Velociraptor Posted December 16, 2011 Share Posted December 16, 2011 Hey guys, sorry if this has been asked before but couldn't find an answer anywhere. Basically my cars central locking won't work, my fob works fine with the red light coming on (I have check with both fobs) so I'm having to unlock the doors manually with the key at the moment. The red security light located at the top right of the dash always stays on?? Also the engine will start and run fine. Has this happened to anyone else before? Hoping someone can help me out here....? Velociraptor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwilkinson Posted December 16, 2011 Share Posted December 16, 2011 If it's only just started happening with the wet and cold I would think it's the good old door control module. If your pre facelift these often fail in the cold. Facelift or thereabouts models have a different colour unit which due to age if anything seems to work better. Happened on and off on my car for a few years in cold weather. I tested my alarm and door switches till I was blue in the face. Got a replacement unit from Keron and problem sorted. I think over time they suffer from dry solder. Door control module is in the left of the dash of the lower glove box. Quite easy to do. Took me about 15 mins to change. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Velociraptor Posted December 16, 2011 Author Share Posted December 16, 2011 Thanks mate, will check it out and get a new one ordered Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ripped_fear Posted December 16, 2011 Share Posted December 16, 2011 mine did this last year, i looked on here and a couple of peole said about the mechanism in the door, the box behind the dash, or just because it has got cold/damp i just drove the car for a while with the heater pumping out full blast to dry it out and never had the problem since, might be worth a shot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keron Posted December 19, 2011 Share Posted December 19, 2011 Think you will see a lot more of these posts soon! I could not get enough of these last year....changed one today too! I have some in if needed...Cdl ecu located in the pass side of the dash board, towards the door next to the lower glove box, has one plug going to it, box is about the size of a 20 fag box...red or blue in colour.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Samurai 20V Posted December 19, 2011 Share Posted December 19, 2011 I have the same issue when it rains.. After a run it starts working again.. The range is pretty poor though, only works with the key next to the drivers window. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwilkinson Posted December 19, 2011 Share Posted December 19, 2011 I have the same issue when it rains.. After a run it starts working again.. The range is pretty poor though, only works with the key next to the drivers window. As above change the control module. I also have a friends car that started playing up and this solved his problem too. Mine use to do the same as many people's, that is it would work again after drying/warming up. Having change the unit it's no longer an issue at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Posted December 19, 2011 Share Posted December 19, 2011 Think you will see a lot more of these posts soon! I could not get enough of these last year....changed one today too! I have some in if needed...Cdl ecu located in the pass side of the dash board, towards the door next to the lower glove box, has one plug going to it, box is about the size of a 20 fag box...red or blue in colour.... How much do you sell these for out of interest Keron? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supra Gaz Posted December 19, 2011 Share Posted December 19, 2011 I changed mine myself on my Silver supra, i managed to make it a 3 hour job when it should have taken 20 minutes. They often just start working again themselves mate, the damp etc gets in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Samurai 20V Posted December 19, 2011 Share Posted December 19, 2011 As above change the control module. I also have a friends car that started playing up and this solved his problem too. Mine use to do the same as many people's, that is it would work again after drying/warming up. Having change the unit it's no longer an issue at all. Thks mate.. Any idea on the p/number or cost? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwilkinson Posted December 19, 2011 Share Posted December 19, 2011 Thks mate.. Any idea on the p/number or cost? Speak to Keron about some he has. I can't remember which colour unit was the newer, I think it was a blue one. No idea about the part number or getting this new from Mr T. No doubt it would be silly expensive? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Velociraptor Posted December 19, 2011 Author Share Posted December 19, 2011 Thanks guys, after using the car a few times with the heaters on I've got no where so I'm thinking a new control module is the way forward. Does anyone know if its one of these two in the picture? Keron I will give you a buzz tomorrow for a new one mate (hoping you have one left ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Samurai 20V Posted December 20, 2011 Share Posted December 20, 2011 Speak to Keron about some he has. I can't remember which colour unit was the newer, I think it was a blue one. No idea about the part number or getting this new from Mr T. No doubt it would be silly expensive? Will do..Thks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Velociraptor Posted December 20, 2011 Author Share Posted