Nodalmighty Posted January 3, 2012 Share Posted January 3, 2012 I have a TT Autobox and I'm getting a NA Auto on Saturday, will the TT auto be a straight swap for the NA Auto? Are these boxes the same or is the TT one uprated? I have a feeling the rear flange on the TT box is different to the NA one, are the flanges a straight swap or do I need to find the front half of a TT prop? Lyndon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted January 3, 2012 Share Posted January 3, 2012 (edited) I've fitted a T.T. auto into my N/A auto. Click here for "A343/0E Hybrid" The ratios are the same, nevertheless, the T.T. box has 2 more clutch-plates and can take 500-bhpftlbish. Which is 200-ish more than the N/A box. Can be fitted to N/A using T.T. auto prop and T.T. diff. Alternatively, use T.T. auto prop and change the flange on the 4.083 N/A diff for a larger T.T. version. T.T. Bell-housing, torque-converter, flex-plate, rear-mount and fluid-pipes are different to N/A. T.T. flavoured components must be used. N/A T.T. transmission control is different, the N/A box has 3 solenoids yet the T.T. has 5. However, the N/A valve-body and loom are a straight swap into the TT box. The N/A line-pressure control-cable mounts in place of a blank on the TT box. The N/A ECU and line pressure control cable then controls the T.T. auto transmission. Alternatively, use a Suprastick ECU and have flappy-paddle manualised gear-changes too. Other than needing a 6MT hole tapping into the blank on top of the T.T. bell-housing to mount the line-pressure control-cable and making a small tag to locate the T.T. dipstick onto the N/A inlet manifold. It's a plug&play upgrade, for the 'brave'. Edited January 4, 2012 by David P (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 Like my Jewish mate who can't speak without waving his hands all about, are you incapable of typing without using dozens of smilies? I once challenged him to spend an evening in the pub without any hand gestures, and he failed miserably, would you be up for a challenge David? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 (edited) Like my Jewish mate who can't speak without waving his hands all about, are you incapable of typing without using dozens of smilies? I once challenged him to spend an evening in the pub without any hand gestures, and he failed miserably, would you be up for a challenge David? I like my 'Oompa Loompa's', but here's a 'kosher' version, especially for you. I've fitted a T.T. auto transmission into my N/A auto. Click here for "A343/0E Hybrid" The ratios are the same, nevertheless, the T.T. box has 2 more clutch-plates and can take 500-bhpftlbish, which is 200-ish more than the N/A box. Can be fitted to N/A using T.T. auto prop and T.T. diff. Alternatively, use T.T. auto prop and change the flange on the 4.083 N/A diff for a larger T.T. version. T.T. Bell-housing, torque-converter, flex-plate, rear-mount and fluid-pipes are different to N/A, T.T. components must be used. N/A T.T. transmission control is different, the N/A box has 3 solenoids yet the T.T. has 5, however, the N/A valve-body and loom are a straight swap into the TT box. The N/A line-pressure control-cable mounts in place of a blank on the TT box allowing the N/A ECU and line pressure control cable then controls the T.T. auto transmission. Alternatively, use a Suprastick ECU and have flappy-paddle manualised gear-changes too. Other than needing a 6MT hole tapping into the blank on top of the T.T. bell-housing to mount the line-pressure control-cable and making a small tag to locate the T.T. dipstick onto the N/A inlet manifold it's a plug&play upgrade'. Edited January 5, 2012 by David P (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 My God, he's capable of cogent text after all... Well done Sir! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nodalmighty Posted January 5, 2012 Author Share Posted January 5, 2012 (edited) I have the TC and bell housing. I hopefully have access to a TT auto Diff and Prop. Just need to extend the cooler pipes and get a TT solenoid plug end and re pin it then as the whole purpose of this exercise is so I can finally develop a gearbox controller for the supra. Cheers for the info. What is the difference on the Flex Plate (ring gear?), can the NA one be used with a TT converter ? Lyndon. Edited January 5, 2012 by Nodalmighty (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted January 5, 2012 Share Posted January 5, 2012 (edited) Hole spacings for torque converter are different, T.T. flex-plate must be used, be careful when fitting because it's very easy to get the wrong way around. (I have a T.T. flex-plate if you need one) T.T. AT4 A343E fluid pipes are 40mm longer than N/A A340E, but alternatively, you could use N/A pipes with longer hoses on the ends but the mounting bracket would need 'adjustment'. You won't need any T.T. plugs/sockets because the electrics are all N/A. Every last little detail you need to know is given in the post and links. Why do you need a stronger box, are you planning N/A-T? Edited January 5, 2012 by David P (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nodalmighty Posted January 5, 2012 Author Share Posted January 5, 2012 (edited) Hole spacings for torque converter are different, T.T. flex-plate must be used, be careful when fitting because it's very easy to get the wrong way around. (I have a T.T. flex-plate if you need one) T.T. AT4 A343E fluid pipes are 40mm longer than N/A A340E, but alternatively, you could use N/A pipes with longer hoses on the ends but the mounting bracket would need 'adjustment'. You won't need any T.T. plugs/sockets because the electrics are all N/A. Every last little detail you need to know is given in the post and links. Why do you need a stronger box, are you planning N/A-T? I'll be retaining the 5 solenoid set-up on mine. I might fit a single at some point in the future, Just want the TT box installed for ECU development really. I might just take you up on the flex plate offer, how much and do I need to change the started motor to a TT one? Edited January 5, 2012 by Nodalmighty (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted January 5, 2012 Share Posted January 5, 2012 (edited) Keep the N/A starter motor, it's a stronger unit than the T.T. version because of the higher N/A 10:1 compression. If you use the T.T. A343E 5 solenoid control, let us know how you did it. Edited January 5, 2012 by David P (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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