages keep damper removal tools and this crank lock tool there? or do i have to locate 1st? As you have a manual you can try putting it in gear and have someone sit in and hold the brake pedal and then try with the breaker bar.....very unlikely to undo it without an extension over the top of the bar (scaffold tube etc). This way is not the 'proper' way just like the breaker bar and starter motor method isn't but it usually gets the nut loose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lude Posted February 2, 2012 Author Share Posted February 2, 2012 long shot.... when i brought my 2nd TT it had a belt squeek which i found out to be the power steering pump pulley. the nut had worked loose and the pulley started drifting off the pump splines causing the belt to not sit straight and become noisy Thanks for that. Ive jusr had the pump off and checked the pas pulley which is ok guna do tippex test satuarday and will post up then... Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted February 3, 2012 Share Posted February 3, 2012 Don't tell me you just removed the air con pump and put a short belt on, please.... If you have you may be in for a real bad shock, fingers crossed for you...... Search my user name and air con removal and broken / cracked engine block. I don't have time to go through it all again. You CANNOT, CANNOT, CANNOT just remove the air con pump... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kirk Posted February 3, 2012 Share Posted February 3, 2012 I must find this thread but am having great difficulty! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimojameso Posted February 3, 2012 Share Posted February 3, 2012 Don't tell me you just removed the air con pump and put a short belt on, please.... If you have you may be in for a real bad shock, fingers crossed for you...... Search my user name and air con removal and broken / cracked engine block. I don't have time to go through it all again. You CANNOT, CANNOT, CANNOT just remove the air con pump... Uh oh that doesn't sound good!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lude Posted February 3, 2012 Author Share Posted February 3, 2012 Don't tell me you just removed the air con pump and put a short belt on, please.... If you have you may be in for a real bad shock, fingers crossed for you...... Search my user name and air con removal and broken / cracked engine block. I don't have time to go through it all again. You CANNOT, CANNOT, CANNOT just remove the air con pump... ive got a brace on there calm down Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted February 3, 2012 Share Posted February 3, 2012 Are you sure the PAS pump isn't now cocked over? Put a straight edge on the PAS pulley face and see it isabsolutely spot on in line with the other pulleys. If it's even out a fraction it will make the belt walk on the other pulley(s). Put the AC pump back on and see if the problem goes away, if it does your brace is, err, not very good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lude Posted February 3, 2012 Author Share Posted February 3, 2012 Are you sure the PAS pump isn't now cocked over? Put a straight edge on the PAS pulley face and see it isabsolutely spot on in line with the other pulleys. If it's even out a fraction it will make the belt walk on the other pulley(s). Put the AC pump back on and see if the problem goes away, if it does your brace is, err, not very good hmm i suppose it could be a factor... however the PAS pump can only go on or off, it cant really go half on? (unless you dont have the bolts done up correctly) i think its best if i do the tipex test first, then look at a new brace, will post up tomorrow, thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lude Posted February 4, 2012 Author Share Posted February 4, 2012 update, been up my garage today, did the tipex test. it failed. only had the car on idle for a few seconds, and revved it. (didnt take it for drive) put the aux belt back on the tensioner wheel, and after a few seconds it goes back off. do i defo 100% need a new one? or could it be that the PAS pump being out of line causing the damper to split. PS man those dampers are expensive lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted February 4, 2012 Share Posted February 4, 2012 If the outer ring is no longer bonded to the inner ring it's 100%, totally boat anchor material. They can hardly be called very expensive, if you think they are dear never in your wildest dreams think of buying an old NSX Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lude Posted February 4, 2012 Author Share Posted February 4, 2012 lol ok, thanks mate do you have any for sale? (brand new obv) or is whifbitz the cheapest place to get em? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted February 4, 2012 Share Posted February 4, 2012 I had two very low hour used ones but now sold. It's a Toyota part, although Whifbitz have a new "copy" part for sale now I think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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