FOSTA Posted January 5, 2012 Author Share Posted January 5, 2012 Great info mate! Nice one! Cheers So I take it your are doing an NA-T conversion or thinking about it anyways? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noz Posted January 5, 2012 Share Posted January 5, 2012 do you know why/how your boost is limited to 7psi, can you limit the boost to say 3psi and if so what's the best way to go about this, anyone? (weak wastegate?) My limit is 7psi as i have a 7psi spring in the wastegate. without meth injection i have no need for go further. now its running ok im aiming for more than a boost increase will grab me alone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pjavon Posted January 6, 2012 Share Posted January 6, 2012 Great thread mate. This could help me in the future as I'm sure there will be some teething problems as with most conversions, it's part of the fun;) Just hope my power figures are in the same region as yours:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noz Posted January 6, 2012 Share Posted January 6, 2012 Im sure your eat mine for breakfast mate. It feels smoother than my dyno run, I'm soooo confident I'm hitting better figures, but without a dyno run its just theory and not worth talking about. For now, I'm somewhere around the dyno run. You ever thought of water/meth injection? It would be such a simple job while you have everything out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FOSTA Posted January 6, 2012 Author Share Posted January 6, 2012 What's that warter/meth thing and how dose it work? Lol sorry for being a ding bat! Lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pjavon Posted January 6, 2012 Share Posted January 6, 2012 As above, never looked into it to be honest. Got any info you can share with us ding bats lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan_Turism0 Posted January 6, 2012 Share Posted January 6, 2012 apparently one of the guys in the states has got 704WHP out of his NA-T with the stock pistons - http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?529562-getting-boosted! xA5yQGYlYqQ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noz Posted January 6, 2012 Share Posted January 6, 2012 700WHP would be possible on stock pistons but wouldn't of thought they would like that for long. with a 1.3-1.6 gasket you could do that with high compression easiy enough. Not everyone has had good results from water meth though. It the next step for me, as I'd like a safer tune with high compression turbo engine. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=937176 ^^ Basic water/meth information. David P is running this with his AEM on his supercharger. He is aiming for 14psi on stock HG & pistons good lad! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fixcz Posted January 6, 2012 Share Posted January 6, 2012 :di have allready done this and have been driving with it roughly 8 months around 2000 miles i have been doing this in europe and i have done a conversion on a golf vr6 and my first time doing a toyota;)http://youtu.be/rK8cZFllWVo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noz Posted January 7, 2012 Share Posted January 7, 2012 Cool dude. list ur set up for meth :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Abz Posted January 7, 2012 Share Posted January 7, 2012 TT power is only 60bhp(Import)-100(UK)bhp more. with a stock NA-T kit your looking at 150 extra bhp. A standard kit with net you more power than any stock TT engine. Obviously most twinturbos are BPU or have engine upgrades, but with high compression that fights against the lag reduction of having a twin set up. You've already bought your car, and given it lots of time, love, and emotions, peice your kit together and put some boost into it. I wouldn't ever recommend starting a project with an NA though, as it's far more sensible bang-for-buck to get the TT in the first place, and get a 6speed and the only limitation is going to be your income. If you had a GTE lump, you would never be looking up on compression ratio worries or stupid stuff like "I need new plugs, now I've got to remove all that intake nonsense off the top of my engine". That's not 400bhp though mate, TT bhp is 280bhp (import). You would need to BPU it. hi all some copy from nz supra forum::cool:You have 3 main options: Sell the NA and buy a TT. This is the easist, simpliest and most probably cheapest option so give it very careful consideration. Turbo your 2JZ-GE engine. Note: this information is not a guide on how to turbo a 2JZ-GE engine, just some information on the major items that are required to do so. Turboing the 2JZ-GE has been done a number of times in the USA and can make a very effective package. The NA has the same block, crank and rods as the TT and is a very strong motor that will withstand turboing quite well. It has a slightly better flowing exhaust port setup as well. You can use the std pistons but you will need to decompress the engine down from 10.0 to 8.5 by using a thicker head gasket. There are aftermarket exhaust manifolds for bolting a single turbo (any one you choose really) onto the engine. You can put up to 600bhp through the NA engine/drivetrain before things start to break. You will need extra fueling if you plan to go above 400+bhp though. You can use 2 extra injectors (eg. 550cc ea. with extra injector controller) in the inlet manifold as this should work quite well on the NA. Do not do this on a TT motor though due to the different inlet