Noz Posted December 22, 2011 Author Share Posted December 22, 2011 Yes, Ryan tuned it after the installation and said it wasn ignition related, I spoke to my local mechanic he said he had a similiar issue with an injector seat once causing the same symptoms. The first three cylinders only being affected I'm hoping it's something simply, I'm going to take the dizzy off tonight and check it out and have a look at the rotor arm, maybe buy a new one depending on how it looks. Is there anything in the dizzy apart from the rotorarm that could become damaged through water getting in? I'm just going to put it back together and wait till new year and book in it somewhere at that point, I'm stumped for solutions and don't have the equipment. Shame you don't live closer Chris I'd be up tomorrow! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barneybrendan Posted December 22, 2011 Share Posted December 22, 2011 the tip of the rotor arm does burn out,ive had 2 like that now.i had issues with missfire when i first started the engine on mine.trial and error first before you start spending needless money on garages. dizzy complete coil ignitor plugs these things you can try first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noz Posted December 22, 2011 Author Share Posted December 22, 2011 Im gonna check the dizzy tonight, put it back together, I'll pop down after Xmas mate and if we have no luck Ill book it into a garage who does ECU road tuning as they have some other fancy gear as well hopefully they can give me an idea. Just dont want to spend any extra money bad times, the chamber definitely isn't firing right though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FOSTA Posted December 22, 2011 Share Posted December 22, 2011 Its been fine until I had a leak from the throttle body, I always assumed it would be lead or spark related. I will change the leads and clean the plugs up, I'm using Spark Plugs: BKR7E's (6097) should I still be using 1.1mm gap as recommended for NA or should I reduce the gap? I'll try and change the coil Martin if these ideas don't work. Then I'll try the rotor arm. i made my gap .032 not sure if thats the same as 1.1mm but if it is then it works fine with mine at 7psi ;-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noz Posted December 23, 2011 Author Share Posted December 23, 2011 The gap seems alright mate, it's getting worse as it's barely drivable at the moment it seriously doesn't like boost. I've booked the car in for a check up on the 28th. I was hoping to grab some parts from Brendan, but at this point I feel I could waste even more time on fault finding with a lack of equipment so feel the best thing to do is get it checked out but someone who knows. I'm going to drop it in with the TJHmotorsport.com guys, they have lots of goodies so hoping the worst case scenario is they can tell me what's wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AGB Posted December 23, 2011 Share Posted December 23, 2011 Have you tested the compression yet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noz Posted December 23, 2011 Author Share Posted December 23, 2011 I've never done that before, nor have the knowledge of what's required for it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimmy James Posted December 23, 2011 Share Posted December 23, 2011 I've never done that before, nor have the knowledge of what's required for it Buy a compression tester and screw into each sparkplug hole and get a buddy to crank the engine over for 5 secs or so... Simples. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noz Posted January 5, 2012 Author Share Posted January 5, 2012 Car is now fixed, just took it for a drive, never felt better or stronger. Pulls like a train, couldn't be happier. Car had a flat battery last night, and this morning was completely dead. Since being recharged, it runs like a dream. The garage are surprised the difference, and said it runs fine.. Since it never ran as smooth as it should since I collected the car, I was unsure if they knew how well it should of been running as the problem got worse since collecting the car. The problem got worse from one day to the next, and problems were still unknown. Because when the car pulled 373hp but not smoothly, now the traction feels aweful. I've always known first gear was an issue, but now second gear loses itself fairly easy, like first without a turbo on a damp day. I can imagine on a slightly damp day any gear would now be an issue. Thanks to everyone who has sent me parts to try and given me advice. At this moment in time, it seems the most likely culprit was the stock ECU playing about when I drove 250 miles with a slight water leak on the HT leads, recording an error and not correctly itself once the water had been removed. The engine was giving low emissions, and running too lean. Since it was running sweet, the emissions have gone up, showing the engine is now rich and running right. Uk front brakes.. then get this water meth business on the go... HAPPY NOZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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