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My mr2 project


CJ

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I agree but have decided that the standalone is going to be outside of my budget (which TBH doesn't really have a number attached but is a sort of rough guide in my head) and will have to wait until the future when I decide on the next series of upgrades.

 

For the time being I am going to stick to the plan of trying to get the car to as close as 300bhp as we can using the readily available and reasonably inexpensive mods. These will now include:

 

Apexi Gt exhaust

ST205 Charge cooler and pump

Heatwrap for the CC

Electronic Boost Controller

New Bosch pump for the CC (if needed)

Rad for the CC

3" D/P

Rev 3 metal HG

Apexi air intake

CT20B turbo (possibly)

Rev 3 cams (possibly)

 

That would seem to be the finished list - probably :innocent::D

 

That will coast 300hp mate.

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Don't go with heatwrap on the CC btw. Get the sticky back tinfoil looking stuff and stick that onto the bottom of the CC and around the edges. Then get some of the heatshield material used on Supras to protect the master cylinder etc (not sure exactly what it's called but it looks almost like metal bubble wrap) and put that underneath the CC. Job done.

 

Wrapping the whole thing would be overkill, you'll be amazed how cool the top of it is with the radiator flowing.

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Also it's worth heatwrapping the underside of the chargecooler core if not done already. It sits milimetres off the head so picks up quite a bit of heat from the engine.

 

*cough* lol

 

All sounds good so far CJ. Apexi is the intake that's raved about, but only for the same reason as on every other car, i.e. there is that ancient copy of some magazine review comparing skyline filter elements that decides that the Apexi is the best. As has been mentioned by Johnny the AFM will present a minor restriction, but removing it requires extra engine management as you'd need to move to using MAP.

 

Also, if you're keeping the recirculating dump valve, be prepared for some *odd* noises as you will have removed the stock resonator box which silences the intake a lot.

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*cough* lol

:D

 

All sounds good so far CJ.

I like reading words like this! :)

 

Also, if you're keeping the recirculating dump valve, be prepared for some *odd* noises as you will have removed the stock resonator box which silences the intake a lot.

 

Other than the wonderful noise, what benefit is there to fitting an HKS BOV?

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Other than the wonderful noise, what benefit is there to fitting an HKS BOV?

 

It will give you advance warning of when your turbo seals are going by leaking oil out all over your engine bay?

 

Actually now you mention it, I seem to remember the stock valve doesn't seal closed until it sees a certain amount of boost pressure, much higher than aftermarket ones. So if you're modulating the throttle a bit you won't see boost. Aftermarket ones seal as soon as there's no vacuum (i.e. positive boost pressure) so you get on boost a milisecond quicker, but you might sometimes get some small amount of boost when you don't particularly want it.

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If you're staying Rev 2 ECU, keep the stock BOV, and recirc. Or you'll potentially encounter some problems on gear change with overfuelling due to the AFM air reading and actual air flow being out of sync due to the venting to atmosphere.

 

I ran 1.2bar on a CT20b with stock BOV. No issues.

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If you're staying Rev 2 ECU, keep the stock BOV, and recirc. Or you'll potentially encounter some problems on gear change with overfuelling due to the AFM air reading and actual air flow being out of sync due to the venting to atmosphere.

 

I ran 1.2bar on a CT20b with stock BOV. No issues.

Thank you my friend.... Would have loved the noise though :D

 

I remember the noises of my old Orange car. The BOV, the screamer pipe - Wow, I miss that! :)

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If you're staying Rev 2 ECU, keep the stock BOV, and recirc. Or you'll potentially encounter some problems on gear change with overfuelling due to the AFM air reading and actual air flow being out of sync due to the venting to atmosphere.

 

I ran 1.2bar on a CT20b with stock BOV. No issues.