manifold design. The ECU will also need to be fooled into thinking there is no boost as it will not work if it sees boost pressure through the MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor. You will also need to do a heavy duty clutch upgrade. Replace your 2JZ-GE with a 2JZ-GTE engine. This would involve an ECU change (and associated wiring harness changes) as well as the engine. Benefits are an inbuilt oil cooler and oil cooling under the pistons. Deficits are traction control (can be removed) and you "only" get 320bhp (Japan 280bhp) from std turbos, with around 420bhp (Japan 380bhp) at max boost from them. Other considerations: Replace the 5 speed/4 spd auto with the 6 speed Getrag box. The 5 speed is strong, so but will need replacing if drag racing is planned or you are running over 260rwkw. If you do replace it you will need to change the diff as well as the NA has a 4.1 diff and the TT auto is 3.7 and the TT 6 speed is 3.3. If you have an NA auto you will need to upgrade the auto as they will not withstand the extra torque from the turbo engine. If your diff is not a Torsen LSD then you will need to get a LSD. Options are a TRD LSD or a secondhand factory Supra Torsen diff. Check your Trans code on the aluminium tag under the bonnet. If its A01A then you need a Torsen. If its A01B then your'e okay. fuel pump - same on both motors so no worries there up to 550-600bhp Just to clear something up on this thread, the imports were not 280 bhp as the internet myths state, they came with similar power to the UK's and were around the 320 bhp, thought this should be cleared up as I noticed a few people have mentioned it on this thread. My stock J Spec dyno'd at 352 bhp (0.8 bar) at near enough stock boost with just the cats removed, this was at SRR heart breaker! Though didn't break my heart! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noz Posted January 7, 2012 Share Posted January 7, 2012 Did u dyno it before you upped the boost? Tt is 9psi isnt it. not sure if thsts an accurate comparison. I can beleive its more though as when bpu they are both so similair. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noz Posted March 8, 2012 Share Posted March 8, 2012 Thread revival Jamie, any luck with this 600bhp target? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supra_Scott Posted April 5, 2012 Share Posted April 5, 2012 (edited) Felt the need to post on this thread just to back up the benefits and reliability if going na-t. I bought my Supra SZ 9 years ago when I was 22, completely stock and with 40k miles on it. Insurance was £2k due to my age and living in Birmingham. An import TT was un insurable for me, and UK TT's were out of my price range. My heart bought the car not my head. The standard power was great coupled with the rwd. Over the years I've got the car looking how I want it but did feel the need for more power. With the time/money and effort i had put into the car going NA-T appealed to me. I like the power delivery of a single and the cost using a secondhand kit sweetened the deal. I managed to achieve a so far reliable (for the last 3 year's to date) 374bhp and 404Nm torque @ 6psi boost for around £1200, I believe a good exhaust, de cat, filter and fmic would cost that much to go BPU and that is if u already had the TT engine fitted and running. All of the work was done in my garage at home without power tools or a ramp, only the mapping was done by a specialist. Anyone can go out, buy a TT, take it to a garage and hand over lots of money. Where is the fun or sense of achievement in that? I did this because I'd rather not conform, prefer to think outside of the box and don't follow the herd. Which ever route people decide to go down is up to them, there is no right or wrong, the main thing is that its a decision based on fact rather than speculation and above all... Enjoy it! Full spec and pics in my garage. Edited April 5, 2012 by Supra_Scott (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan_Turism0 Posted April 5, 2012 Share Posted April 5, 2012 Currently planning my NA-T build, i'm not looking to break records but definitely be running a decent amount of power, as I have a NA 6speed i've got the most important part in the V161 Parts list currently looks like so Eagle Rods JE Pistons (depending on how pitted the cylinders are may get it bored and honed and go 86.5mm) ARP Main/Rod/Headstuds BW S372 Turbo Will be keeping stock cams for the time being but if funds allow i'll be putting in some BC valve springs and Ti Retainers FS Motorsport FFIM and Fuel Rail ID1000cc injectors Will be converting to CoP too Standalone ECU (most likely Syvecs) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_jekyll Posted April 5, 2012 Share Posted April 5, 2012 ill be doing another na-t shortly . why not have 2 aye Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noz Posted April 5, 2012 Share Posted April 5, 2012 Currently planning my NA-T build, i'm not looking to break records but definitely be running a decent amount of power, as I have a NA 6speed i've got the most important part in the V161 Parts list currently looks like so Eagle Rods JE Pistons (depending on how pitted the cylinders are may get it bored and honed and go 86.5mm) ARP Main/Rod/Headstuds BW S372 Turbo Will be keeping stock cams for the time being but if funds allow i'll be putting in some BC valve springs and Ti Retainers FS Motorsport FFIM and Fuel Rail ID1000cc injectors Will be converting to CoP too Standalone ECU (most likely Syvecs) Nice spec. Where you getting the fuel rail The FSMoto FFIM is what I'm after as well, plug and play with all the goodies good choice though they aren't cheap. I want the kit that comes with the TB as well and adpaters for the ICV and TPS. How come you are swapping the rods? Jamesy had 825hp from stock pistons and rods. 825!! I only want 600 so I'll be using stock rods. