JamieP Posted December 30, 2011 Share Posted December 30, 2011 Im doing some jobs on the car and while its in the air i thought id give the underside a clean up. How does waxoyl dry? looks like grease in the tin, does it dry hard? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tooquicktostop Posted December 30, 2011 Share Posted December 30, 2011 Im doing some jobs on the car and while its in the air i thought id give the underside a clean up. How does waxoyl dry? looks like grease in the tin, does it dry hard? Looks like that anti slip paint they put on lamp posts etc, a dull textured finish Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monsween Posted December 30, 2011 Share Posted December 30, 2011 Not exactly stiff but it does dry hard and won't come off to the touch. I kinda think it's like dry putty when it's done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieP Posted December 30, 2011 Author Share Posted December 30, 2011 Just reading a thread via a google search, some say it stays wet for years, dont like the sound of that, maybe its not the stuff for me. http://www.mbclub.co.uk/forums/bodywork/34506-waxoyl-drying-time.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pudsey Posted December 30, 2011 Share Posted December 30, 2011 Im doing some jobs on the car and while its in the air i thought id give the underside a clean up. How does waxoyl dry? looks like grease in the tin, does it dry hard? You normally need to thin the product out a fair bit, if you want any hope of spraying it. When I applied it thoroughly to my old car I used an old alloy wheel cleaner gun, and just kept refilling that to spray the product on worked a treat. The product doesn't go off completely, and acts as an active enzime self sealing itself too. I went on to use the underseal with added Wax Oil, which went on like a 'hot knife through butter' (silky smooth - loverly stuff to apply and quick too). This version does go off nicely and will be dry to the touch after a few days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieP Posted December 30, 2011 Author Share Posted December 30, 2011 You normally need to thin the product out a fair bit, if you want any hope of spraying it. When I applied it thoroughly to my old car I used an old alloy wheel cleaner gun, and just kept refilling that to spray the product on worked a treat. The product doesn't go off completely, and acts as an active enzime self sealing itself too. I went on to use the underseal with added Wax Oil, which went on like a 'hot knife through butter' (silky smooth - loverly stuff to apply and quick too). This version does go off nicely and will be dry to the touch after a few days. Just looked and thats the stuff i bought, Hammerite underbody seal with added waxoyl, black tins. Sounds like it might be ok then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pudsey Posted December 30, 2011 Share Posted December 30, 2011 Just looked and thats the stuff i bought, Hammerite underbody seal with added waxoyl, black tins. Sounds like it might be ok then. Yeah thats the stuff! If I ever need to top mine up, I would go straight for that having used it previously. Just perhaps use the Wax Oil in a spray for inside the inner sills etc, where you can't get too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigbloodyturbo Posted December 30, 2011 Share Posted December 30, 2011 Does the hammerite underbody stuff come in a spraycan or do you paint it on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieP Posted December 30, 2011 Author Share Posted December 30, 2011 Yeah thats the stuff! If I ever need to top mine up, I would go straight for that having used it previously. Just perhaps use the Wax Oil in a spray for inside the inner sills etc, where you can't get too. Good idea, Im going to start on it monday, not going back to work till the 9th. Does the hammerite underbody stuff come in a spraycan or do you paint it on? Yeah, i bought 3 rattle cans and a big tin of the paint on stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz1 Posted December 30, 2011 Share Posted December 30, 2011 I used Panel heater to de-grease mine, I brushed two tins on as you get more coats. Spraying the product on was a mess for me, use brush . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted December 30, 2011 Share Posted December 30, 2011 Dinitrol. Waxoyl is very second best, greasy, smelly and, IMHO, not all it's cracked up to be. It stays greasy and viscous, which is what the makers, (who used to be Finnigans, maybe still are), expected and claimed, as they said it was self healing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyson Posted December 31, 2011 Share Posted December 31, 2011 Dinitrol. Waxoyl is very second best, greasy, smelly and, IMHO, not all it's cracked up to be. It stays greasy and viscous, which is what the makers, (who used to be Finnigans, maybe still are), expected and claimed, as they said it was self sealing. How much does it cost to have your car done with Dinitrol? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jagman Posted December 31, 2011 Share Posted December 31, 2011 Dinitrol AV8. Works a treat but a sod to get out of your hair , don't know price for a tin (we use it at work) probably expensive as it is good . Wet it leeches into gaps ,dry its a hard shell. A coat on shocks and they will never corrode. Only thing is the colour a brown which at a glance looks odd. In summary awesome diy product. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jagman Posted December 31, 2011 Share Posted December 31, 2011 Dinitrol AV8. Works a treat but a sod to get out of your hair , don't know price for a tin (we use it at work) probably expensive as it is good . Wet it leeches into gaps ,dry its a hard shell. A coat on shocks and they will never corrode. Only thing is the colour a brown which at a glance looks odd. In summary awesome diy product. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Rsand85 Posted December 31, 2011 Share Posted December 31, 2011 i used waxoil on my MR2 never again!!it does form a skin but never dries 100% it makes a mess of you every time you go under the car and more importantly it traps the damp between the oil and the metalwork.Needless to say this is not good caused more rust than it stopped!!other products may be better i certainly wouldn't use waxoil though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieP Posted December 31, 2011 Author Share Posted December 31, 2011 Just did the one rear arch for now, if that drys well im gonna do eveything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supra matt Posted December 31, 2011 Share Posted December 31, 2011 The best stuff to use is 3m stone chip dries and can be over painted . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricky49 Posted December 31, 2011 Share Posted December 31, 2011 Jamie did you clean the arch up first or just whack it on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieP Posted December 31, 2011 Author Share Posted December 31, 2011 Jamie did you clean the arch up first or just whack it on. I wire brushed off about 2 grands worth of tyres ive burnt out over the years Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Abz Posted December 31, 2011 Share Posted December 31, 2011 I wire brushed off about 2 grands worth of tyres ive burnt out over the years That is signature quote worthy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh Posted December 31, 2011 Share Posted December 31, 2011 I wire brushed off about 2 grands worth of tyres ive burnt out over the years Pics? Looks good. Mine looks pretty much new underneath, it looks to have been undersealed at some point before though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieP Posted December 31, 2011 Author Share Posted December 31, 2011 Pics? Looks good. Mine looks pretty much new underneath, it looks to have been undersealed at some point before though. Yeah mine has been done before i owned it, its looks very clean under the car but whiles the prop and exhaust are off i may aswell give it a once over. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh Posted December 31, 2011 Share Posted December 31, 2011 Yeah mine has been done before i owned it, its looks very clean under the car but whiles the prop and exhaust are off i may aswell give it a once over. Definitely. I'd like to do mine again. How easy do you reckon it'd be to get the damage out of your exhaust, as mine has a "crease" in it since I bought it and it looks a lot like the damage on yours. Not sure if the fact mine's stainless makes much difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieP Posted December 31, 2011 Author Share Posted December 31, 2011 Definitely. I'd like to do mine again. How easy do you reckon it'd be to get the damage out of your exhaust, as mine has a "crease" in it since I bought it and it looks a lot like the damage on yours. Not sure if the fact mine's stainless makes much difference. Should be easy enough to push out, if not ive got some sheet titanium in the garage, they can cut the damage out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattP Posted December 31, 2011 Share Posted December 31, 2011 I used wax oil on both my mr2 and supra for the inner sills and bits you cant get too it is pretty damn good although what you say about it not going off is true and it can get messy if applied to thick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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