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Manwithsupra's Racing Supra Project thread


ManwithSupra

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Are you keeping the stock tank? If so then yeah the swirl pot can be installed in the well and you can plate it off that should pass, although it would be best to check with the scrutineers that run the event you plan on doing for guidance on this. If you cant speak to them then you can purchase a MSA yearbook which details everything (this is the link to the 2012 book http://www.msauk.org/site/cms/contentviewarticle.asp?article=1122)

 

If you are having a new tank installed (like an ATL tank) you will need to install the tank in a approved metal enclosure (with a sealed lid) and then that separated by a firewall.

 

 

Yea I will go stock tank I just did a search someone on here sold a second hand one for 750 the rrp price was 2800! , I had a look on whifblitz Paul sells the swirl pot that bolts above the diff think I will go this route the external pump also bolts here so no fuel is run inside the car , thanks for the link mate I will have a good read through that .

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Yea I will go stock tank I just did a search someone on here sold a second hand one for 750 the rrp price was 2800! , I had a look on whifblitz Paul sells the swirl pot that bolts above the diff think I will go this route the external pump also bolts here so no fuel is run inside the car , thanks for the link mate I will have a good read through that .

 

No probs mate glad I could be of help :)

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I am going to start to have a proper look this weekend I think.

 

Going to start off with running the sniff test again (Just to be sure) doing a compression test and getting my borescope to have a look into any suspect cylinders to check out any signs of coolant entering the combustion chambers.

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A quick update.

 

Spent a few hours on Saturday having a look at the car.

Took the plugs out and visually inspected the combustion chambers using a bore scope and there were no signs of coolant seepage in the chambers, checked the spark plugs to see of there was anything evident on these but they were fine, ran a compression test and this was fine, never had a chance to do a leak down test as I couldn't find the adapter I needed to change the air line connector to the fitment I needed (typical) - another one on order so I guess we will see when that arrives.

 

I decided to do another coolant sniff test... ran the car up to operating temps and did the test again to my amazement this time it passed...

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5U8wR7DwraU

 

Cant really understand this, to make sure the fluid was working (and to make sure there were no blockages in the tube) I went around the back of the car and popped the end into the exhaust and the fluid went yellow so its working the way it should.

 

I retested the car 5 times that day and they all came back negative so happy days!

I am going to revert the cooling system back to how the stock system worked to see how that goes.

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happy days mate :D

 

what boost you running maybe the head lifted slightly? but good call going back to stockish set up at least it will show if preasure gets that great again

 

Running 1.5bar at the moment, I thought you only suffered head lift in crazy power applications.

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  • 3 weeks later...

A bit of a close call it seems.

 

Did some more work on the car this weekend while I am waiting for my new Diff/Prop coupling to arrive from Belgium.

I decided to investigate the source of a small oil leak I discovered after my last track day, After removing all the turbo induction pipes etc to get a clearer view of the suspect area I noticed that the fireproof heat shielding on the Turbo oil return hose had seen better days so I decided to replace it, So I took it off and not only did it need replacing it also showed where I have the oil leak.

 

The shielding material was completely saturated in oil and was resting on against the exhaust manifold as well.

Once I get the car oil drained down with I will replace the entire hose and all associated fittings (cannot be to careful).

 

To give you an idea on how dangerous this was I took a little video of the material once I touched it for less than a second with a match... the flame only had to touch it and it went up very quickly.

[video=youtube;bAU3S-Edqx0]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bAU3S-Edqx0

 

I know I have a fire suppression system in the car but that's not the point... So I have been wondering how long have I been out on track on borrowed time!!

 

If you have fireproof shielding on any oil hoses please make sure you do regular checks to see if they are seeping oil, I was unaware of an oil leak until it got to the point the material could not soak up any more and started dripping on the flat floor.

 

A picture of how the engine bay now looks...

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=185215&stc=1&d=1399465822

1017342_485616051513043_1473143886_n.jpg

Edited by ManwithSupra (see edit history)
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Wow that is unexpected of fire proofing , doubt it would of caught fire but always better safe then sorry, expect its just the oil that is burning but the wrap is acting like a candle wick,

 

Yeah exactly, the fire proofing material was acting as a wick and it was the oil in it that was burning off. To let you know it kept burning for around 3 mins.

 

You say that it was doubtful that it would have caught fire however Car oil has a Auto Ignition temp of around 350-400'c (Auto Ignition is the heat you need for it to self combust without the need of a spark or flame) so it resting on the exhaust manifold which is in excess of 700'c provides a really high danger of it Auto Igniting.

 

The issue is then that it will catch the leaking oil hose and then you have a fully sustainable oil fire...

Edited by ManwithSupra (see edit history)
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Just had an email from Toyota, my new Diff/Prop coupling is on its way to me and should be with me tomorrow. With the good weather and longer evenings I will be able to fit the balanced prop, sort the oil line and get some descent test drives done this week. I may be back out on track sooner than I think.

 

As I go to Goodwood a lot If you want to either join me on track or want to spectate then these are some potential dates you may want to note down. I will need to confirm these dates first though so keep an eye out. Anyway the dates are the 8th, 24th, 31st of August and the 21st September. There will be other tracks as well this year but I need to confirm what dates I can run on which tracks (due to noise limits etc).

 

In the meantime If you wish to be a passenger in the car at one of the Goodwood days then please let me know in advance and I will make sure I will keep a session free so I can take you out around the track. Even though passengers are FOC at Goodwood you will still need to sign a indemnity form before you are allowed out. - I will keep you posted on which dates I am booked in.

