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Manwithsupra's Racing Supra Project thread


ManwithSupra

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Personally, on a track car I would get a set of adjustable rose-jointed arms. On a road car, I would run new stockers. I would not run poly-bushes on the upper rear arms ever.

 

Well this was one of the options I was looking at mainly as I could benefit on the entire setup having it fully adjustable as it would suit my current setup perfectly (as everything else is now fully adjustable apart from the arms).

 

The thing is the known proven products like Ikeya are mega expensive and whilst I would love to spend £4k on a new set of suspension arms I cant justify that for the failure of a couple of bushes.. saying that spending out on new OEM is bad enough.

 

There are always the more unknown "brands" from Aus on eBay but as they are sooo much cheaper there must have been a quality break somewhere. (the replacement rose jointed upper arms on eBay are around £250 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TOYOTA-SUPRA-JZA80-REAR-UPPER-CAMBER-ARMS-/140965634280?)

 

I have been looking at the Wisefab rear suspension arm and hub carrier kit, I know that Wisefab are mainly to do with drifiting however they say that their rear kit is also good for circuit racing although I cant find anyone using them on circuit - non drift applications.

 

http://pics.driftworks.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/small_image/403x370/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/t/o/toyotarearthumb.jpg

 

Some more info - http://www.wisefab.com/uus/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=wisefab.tpl&product_id=16&category_id=7&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=18&lang=en

 

the thing is this comes out at around £1600 which is not bad considering..

Edited by ManwithSupra (see edit history)
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Maybve try and get in contact with the Super-pro drifter ( SATS Motorsport ) I believe he is running Wisefab rear arms, I know he is running the front arms. Maybe Ashley Willis can put you in contact

 

Yeah I will do but probably something for the future rather than now.

Although as I have to replace either the bushes or arms anyway (Which ever I decide) it maybe a good time to do it.

 

Hmmmm Decisions decisions...

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On a dedicated track car like mine, or indeed yours, I don't think a polybush upgrade can be seen as a bad decision when value for money is considered.

 

And now I've got a set of special bushes winging their way towards me to increase the caster and camber available on the front lower arms, a definite advantage over stock replacement arms.

 

Thats what I thought, on my last supra I had all the bushes changed to R2 Racing, the difference was incredible.

Yeah I saw your post with the offset bushes, I don't think I can wait as long as you have tbh which kinda puts me off.

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Driftworks sell those wisefab kits there is a video of it on a supra, I am going super pro its what Steve L used and he did time attack and euro salons I guess I am in no rush though on the wait as the car is not ready I am getting megan racing adjustable toe and traction arms, for me unless I was in a serious timed competition event spending 3-4k on arms is not worth it to gain probably a few extra seconds if lucky off a lap time

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Lol, I am now even more confused :)

 

To be honest mate you're not the only one!

 

I still can't even figure out how spherical bearings are an advantage when the upper control arm is bolted to the same rigid subframe in two different places.

 

I don't for one second suspect that I am right and Turtlehead, Toyota & for that matter Chris Wilson are wrong, I just can't envisage where this extra movement comes about, unless we are talking miniscule amounts.

 

And furthermore I can't see how rose-jointed upper arms would replicate this extra articulation that the OEM spherical bearings were apparently engineered for.

 

I understand how a single rose joint allows multi-planar movement but fix two of them to a control arm and then bolt that to the same rigid subframe surely then there is only movement on one plane?

 

Is there a paper I could read up on this perhaps?

Edited by pedrosixfour (see edit history)
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Driftworks sell those wisefab kits there is a video of it on a supra, I am going super pro its what Steve L used and he did time attack and euro salons I guess I am in no rush though on the wait as the car is not ready I am getting megan racing adjustable toe and traction arms, for me unless I was in a serious timed competition event spending 3-4k on arms is not worth it to gain probably a few extra seconds if lucky off a lap time

 

Yeah, I too saw that Steve ran standard arms and used poly bushes and with good results.

I actually believe it inspired me to get the R2 bushes for my last car, which again I remember being blown away after they were installed.

 

The thing is I have always thought of getting the best for the car as plainly put the car deserves it, however like you I am having trouble justifying spending that sort of cash for a full adjustable setup. I know getting fully adjustable arms it will ultimately make the car handle better, and I do like the idea of the Rear Wisefab kit as it replaces the stock setup entirely and is a fully adjustable setup, for well.. pretty descent money. It also seems to be proven product which is nice, but I think it will be something to consider in the future I think, possibly part of a winter project.