 

It's actually worse than that on the MR2s. I don't have any idea why but if you fit an aftermarket BOV to a rev1/2 it won't idle properly and it'll struggle to start. I bought one for mine and I was left absolutely gutted when it didn't work. I was expecting the symptoms you describe, assuming that the guys on the MR2 forum were exagerating, but no... it runs like a pile of dog poo. A million times worse than a VTA on a UK Sup.

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Don't go with heatwrap on the CC btw. Get the sticky back tinfoil looking stuff and stick that onto the bottom of the CC and around the edges. Then get some of the heatshield material used on Supras to protect the master cylinder etc (not sure exactly what it's called but it looks almost like metal bubble wrap) and put that underneath the CC. Job done.

Any idea where I should look for this? :blink:

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It's actually worse than that on the MR2s. I don't have any idea why but if you fit an aftermarket BOV to a rev1/2 it won't idle properly and it'll struggle to start. I bought one for mine and I was left absolutely gutted when it didn't work. I was expecting the symptoms you describe, assuming that the guys on the MR2 forum were exagerating, but no... it runs like a pile of dog poo. A million times worse than a VTA on a UK Sup.

That is definitely one to avoid then.

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It's actually worse than that on the MR2s. I don't have any idea why but if you fit an aftermarket BOV to a rev1/2 it won't idle properly and it'll struggle to start. I bought one for mine and I was left absolutely gutted when it didn't work. I was expecting the symptoms you describe, assuming that the guys on the MR2 forum were exagerating, but no... it runs like a pile of dog poo. A million times worse than a VTA on a UK Sup.

 

My first MR2 was a Rev 2 Turbo. It had a VTA BOV and it idled fine - but gear change was horrendous. Went back to stock on that it was perfect. Suppose it depends on how good/bad the seal is at idle. I think the HKS one available around 1999/2000 was one of the worst offenders. Mine was a Sard one I think.

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My first MR2 was a Rev 2 Turbo. It had a VTA BOV and it idled fine - but gear change was horrendous. Went back to stock on that it was perfect. Suppose it depends on how good/bad the seal is at idle. I think the HKS one available around 1999/2000 was one of the worst offenders. Mine was a Sard one I think.

 

Yeah the one I got was an HKS. I also tried just blocking up the pipes in order to ditch the BOV, but that was just as bad. I then took the BOV outlet off and blocked up the engine side of it. That wouldn't even start lol.

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So, that will be for the underside of the CC?

 

 

Both are for the underside. Stick the sticky stuff, sticky end up, to the non-sticky chargecooler bottom. Once stuck put the non-sticky bubble stuff underneath the sticky stuff stuck to the non-sticky chargecooler.

 

Easy as that :D

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Both are for the underside. Stick the sticky stuff, sticky end up, to the non-sticky chargecooler bottom. Once stuck put the non-sticky bubble stuff underneath the sticky stuff stuck to the non-sticky chargecooler.

 

Easy as that :D

I've read that at least 10 times and still cannot work it out! :blink:

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I've read that at least 10 times and still cannot work it out! :blink:

 

I'll consider that job done then :D

 

The adhesive material in the ebay link gets stuck to the bottom of the chargecooler. Trim it so that it covers the entire bottom panel and up the sides. The other aluminium heatshield stuff is just another protective layer to totally insulate the CC from the head of the engine. It might even get a little bit flattened as there isn't a great deal of space between it and the head. It folds quite easily so when fitting the charge cooler just place the alloy shield stuff on top of the head and lay the CC in position on top of it. Trim what you don't need. Job done.

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I'll consider that job done then :D

 

The adhesive material in the ebay link gets stuck to the bottom of the chargecooler. Trim it so that it covers the entire bottom panel and up the sides. The other aluminium heatshield stuff is just another protective layer to totally insulate the CC from the head of the engine. It might even get a little bit flattened as there isn't a great deal of space between it and the head. It folds quite easily so when fitting the charge cooler just place the alloy shield stuff on top of the head and lay the CC in position on top of it. Trim what you don't need. Job done.

That's much more betterer! :D

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