 

I am also introducing a new rule, as the car is pretty savage in cornering, braking and accelerating, the fact its very noisy and hot it also smells of oil and fuel (as does most race cars) some of the passengers do end up feeling a little ill... On my last track day It was very difficult to hear someone shouting at the top of their voice saying they felt ill,:sos: so If you do end up in the car and start to feel a little ill or want me to stop then let me know by tapping me on the arm, I will then slow down my pace and come in, but please do so if and when you start to feel ill, no good telling me just before you are about to throw chunks in your helmet..:D

Edited by ManwithSupra (see edit history)
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Just had an email from Toyota, my new Diff/Prop coupling is on its way to me and should be with me tomorrow. With the good weather and longer evenings I will be able to fit the balanced prop, sort the oil line and get some descent test drives done this week. I may be back out on track sooner than I think.

 

As I go to Goodwood a lot If you want to either join me on track or want to spectate then these are some potential dates you may want to note down. I will need to confirm these dates first though so keep an eye out. Anyway the dates are the 8th, 24th, 31st of August and the 21st September. There will be other tracks as well this year but I need to confirm what dates I can run on which tracks (due to noise limits etc).

 

In the meantime If you wish to be a passenger in the car at one of the Goodwood days then please let me know in advance and I will make sure I will keep a session free so I can take you out around the track. Even though passengers are FOC at Goodwood you will still need to sign a indemnity form before you are allowed out. - I will keep you posted on which dates I am booked in.

 

I am also introducing a new rule, as the car is pretty savage in cornering, braking and accelerating, the fact its very noisy and hot it also smells of oil and fuel (as does most race cars) some of the passengers do end up feeling a little ill... On my last track day It was very difficult to hear someone shouting at the top of their voice saying they felt ill,:sos: so If you do end up in the car and start to feel a little ill or want me to stop then let me know by tapping me on the arm, I will then slow down my pace and come in, but please do so if and when you start to feel ill, no good telling me just before you are about to throw chunks in your helmet..:D

 

I would absolutely love a passenger ride in this at some point :)

 

Hopefully I'll come and spectate at a couple of track days this year to give my Supra a good run :)

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Did a bit more Vibration diagnosis last night by going over each suspension component in detail and have found two suspect bushes which have a slight knock on the upper rear suspension arms (both rear arms, both the exact same bush)

 

Obviously any knocking from a bush means it needs replacing So it leaves me with a number of options,

 

Replace both of the Arms with new OEM units or Adjustable ones.

Replace the failed bushes with Poly ones (the ball joints are fine).

 

I am not sure what to do really, I am leaning towards just re-bushing the old arms with Poly bushes but I am wondering If I am just wasting time and should purchase new OEM or Adjustable ones.

 

Hmmmm

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I am not sure what to do really, I am leaning towards just re-bushing the old arms with Poly bushes but I am wondering If I am just wasting time and should purchase new OEM or Adjustable ones.

 

It all boils down to what you deem as an acceptable sum of money to spend rectifying the problem mate.

 

If you are willing to shell out for new OEM components then I honestly think that adjustable arms from a recognised manufacturer aren't that much more of a stretch, lets face it, we're talking big bucks either way.

 

The reason I went for a complete polybush overhaul was, like you, I found a couple of tired bushes on the front arms and I assumed the rest couldn't be very far behind. Both of the above options were totally unrealistic at the time (proper adjustable arms would be my preferred solution). But I have to say I really think the overhaul has transformed the car, it was done in conjunction with a Chris Wilson Bilstein upgrade so I can't give the bushes all the credit.

 

On a dedicated track car like mine, or indeed yours, I don't think a polybush upgrade can be seen as a bad decision when value for money is considered.

 

And now I've got a set of special bushes winging their way towards me to increase the caster and camber available on the front lower arms, a definite advantage over stock replacement arms.

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The upper rear arms run spherical bearings instead of a rubber bush. Replacing it with a polybush would be replacing it with an inferior product. :)

 

But would that, and the design of the rest of the bushes, not be more to do with trying to reduce road noise and vibration from the cabin of a road car, to improve the quality of the ride in other words?

 

Something not particularly important on a track car?

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But would that, and the design of the rest of the bushes, not be more to do with trying to reduce road noise and vibration from the cabin of a road car, to improve the quality of the ride in other words?

 

Something not particularly important on a track car?

 

No, IIRC they did it because during development, the geometry on the back changed too dramatically during travel when using a soft bushing. Running a Spherical bearing increases NVH, but the trade off for performance was obviously worth it in Toyota's eyes.

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No, IIRC they did it because during development, the geometry on the back changed too dramatically during travel when using a soft bushing. Running a Spherical bearing increases NVH, but the trade off for performance was obviously worth it in Toyota's eyes.

 

So the spherical bearing actually degraded the ride quality but increased grip on the stock suspension.

 

Guess that blows my theory out of the water then.

 

But surely with some of the upgrades that Richard has already carried out, the stiffer Nitrons for one thing, and the actual current design of the car itself being more mid-engined than FR the stock suspension and its inherent characteristics could prove to be unnecessary?

 

I mean Toyota were trying to produce a great GT road car, not a race car.

 

I'm not arguing just for the sake of it mate, I'd dearly love to understand more about the Supra's undercarriage, its limitations, how it behaves in different situations and what can be done to improve its track capabilities, within reason.

Edited by pedrosixfour (see edit history)
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