letmeshowyou Posted July 21, 2005 Share Posted July 21, 2005 why don't you want to power brake though? (if it breaks, fix it?!) presumably toyota would have done that to get the published figures? at least if you try a run like this you'll get a closer idea of if theres anything wrong surely? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MONKEYmark Posted July 21, 2005 Share Posted July 21, 2005 get yourself to trax they do a 0-60 time or what about santapod see what you do for a base time, then you can compare against other cars on the list. get it on paper see how your 60foot times compare supras can be hard to get off the line. 2.4 is an average 60foot time on supras and a low 2.1 is good. my best on street tyres at santapod is 2.050 60 foot not standard car. never timed a 0-60mph Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnA Posted July 21, 2005 Author Share Posted July 21, 2005 Mark, I'm still trying to get my head round this 'auto' thing. I did try powerbraking, but the times were *worse*http://www.max-boost.co.uk/stuff/woohoo.gif Left foot brake, right foot full throttle, revs go up to a bit over 2Krpm then let go of brake --- right? I thought it would spin in a cloud of smoke and shoot in a series of dougnuts. Instead it fecken bogged down and went like a slug. Plus I had a new smell in the cabin, from the torque converter I guess. Is there a trick I'm missing, or should just accept my fate? (the Calibra was doing easily 5 seconds flat on that road, despite the barrage of misfires) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miguel Posted July 21, 2005 Share Posted July 21, 2005 Did you have the Trac fuse pulled? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnA Posted July 21, 2005 Author Share Posted July 21, 2005 Nope, should I? I was thinking to get a 'baseline' I wouldn't need to pull the fuse, this changes the recipe, doesn't it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miguel Posted July 21, 2005 Share Posted July 21, 2005 Well yup I can see the base line you want to get, but when using the power brake method ( and it sound like you are doing it right) as soon as you let off the brake it will bog down as that nasty Trac will see slip and just wind the TB shut and then let it open slowly ( cant miss it the slip cont ligh will be flashing like a goodun), like the bog down you described. You can still get a baseline just do every run with it pulled Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jake Posted July 21, 2005 Share Posted July 21, 2005 Left foot brake, right foot full throttle, revs go up to a bit over 2Krpm then let go of brake --- right? That's how I do it. Don't do it for more than a couple of seconds though - the trans fluid gets pretty hot. I thought it would spin in a cloud of smoke and shoot in a series of dougnuts. It should be able to spin the wheels if you don't press the brake too hard. Just a question of finding just the right amount of brake pressure to allow the rears to spin up but still having enough pressure for the front brakes to stop the car moving forward. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnA Posted July 21, 2005 Author Share Posted July 21, 2005 Yes, I think Migsta you're right, it felt like the throttle was closed. So despite heating up the transmission fluid, you leave off the line like a slug, worse than leaving it alone. Worst of both worlds, niiiice.... :thumbdown Fecken TC, I'll pull off the fuse and swallow it, so it can't go back, blody thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elliot Posted July 21, 2005 Share Posted July 21, 2005 Stoopid ( Why can't you simply switch it off? Or have I missed something? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnA Posted July 21, 2005 Author Share Posted July 21, 2005 Pulling the TC fuse stops the front 'flap' from being smart altogether. It also disables the 155mph limiter (not that it counts in this case...) ....now where did I put that TC fuse.... http://www.max-boost.co.uk/stuff/headuptheass.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elliot Posted July 21, 2005 Share Posted July 21, 2005 Pulling the TC fuse stops the front 'flap' from being smart altogether. It also disables the 155mph limiter (not that it counts in this case...) Front flap? Have we discussed this already? (I better go back and re-read the whole thread properly! ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miguel Posted July 21, 2005 Share Posted July 21, 2005 Here you go Elliot a few threads on it http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/search.php?searchid=320328 and another http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=27733&highlight=trac+fuse Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnA Posted July 21, 2005 Author Share Posted July 21, 2005 If you take off the pipe going from the i/c to the throttle body you'll see that there are TWO flaps. The front one is TC, the other one you control with your foot. The bloody thing takes liberties with the front one, to protect you from yourself. It also retards ignition and even presses the brakes (the UK spec at least). Seriously... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elliot Posted July 21, 2005 Share Posted July 21, 2005 Here you go Elliot a few threads on it http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/search.php?searchid=320328 and another http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=27733&highlight=trac+fuse Aha! The magical search button! I'll head off to the archives now... Before I go - would O/D off make much difference on a 0-60 run? