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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Na-t build


pjavon

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Thanks guys, driving around staring at the boost gauge is a bit of a killer though:(, I've had to park it in the garage and have a couple of beers to stop me playing:d

 

 

car's looking gorgous mate. that 2.5" or 3" intercooler piping?

 

It's 2.5'' mate, I have some 3'' but it was just to big. No pun intended;)

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OK guys i've got a base map to run the clutch in and check this are ok on the car before I go for mapping

The only problem I'm getting is a lot of over boost, as in I seen it fly up to nearly 15 psi once, it's got springs for 7.5psi!!!!

I've taken the wastegate off and it's obviously been leaking and I assume this could cause over boost?

I've re-fitted the wastegate with sealer but it's still exactly the same, well it's over boosting anyway. Obviously I only tried it once and it shot past 8-9 psi and seems no different. I also changed to a 6psi spring!!

This is how it looked when I took it off. By the way the valve pushes up and down freely enough with a hammer shaft so the spring and valve seem fine.

Also i haven't got a genuine map sensor on the emanage, could this cause these type of problems?

I just want to hopefully get it right before getting it mapped.

The car runs great and even the boost seems great if I could hold it back to 5-6 psi.

 

image

 

image

 

This is how it sounds with about 30% throttle so it doesn't over boost

[video=youtube;M77C0hJ0-7E]

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how are you plumbing it in mate ? where are you taking your boost pressure from and are you using a boost controller

 

I was using a manual boost controller Craig but I removed it out of the plumbing to remove it from the equation.

It's now plumbed in like picture A on page 7 of this so couldn't be simpler.

The boost gauge pressure readings are coming from the front of the intake and the map sensor from the rear mate, this seem OK?

I also have the BOV tee'd into the boost gauge vacuum hose, could this cause any problems?

 

image

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  • 4 weeks later...

OK i've had a few teething problems but most seem sorted now. The only problem now seems to be the MIL and orange engine light coming on sometimes when I floor it.

I've done the error codes and it say 52 which I believe is the front knock sensor.

I've read this can be caused by low octane rating fuel which I can check by filling up with optimax (I've only got regular shell in it at the moment) or similar and then trying but I was hoping some of you guys could tell me if this seems like it could be the case.

I've only got a base map on at the moment (from Ryan) so I'm also considering if it could be the timing which could be sorted out when I get it mapped properly.

It's only running at 5psi as advised at the moment as well.

Any thoughts/advise really appreciated?

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i would NOT boot it until you are fully mapped, i would of thought ryan would of left it with a base map with the timing backed way off anyway, but each car is different do you have a afr guage to see if you are running lean, but what ever dont boot it until mapping is done would hate to see all your hard work destroyed

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i would NOT boot it until you are fully mapped, i would of thought ryan would of left it with a base map with the timing backed way off anyway, but each car is different do you have a afr guage to see if you are running lean, but what ever dont boot it until mapping is done would hate to see all your hard work destroyed

 

Mmm, Ok fair point. I have an AFR gauge which is at around 10.5-10.9 when on full boost so hopefully thats OK. I thought the idea of a base map was to be sure it was running OK before I went for proper mapping.

 

Just been catching up with this, top work!!!

 

Thanks for the kind words:)

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Most definitely DO NOT "boot it" with a base map, and especially if the knock sensor is maybe up the creek. Check the wiring to the front knock sensor (nightmare with the loom in situ and the engine in, and the connector terminal contact finger itself. The sensors themselves can and do go faulty, usually because people haven't taken heed of the torque setting for screwing them into the block. They need and must have VERY little torque DO NOT Loctite them in either. Great work, it'll soon be 100% :)

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