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan_Turism0 Posted April 5, 2012 Share Posted April 5, 2012 Nice spec. Where you getting the fuel rail The FSMoto FFIM is what I'm after as well, plug and play with all the goodies good choice though they aren't cheap. I want the kit that comes with the TB as well and adpaters for the ICV and TPS. How come you are swapping the rods? Jamesy had 825hp from stock pistons and rods. 825!! I only want 600 so I'll be using stock rods. True it will be a lot of playing by ear mate, it's a case of while the block is apart I may aswell replace them unless they look to be absolutely mint + if I want to push further power wise saves me ripping it apart again, iirc didn't David Bjork run 1k+ through Eagle rods? Oh i forgot ACL bearings off the list too I'm hoping turbo choice isn't too big or laggy from what i've seen of it in the states it should have a good compromise of power and spool with plenty of headroom should i wish to go higher (i'm not looking for out and out response otherwise i'd have gone for the S362). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FOSTA Posted April 5, 2012 Author Share Posted April 5, 2012 Thread revival Jamie, any luck with this 600bhp target? Not yet mate, I'm just spending most of this year buying stuff to be honest. I will most likely attempting it around winter time. Once the wire tuck is done and the new inlet if fitted and running ok I'm hoping for around 400bhp @9psi with that. (hopfully this will be done in the next 4-6 weeks) Then If all goes good I will purchase a TT head gasket along with the pistons, injectors and a 6speed and so on. I really want a syvecs as I know it will be alot safer for me but it's going to take quite a lot of saving for all that. But if all goes well ill start on the engine become winter and I havnt got a clue how long it will be off the road for as I will be learning as I go :-/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noz Posted April 5, 2012 Share Posted April 5, 2012 (edited) True it will be a lot of playing by ear mate, it's a case of while the block is apart I may aswell replace them unless they look to be absolutely mint + if I want to push further power wise saves me ripping it apart again, iirc didn't David Bjork run 1k+ through Eagle rods? Oh i forgot ACL bearings off the list too I'm hoping turbo choice isn't too big or laggy from what i've seen of it in the states it should have a good compromise of power and spool with plenty of headroom should i wish to go higher (i'm not looking for out and out response otherwise i'd have gone for the S362). Depends what your power goal is. I would think you would be fine up to 700bhp with the s362 unless your going for more than that. Eagle rods may run over 1k but unless your running 1k do you need them? Not yet mate, I'm just spending most of this year buying stuff to be honest. I will most likely attempting it around winter time. Once the wire tuck is done and the new inlet if fitted and running ok I'm hoping for around 400bhp @9psi with that. (hopfully this will be done in the next 4-6 weeks) Then If all goes good I will purchase a TT head gasket along with the pistons, injectors and a 6speed and so on. I really want a syvecs as I know it will be alot safer for me but it's going to take quite a lot of saving for all that. But if all goes well ill start on the engine become winter and I havnt got a clue how long it will be off the road for as I will be learning as I go :-/ Why go syvecs? They are other ECU's out there. Dont get me wrong the product is awesome but for the cost us NA owners need to watch the pennies. Jamie the FFIM won't net you any more horse power then the current design. You need to sort your map, fueling and ignition to get 400bhp, your intake will handle it. I would sort that out before you start trying to change the intake to get more power, as your current intake design will get that easily already. jekyl runs near 500 with the overhead intake (i believe) but people have run overhead intakes for a long time. The only reason I believe the FFIM will improve performance over the overhead design is through heat soak. Your thoughts would be great here mate as I'd love the FFIM and any reasons I can justify it to my bank would be great How come your going with a TT headgasket and TT pistons? Your end up with a lower compression than a TT, and they don't have compression issues over 1k with an 8.5:1. JamieP has over 1k and is actually increasing his ratio I believe he was having the head skimmed I think so that's raising from 8.5:1 to even higher so going to 8.0:1 confuses me Would you not be best to stay with stock HG if your lowering CR with pistons, and run a 9.1:1 which is close to what LeeP has, he has a high comp big twin set up I think (memory dying). 9.