EMPEROR Posted December 30, 2011 Share Posted December 30, 2011 So my DBW is not working. Tried 2 different Throttle Bodies and 2 different ECUs and still the same problem. No 12V on the throttle valve motor. I get 0.75V instead. The wires are directly going from the throttle valve motor to the ECU. Checked the wires and they are OK. The car is 98 SZR with VVTi TT engine swap. If anyone has any idea, I would really appreciate it, as I'm out of ideas already... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted December 30, 2011 Share Posted December 30, 2011 All I can think of is to contact "Jody T" as he has the exact setup you are going for so he may be able to advise? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neil Posted December 30, 2011 Share Posted December 30, 2011 hi are you using the standed flyby wire throtle body if so you need to do a blue wire goin in to the fuse box one a sepret fuse but jody t will explane it better than me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EMPEROR Posted December 30, 2011 Author Share Posted December 30, 2011 (edited) Hahaha I knew it would be something silly Thanks to Jody T, I found out I should power up the Blue-Red (ECTS supply) wire on the Upper Fusebox Connector. It makes sense, since the traction uses the throttle valve, so it seems you have to power the traction module, to power the throttle motor. The funny part is that I have redone the whole fusebox so it will be the same as TT one, just didn't put a fuse for the traction (but have made a fuse bed for it ), as I have read somewhere that if you take the traction fuse out, it will act the same as in snow mode... Seems it's not true at all... So thank you Jody! And thank you Scott and Neil for pointing Jody out Have a happy new year all! Edited December 31, 2011 by EMPEROR (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lude Posted December 30, 2011 Share Posted December 30, 2011 are there any side effects of having the tracion fuse removed then? ive removed mine 2 years ago, as i was sick of turning it off each time start the car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EMPEROR Posted December 30, 2011 Author Share Posted December 30, 2011 Well yes, on a VVTi TT the throttle body will stop working On a non-VVTi I have no idea... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted December 31, 2011 Share Posted December 31, 2011 I am envious of your determination to get this working when an after-market ECU would make things a lot simpler. I am also very grateful of you sharing the wiring info in one of the other sections of the forum. I hope you get it sorted and start to enjoy the car! Good luck, awesome perseverance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JODY T Posted December 31, 2011 Share Posted December 31, 2011 Funny thing is on a converted szr you won't have any traction control anyway lol best of both worlds.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JODY T Posted December 31, 2011 Share Posted December 31, 2011 The conversion is basically exactly the same as a normal tt swap, just with the exception of the one extra wire talked about above.. The only pita for me was that it took me two weeks of looking at diagrams etc to work it all out lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EMPEROR Posted March 23, 2012 Author Share Posted March 23, 2012 O.M.G. ... I am so damn stupid... in the end, the problem was wrong TPS!!! When I purchased the new one, I just opened toyodiy, selected Japan, 98, Supra, RZ... then wrote throttle position and opened the first link (which actually is the TPS for NA!!!!!!) and there is another throttle position sensor for EFI (which apparently is the TT)... The pinout is totally different, so is the inside of the sensor... And I fought with this problems for months... checking, double checking, triple checking all the wirings, ECUs, Throttle Bodies, etc etc etc..................... So next when you take a new TPS (the correct one) is to take voltmeter and connect to VTA1 (pin 2) and GND (Battery negative for instance). Turn the ignition key to ON position, without igniting. You should rotate the TPS till you get 0.65-0.75V on cold engine (0.6-0.7V on warm engine) to calibrate it. Then off the key, then to ON position again without igniting, pressing the acceleration pedal for 30-60 seconds for the ECU to adapt to the new TPS. Then off the key and the ignite... I feel almost a VVTi guru already And insanely stupid at the same time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JODY T Posted March 23, 2012 Share Posted March 23, 2012 Well done! Could never understand why yours didn't work.. Glad you got to the bottom of it.. Result Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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