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnA Posted July 21, 2005 Author Share Posted July 21, 2005 I would *think* so, but I'll know for sure once I've finished my timings. My feeling is that in "O/D off" mode it revs higher and/or changes quicker, but it could be placebo. Once I get the launch thing right, I'll do timings with TC on, off, blah blah. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MONKEYmark Posted July 21, 2005 Share Posted July 21, 2005 whats the big thing with 0-60? think supra is best from 30 up as it just pulls and pulls have a try at santapod and see how you get on.practice what works best for you. i would think you would have to drive it hard if you want to do well.dont the book times get driven by a professional and aint it a average of so many runs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl0s Posted July 21, 2005 Share Posted July 21, 2005 John, how the hell are you hitting fuel cut on a 0-60 run? I also have a UK spec, 3" downpipe (no cats) and 3" exhaust... I only hit fuel cut at over 90mph.. is your boost controller doing something I should be doing? I have (mostly) blocked off the wastegate actuator on no1 turbo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl0s Posted July 21, 2005 Share Posted July 21, 2005 Well yup I can see the base line you want to get, but when using the power brake method ( and it sound like you are doing it right) as soon as you let off the brake it will bog down as that nasty Trac will see slip and just wind the TB shut and then let it open slowly ( cant miss it the slip cont ligh will be flashing like a goodun), like the bog down you described. You can still get a baseline just do every run with it pulled what even with TRC turned off? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnA Posted July 22, 2005 Author Share Posted July 22, 2005 whats the big thing with 0-60? think supra is best from 30 up as it just pulls and pulls I'm doing 0-60 runs under different configurations to check for power changes, because I change little things. The 0-60 is the easiest to perform in real life, and if it can be repeatable within 0.1sec (which with an auto it should be) then I'm happy. I can also do 1/4 mile on 'my straight' but usually it's not safe enough (traffic) have a try at santapod and see how you get on. Santa Pod is an hour and a half a way mate, I want my measurements any day I feel like it, and repeatable too. I use them as power runs (which you can actually extrapolate once measuring rolling/aerodynamic resistance, and transmission losses, doable with an accelerometer) practice what works best for you. I've done below 3 secs on a bike, now that needed practice (avoid spinning and wheeling at the same time ) i would think you would have to drive it hard if you want to do well.dont the book times get driven by a professional and aint it a average of so many runs? I don't care if I do 'well', I just want to create a readily repeatable upgrade path for changes I make. That's why I asked what people saw for themselves in such tests with stock autos, without 'tricks'. I am now suspecting that the stock figures were done with TC switched off (we'll see how the timings change...) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnA Posted July 22, 2005 Author Share Posted July 22, 2005 John, how the hell are you hitting fuel cut on a 0-60 run? I also have a UK spec, 3" downpipe (no cats) and 3" exhaust... I only hit fuel cut at over 90mph.. The boost controller (ball and spring) wouldn't go lower than 1 bar , and despite having a spare spring to cut&modify I left it as is, because I planned to move over 1 bar later (which I've done now) I'm playing with the efficiency of the compressors too, so they're not pushing hot air as they would normally do at higher boost. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaveriK Posted July 22, 2005 Share Posted July 22, 2005 I was under the impression that OD off just stopped you from getting into 4th gear and had no effect of gearing other than that. And i would certainly hope that you wouldnt see 4th in a 0-60 run unless your towing!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnA Posted July 22, 2005 Author Share Posted July 22, 2005 Impressions are nice, measurements are better Yes, "OD off" stops it from moving up to 4th gear. But this is electronically-controlled autobox, 'sports' oriented according to Toyota. So other things are done in the background, such as retarding ignition during gear changes or TC-activation, operation of TC flap during changes, and others perhaps (EBV activation point, for one) So it *could* potentially affect the rev-change points, among others. Toyota claim that 'manual' mode almost HALVES the gearchange times, so there are different levels of ECU-intervention. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnA Posted July 22, 2005 Author Share Posted July 22, 2005 OK, "O/D off" and TC switched off (from the cabin): 5.7secs. I could hear the tyres chirping during the gearchanges I can't see how a stock auto can do 5.5secs in auto mode with TC on, mine holds 1 bar in second gear. Either mine is a duff one, or the others used powerbraking and manual mode - that should bring lower times if the launch is good. The times are very consistent though, always within 0.1 sec, that's good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazboy Posted July 22, 2005 Share Posted July 22, 2005 I tried switching the o/d off on Sunday- made absolutley no difference at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnA Posted July 22, 2005 Author Share Posted July 22, 2005 it's all in the mind... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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