#:1 That's good for some serious power there, no need to drop to what I think is around 8.0:1, lower than the TT ratio due to the head design. Just my thoughts I could end up blowing my engine so don't listen to my waffle lol. Think TT HG drops the CR to 9.2, pistons to 9.1, both is 8.0:1. Too low for anything less than 1000hp even more maybe? Edited April 5, 2012 by Noz (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FOSTA Posted April 5, 2012 Author Share Posted April 5, 2012 Depends what your power goal is. I would think you would be fine up to 700bhp with the s362 unless your going for more than that. Eagle rods may run over 1k but unless your running 1k do you need them? Why go syvecs? They are other ECU's out there. Dont get me wrong the product is awesome but for the cost us NA owners need to watch the pennies. Jamie the FFIM won't net you any more horse power then the current design. You need to sort your map, fueling and ignition to get 400bhp, your intake will handle it. I would sort that out before you start trying to change the intake to get more power, as your current intake design will get that easily already. jekyl runs near 500 with the overhead intake (i believe) but people have run overhead intakes for a long time. The only reason I believe the FFIM will improve performance over the overhead design is through heat soak. Your thoughts would be great here mate as I'd love the FFIM and any reasons I can justify it to my bank would be great How come your going with a TT headgasket and TT pistons? Your end up with a lower compression than a TT, and they don't have compression issues over 1k with an 8.5:1. JamieP has over 1k and is actually increasing his ratio I believe he was having the head skimmed I think so that's raising from 8.5:1 to even higher so going to 8.0:1 confuses me Would you not be best to stay with stock HG if your lowering CR with pistons, and run a 9.1:1 which is close to what LeeP has, he has a high comp big twin set up I think (memory dying). 9.#:1 That's good for some serious power there, no need to drop to what I think is around 8.0:1, lower than the TT ratio due to the head design. Just my thoughts I could end up blowing my engine so don't listen to my waffle lol. Think TT HG drops the CR to 9.2, pistons to 9.1, both is 8.0:1. Too low for anything less than 1000hp even more maybe? To be honest mate I havent spent much time looking into it yet as I've been working on the 400bhp setup. There is a member on here called David user name :tkddav3 he is running 581bhp on the same setup I want to go TT HG, TT PISTONS , Syvecs (for safety) and FFIM. Im aiming for around 550-600bhp so anywhere inbetween will make me a very happy bunny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan_Turism0 Posted April 5, 2012 Share Posted April 5, 2012 Depends what your power goal is. I would think you would be fine up to 700bhp with the s362 unless your going for more than that. Eagle rods may run over 1k but unless your running 1k do you need them? Why go syvecs? They are other ECU's out there. Dont get me wrong the product is awesome but for the cost us NA owners need to watch the pennies. Well my innitial power goal is 600whp, my other option is the S366 Batmowheel which again should give me a nice compromise. I'm not 100% set on the syvecs however i think given the build cost has been thrown out the window really , i'm trying to figure out clutch options...has anyone run the WOTM clutches before? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noz Posted April 5, 2012 Share Posted April 5, 2012 (edited) 600whp will probably need the 66. Either of them should be a beast going on dyno prints I've ever seen. Jamie I've spoken to Dave, I wasn't aware he had a TT HG? I know his has CoP. Either way mate, that compression is not required for 600bhp you can use the stock HG. You need bigger injectors from stock and everything else running fine to see 400bhp The FFIM won't net you anymore power goal mate remember that or your be disappointed. Strange how we are all aiming for 600bhp or whp lol. The race is on! Edited April 5, 2012 by Noz (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan_Turism0 Posted April 5, 2012 Share Posted April 5, 2012 (edited) my main reason for going FFIM is so I can run GTE cam covers and tidy the bay up a lot Yeah Noz i'm thinking either S366 or S372, i know there's a big difference in terms of size however from the dyno prints i've seen the 372 makes a decent amount of power fairly early and gives me headroom should i wish to go further and if i get the Batmowheel it will greater help with spool, S372 Batmowheel with a .90AR divided housing Edited April 5, 2012 by Dan_Turism0 (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FOSTA Posted April 5, 2012 Author Share Posted April 5, 2012 600whp will probably need the 66. Either of them should be a beast going on dyno prints I've ever seen. Jamie I've spoken to Dave, I wasn't aware he had a TT HG? I know his has CoP. Either way mate, that compression is not required for 600bhp you can use the stock HG. You need bigger injectors from stock and everything else running fine to see 400bhp The FFIM won't net you anymore power goal mate remember that or your be disappointed. Strange how we are all aiming for 600bhp or whp lol. The race is on! Yeah I understand with the ffim mate, that's just to tidy things up and make servicing Easyer. I've got everything to get started now apart from a longer autobox pressure cable that connects to the throttle but I think I'll get that sorted once I have the ffim fitted A few sneak pics : After abit of polishing : And I started to polish the TT covers: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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