 

For the meantime though the car needs to have the top arm bushes replaced.

I think for now I will get the poly bushes for the rear top arms mainly to see if this was part of the cause of the vibration issues I had recently. I may as well as they are not expensive and will help with the diagnosis.

 

After all, even if this is not the best solution its still 100% better then it is now.

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I have just checked on Power flex website and they don't list the bushes for the top arm at all?? :blink::search:

I now guess it will have to be a entire new OEM arm or some fancy aftermarket one.

 

Superpro certainly do them mate, I know because I have them.

 

Superpro do most bushes for the car including front diff mounts, rear subframe mounts, steering rack mounts, as well as all the control arm bushes.

 

They're a good kit, I'd just buy them elsewhere from now on, that's all.

 

http://www.superpro.eu.com/

Edited by pedrosixfour (see edit history)
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Superpro certainly do them mate, I know because I have them.

 

Superpro do most bushes for the car including front diff mounts, rear subframe mounts, steering rack mounts, as well as all the control arm bushes.

 

They're a good kit, I'd just buy them elsewhere from now on, that's all.

 

http://www.superpro.eu.com/

 

Cheers mate, is it these ones I need for the upper rear arms?

SPF1922K

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Installed my balanced prop and new diff coupling last night, will do a road test in the coming days to see if its got rid of the vibration I have been getting. I also installed some of the DEI Reflect-a-Gold heat shield on the car last night on the areas which are exposed to high under bonnet temps.

 

This should aid keeping the charge temps down further.

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=185261&stc=1&d=1399547256

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=185260&stc=1&d=1399547256

164215_489911387750176_33438322_n.jpg

1069933_489911117750203_1917841506_n.jpg

Edited by ManwithSupra (see edit history)
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  • 3 weeks later...

OK so done a little bit of work on the car as I had some time spare.

Decided to get the return oil line sorted on the turbo as it was seeping oil.

 

Car as it was before I started removing parts :)

https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/164215_489911387750176_33438322_n.jpg

 

Intercooler and Boost pipe work now removed, here you can get to see how the V-Mount is positioned along with the ducting.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc1/1005783_495627680511880_2069171341_n.jpg

 

Started to unbolt the Turbo from the manifold, this took a little bit of time as there is pretty much no room to get to the rear bolts, in the end it took around an hour to get it off...

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/935100_495627953845186_1220554282_n.jpg

 

One of the car with the turbo removed

https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/67455_495628173845164_1536580609_n.jpg

 

This shot shows the oil saturation on the return hose, this hose is a fireproof high temp hose so it can be reused.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/970634_495628607178454_577006095_n.jpg

 

Now the Turbo is on the work bench I can get a proper look at where the leak is coming from. I had always suspected the leak was coming from the flange gasket as it looked a bit moist.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/998747_495629337178381_1308516293_n.jpg

 

Removing the oil drain pipe showed that the gasket had failed.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/1075661_495788390495809_1782417629_n.jpg

 

Although taking a closer look at the gasket it showed some damage running from the center almost to the outside edge, this must have been the cause of the leak.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/1000872_495789740495674_1427744444_n.jpg

 

So I replaced the gasket and got the turbo reinstalled, I also added some more heat protection on the return hose just for peace of mind.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/579581_497838293624152_1682705598_n.jpg

 

While I was at it, I also noticed the wideband AFR sensor connector had evidence that it got a little too hot by the downpipe (was a little bit melty), therefore I decided to add some heat shielding material to the AFR connector and cable, again for peace of mind :)

https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/549463_497851690289479_864776273_n.jpg

 

Finally I also changed the Radiator cap with a new Whifbitz 1.1bar cap as the other one had failed.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc1/1005191_497863333621648_651001929_n.jpg

 

I then set about putting it all back together and this is how it now stands.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/995938_497871070287541_1715409837_n.jpg

 

I am setting about re-installing the downpipe this weekend and hope to get on with the rear upper bushes as well. I will then hopefully get to take it out on a test drive to see if the repairs and replacement parts for worn components have sorted out the vibration issues.

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Nice works mate. Is it no big deal that the air filter sits that close to the turbo (heat wise)?

 

Ah I should have said.

The cold air feed is off in that picture, the filter is only on the turbo to stop anything getting in for the meantime.

 

See how it will look once its all back :) (older picture)

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/579537_467777899963525_1739005348_n.jpg

Edited by ManwithSupra (see edit history)
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