Lude Posted November 23, 2011 Share Posted November 23, 2011 ive got this diagram i have a leaky pump, and am replacing o ring (from resivour feed) - 44337A shaft seal main big gasket - 04445 (think?) the shaft seal, which parts are they? is it all of 44302H, 44312, 44312B, 44302G if someon could clarify the parts that would be great Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pedrosixfour Posted November 23, 2011 Share Posted November 23, 2011 The main oil seal in front of the vane pump is 90311-17007 which is 44302G in your diagram. The rest of the parts shouldn't need replacing provided they aren't damaged (the shaft) or noisy (the bearing). The bearing is 90363-17008, check it for any roughness, if it's suspect change it. The O ring on the suction port is 90301-11010 which is 44337A in the diagram. There are two more O rings located behind the vane pump, if you have the pump split anyway it would make sense to replace them. They are 90301-47001 & 90301-18007. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EMPEROR Posted November 23, 2011 Share Posted November 23, 2011 (edited) RING, O(FOR POWER STEERING SUCTION PORT) 90301‑11016 GASKET KIT, POWER STEERING PUMP 04446‑30120 (it's not 04445 mate, but 04446) SEAL, OIL, NO.2(FOR VANE PUMP HOUSING) 90311‑17007 (this might be included in the gasket kit above) RING, O(FOR PRESSURE PORT UNION) 90301‑19013 (this might be included in the gasket kit above) Edited November 23, 2011 by EMPEROR (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lude Posted November 23, 2011 Author Share Posted November 23, 2011 (edited) i do have a slight squeek, i think its going to be the bearing, as the aux belt is relativly new. the oil leak, im pritty sure its from the actual housing, the main part. as i have used oil resistant sealer around the top part where the oil feed is, and oil is still visable on the actual pump housing. the pump leaks a lot without even having the engine/pump in operation it leaks it is all around the pup housing on the side, where the large main gasket seals the 2 larger halfs of the pump Edited November 23, 2011 by Lude (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iky Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 The main oil seal in front of the vane pump is 90311-17007 which is 44302G in your diagram. The rest of the parts shouldn't need replacing provided they aren't damaged (the shaft) or noisy (the bearing). The bearing is 90363-17008, check it for any roughness, if it's suspect change it. The O ring on the suction port is 90301-11010 which is 44337A in the diagram. There are two more O rings located behind the vane pump, if you have the pump split anyway it would make sense to replace them. They are 90301-47001 & 90301-18007. RING, O(FOR POWER STEERING SUCTION PORT) 90301‑11016 GASKET KIT, POWER STEERING PUMP 04446‑30120 (it's not 04445 mate, but 04446) SEAL, OIL, NO.2(FOR VANE PUMP HOUSING) 90311‑17007 (this might be included in the gasket kit above) RING, O(FOR PRESSURE PORT UNION) 90301‑19013 (this might be included in the gasket kit above) Sorry to drag up a 2month old thread but does anyone know why these two part numbers are different? I need this o-ring but I'm unsure which one to order. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lude Posted January 24, 2012 Author Share Posted January 24, 2012 (edited) sorry i dont know that one, i paid £25 for the full gasket kit, there was only a few seals and gaskets, did think it came with a new bearing but it didnt. the little o ring workt perfect, once you have the old one off, and put the new one on you can tell the difference in them. the old one seems to shrink and doesnt seal it that well (rarther than splitting) the new one goes on easy, but then makes the suction port more difficult to put in (its not hard at all, you can just feel more re-sistance as the new o ring seals nicely) i split my whole pump and also put the new metal gasket which seperates the 2 halves of the pump together, however dont think there was any point in it. just the o ring seal should do the job. also when you do up the one 12mm nut dont overdo it, it only needs to be nipped up. if you overdue it, it lifts up the other seide of the suction port. (hard to explain) Edited January 24, 2012 by Lude (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iky Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 sorry i dont know that one, i paid £25 for the full gasket kit, there was only a few seals and gaskets, did think it came with a new bearing but it didnt. the little o ring workt perfect, once you have the old one off, and put the new one on you can tell the difference in them. the old one seems to shrink and doesnt seal it that way (rarther than splitting) the new one goes on easy, but then makes the suction port more difficult to put in (its not hard at all, you can feel more re-sistance as the new o ring seals nicely) i split my whole pump and also put the new metal gasket which seperates the 2 halves of the pump together, however dont think there was any point in it. just the o ring seal should do the job. also when you do up the one 12mm nut dont overdo it, it only needs to be nipped up. if you overdue it, it lifts up the other seide of the suction port. (hard to explain) Thanks for the advice Lude Is it a good idea to put some sort of grease/sealant on the o-ring ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lude Posted January 24, 2012 Author Share Posted January 24, 2012 (edited) Thanks for the advice Lude Is it a good idea to put some sort of grease/sealant on the o-ring ? i thaught this, i cleaned the port, nice and dry, then put oil proof selaer around it. when i put the pump back to the engine, it came off lol. oil is a bugger to seal. there was no need for it, as long as you put the o ring on properly its fine. i did mine last week, as had a leaky pump. i was beaming when put it all back together and it was all dry i thaught i had broken it tho as it took a few mins to bleed, remember when bleeding it, plenty of fluid in the resivour, then start the engine, make sure still plenty fluid in the res, then turn the steering wheel full lock each each side a few times, checking that the correct amount is in the resivour (there is a dipstick on the cap) it should quiet down after a few mins. you "should" bleed the pump with the both front wheels off the ground, as to releive stress from the pump Edited January 24, 2012 by Lude (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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