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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Cold engine + hot outside = runs like crap until engine warm


Guest IrishJeff

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Guest IrishJeff

Hey guys I have an auto BPU 94 Supra TT and have been having this problem for the past few months. Let me try to explain...

 

When I start up the car with a cold engine and its hot outside it will usually stall on first try. 2nd try it fires up fine. Then, even after letting it idle for a couple of minutes, if the engine is still not at operating temp it will bog down terribly when I start to drive in 1st gear. I have trouble making it out of the parking lot as I can barely reach 2k rpm and it feels as if it will stall at any moment.

 

No matter how much throttle I give it the rpms barely climb but I hear boost build. Feels like I'm towing an elephant. After a minute or two of driving, once I reach close to operating temp suddenly I'm able to drive fine. As if it never happened. Pulls great, runs & idles smooth. Starting the car with a warm engine is fine too. If it is cool outside (I'm in South Florida so it never gets cold) I don't have this problem with a cold engine. Only when its quite hot out.

 

Any ideas on things I can look at? I've been trying to figure this out for months, and no one I've asked has a clue. I'm not trying to gun it out of the parking lot from a cold start or anything... I just want to be able to pull out into the road at speeds greater than 10mph. :blink:

 

Thanks!

Jeff

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Guest IrishJeff

I'm not certain but I believe there is NO smoke. Another weird detail I forgot is when the car is bogging down when slowing driving off, if I try to give it some more throttle to wake it up boost will build but the car doesn't go any faster, and sometimes the BOV will suddenly blow-off quickly without letting off the pedal. I'm talkin 1st gear 2k rpm. After some more feathering of the gas the car will start to act normal and let me rev higher.

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I'm not certain but I believe there is NO smoke. Another weird detail I forgot is when the car is bogging down when slowing driving off, if I try to give it some more throttle to wake it up boost will build but the car doesn't go any faster, and sometimes the BOV will suddenly blow-off quickly without letting off the pedal. I'm talkin 1st gear 2k rpm. After some more feathering of the gas the car will start to act normal and let me rev higher.

 

I would still put the new temp sender in it.

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Does it show the traction control warning light? Get the fault codes out of it, my bet is the TC control motor is holding the TC throttle butterfly closed when it shouldn't. If I am right send me a decent Guinness with a shamrock done on the head :) It could still conceivavbly be an ecu temp sender issue, but the cause of your issue in post #3 definitely sounds like the secondary (TC) butterfly is sticking partly shut.

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Guest IrishJeff

TC light does not come on (I usually turn it off when I start the car anyway). Not sure if it is TC related since the symptoms also include a rough start and terrible idle until warm.

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Does it show the traction control warning light? Get the fault codes out of it, my bet is the TC control motor is holding the TC throttle butterfly closed when it shouldn't. If I am right send me a decent Guinness with a shamrock done on the head :) It could still conceivavbly be an ecu temp sender issue, but the cause of your issue in post #3 definitely sounds like the secondary (TC) butterfly is sticking partly shut.

 

Thats pissabolity as well, top of the class CW.

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Remove the 4 screws holding the traction control throttle motor on to the throttle body, see if the geared wheel that drives the throttle turns slightly notchily, but easily. If it's stiff it has probably had water ingress and is knackered. You need to find the cause rather than just nail on new bits, that's the prerogative of main dealers with shelves full of parts to "try" ;)

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