December 20, 2011 Just an update for everyone my Central locking/Fob and security light problem following the advice this I found on here... SUBJECT: TOYOTA 5000 THEFT DETERRENT SYSTEM STARTING VEHICLES WITH A FLAT BATTERY Guidance If you wish to jump start a vehicle ( or reconnect a fully charged battery ) to a vehicle which is fitted with a Toyota 5000 Theft deterrent system, the following procedure should be followed. This should prevent the remote control handsets locking out . Before disconnecting the battery 1) Turn off the siren with the master key. The siren has its own Ni-Cad Battery which will cause it to sound when the vehicle battery is disconnected Unless it is switched off. 2) Remove the DOME Fuse. This is located under the bonnet in the main junction box. 3) Disconnect and Remove the battery. When Re-connecting the battery . 1) Ensure the siren is turned off with the master key . 2) Ensure DOME Fuse is removed . 3) Refit the battery and reconnect the terminals correctly. 4) Turn on the ignition . 5) Insert the DOME Fuse. 6) Turn off the ignition The Hazard lights should now be flashing 7) Cancel the alarm using the remote control handset . The indicator lights should stop flashing . It may be necessary to hold the Black left hand button down for up to 15 seconds (15 seconds means 15 seconds or longer ) – until the car Locks or Unlocks itself 8) You should now be able to start the engine. N.B. Remember to turn on the siren with the master key. (Note : if the system should not respond to the remote controls check for re-synchronisation . If this is not successful, the following procedure must be followed: With the positive terminal of the battery connected and the negative terminal disconnected . 1) Turn Ignition on 2) Reconnect the negative terminal of the battery 3) Turn the ignition off 4) Press the left hand black button of the remote controll for 15 seconds To re synchronise. The other remote if availible may also require re synchronisation. Happy days Although my traction control button and spoiler down button don't want to work very often?? Also the Auto box Letters at the bottom of the lever don't like to light up very often either?? Dodgy connection I'm guessing?? Anyone else had these problems? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwilkinson Posted December 20, 2011 Share Posted December 20, 2011 I hope you have resolve your issues. But for reference, if nothing else, here are some photographs from when I did mine in the snow a few years back. To allow ease of access I removed the top and bottom glove boxes. This is the inner left nearside dash. You can see the connector for the control module loose. This is the box itself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Velociraptor Posted December 21, 2011 Author Share Posted December 21, 2011 Cheers mate, I'm sure sometime (hopefully not to soon) I will need to change it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ripped_fear Posted December 22, 2011 Share Posted December 22, 2011 mine did this last year, i looked on here and a couple of peole said about the mechanism in the door, the box behind the dash, or just because it has got cold/damp i just drove the car for a while with the heater pumping out full blast to dry it out and never had the problem since, might be worth a shot. I would just like to add since the day I posted the above mine stopped working, so to 'Velociraptor!' I now hate you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Velociraptor Posted December 27, 2011 Author Share Posted December 27, 2011 I would just like to add since the day I posted the above mine stopped working, so to 'Velociraptor!' I now hate you. Haha sorry mate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pixelfill Posted January 3, 2012 Share Posted January 3, 2012 Out of interest, does this fault prevent the internal switch working too? Mine has started central locking but not central opening, from either the fob, or the internal switch. Or does this not sound like the same fault? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwilkinson Posted January 3, 2012 Share Posted January 3, 2012 Yes it can. I had intermittent issues with the fob and internal switches. Since changing the box all issues have gone. Of course it could just be the switches but I would change this first before the switch panel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pixelfill Posted January 3, 2012 Share Posted January 3, 2012 hmmm, bugger. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Velociraptor Posted January 3, 2012 Author Share Posted January 3, 2012 Does the red security light in the top right of the dash always stay on fella? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pixelfill Posted January 3, 2012 Share Posted January 3, 2012 Does the red security light in the top right of the dash always stay on fella? not sure - I'll check tomorrow. which light is it - though I guess if it's on I'll spot it straight away Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pixelfill Posted January 6, 2012 Share Posted January 6, 2012 Does the red security light in the top right of the dash always stay on fella? Nope - no warning lights on at all. Got a replacement ECU from Keron coming will see if that fixes it. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Velociraptor Posted January 7, 2012 Author Share Posted January 7, 2012 Sounds like it must be the ecu then, keep us informed if it solves it please chap, be good to know for future reference Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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