Hollywood Posted October 23, 2011 Share Posted October 23, 2011 How on Earth did that happen? Scary thing is I drove a bit on it. Never noticed any trouble with the vehicle. Shame I don't have any spares. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_jekyll Posted October 23, 2011 Share Posted October 23, 2011 do you have spigot rings? also possibly over tightend Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hollywood Posted October 23, 2011 Author Share Posted October 23, 2011 (edited) Hey Jekyll, Pretty sure they didn't have rings. Over tightened was my first thought. The shop had the wheel off a few weeks ago but it was fine when we inspected it afterwards. I wonder if he thought because the nuts only go in about a full rotation and a half, if he needed to overcompensate and thus tightened it too much. I'm going to have to check the rest of them now. Furthering that, I'm having a hard time identifying the wheel model. I have no idea what they were other than from the early days of the original EQUIP series from Work. Though the original original had flat arms, as opposed to the slight curve(which is why I liked these). I've contacted Work hoping they can advise on wheel nut replacement. Thanks for mentioning over tighten, I'll check the threading tomorrow and then call the shop. Just hope I don't lose a wheel on the way. Edited October 23, 2011 by Hollywood (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Westy Posted October 23, 2011 Share Posted October 23, 2011 You'll be fine to drive on four mate. One of mine sheared off before driving down to Suprapod! Held fine and we weren't hanging around! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_jekyll Posted October 23, 2011 Share Posted October 23, 2011 spigot rings are a must mate. without them you are putting too much load on the studs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hollywood Posted October 23, 2011 Author Share Posted October 23, 2011 Ya Westy, just being paranoid. Jekyll, you make a good point. However thinking now about the rings..I'm not entirely sure if they are in there or not. Rings would affect the amount of available thread would they not? I didn't ever take notice of it, but the guy at the shop seemed concerned that he only had to torque it one full time around and them some before it was really snug..hence my theory on him over tightening. I'm assuming nuts would start shearing off before a wheel came loose - assuming they don't have enough thread to play with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
themodifiedkid Posted October 23, 2011 Share Posted October 23, 2011 No spigot rings dont affect the available amount of thread, they just centralise the wheel on the hub Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_jekyll Posted October 23, 2011 Share Posted October 23, 2011 No spigot rings dont affect the available amount of thread, they just centralise the wheel on the hub and carry load instead of the wheel studs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted October 23, 2011 Share Posted October 23, 2011 Over tightened was my first thought. The shop had the wheel off a few weeks ago but it was fine when we inspected it afterwards. I wonder if he thought because the nuts only go in about a full rotation and a half, if he needed to overcompensate and thus tightened it too much. I'm going to have to check the rest of them now. Furthering that, I'm having a hard time identifying the wheel model. I have no idea what they were other than from the early days of the original EQUIP series from Work. Though the original original had flat arms, as opposed to the slight curve(which is why I liked these). I've contacted Work hoping they can advise on wheel nut replacement. Thanks for mentioning over tighten, I'll check the threading tomorrow and then call the shop. Just hope I don't lose a wheel on the way. Thats not very safe in my opinion and far worse than not having spigot rings. I have WORK Equips and they look like this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigbloodyturbo Posted October 23, 2011 Share Posted October 23, 2011 I had 2 studs shear taking the nuts with them and one more had the nut missing but left the stud....on one wheel. I had spigot rings. I replaced all the studs with new toyota and put proper nuts on and never had a problem after. Supra's are supposedly renowned for losing wheel studs, i would imagine if the stud is on it way out it would stretch slightly, lowering the torque and allowing the nut to back off. I would think about spending a saturday morning changing the other studs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swampy442 Posted October 24, 2011 Share Posted October 24, 2011 Its possible that stud has has the threads stripped or cross threaded, my car had that when I picked it up. Get the nut off and inspect all the studs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DodgyRog Posted October 24, 2011 Share Posted October 24, 2011 Hey Jekyll, Pretty sure they didn't have rings. Over tightened was my first thought. The shop had the wheel off a few weeks ago but it was fine when we inspected it afterwards. I wonder if he thought because the nuts only go in about a full rotation and a half, if he needed to overcompensate and thus tightened it too much. I'm going to have to check the rest of them now. Furthering that, I'm having a hard time identifying the wheel model. I have no idea what they were other than from the early days of the original EQUIP series from Work. Though the original original had flat arms, as opposed to the slight curve(which is why I liked these). I've contacted Work hoping they can advise on wheel nut replacement. Thanks for mentioning over tighten, I'll check the threading tomorrow and then call the shop. Just hope I don't lose a wheel on the way. Am I reading this bit right, when you put the nuts on they only need 1 1/2 rotation until tight from nothing, if thats the case then it's a disaster waiting to happen, You must have either a large apacer of someone has replaced the bolts with ones that are to short. 1 1/2 rotations means all the pressure is only on about 3-4mm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil-NA Posted October 24, 2011 Share Posted October 24, 2011 If its only going on 1 and 1/2 rotations then that is in no way near enough thread poking out, as Dunk said its very unsafe, i am sure you need 5-6mm of thread to be safe, i would think about fitting longer studs, this is just me though after previously having a car that the wheel fell off due to this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hollywood Posted November 5, 2011 Author Share Posted November 5, 2011 Much obliged for all the responses. Local shop offered to put some new studs in for me. I found these http://www.titanmotorsports.com/arpwheelstuds1.html Do these look suitable? I am under the impression it's only the back wheels that have this threading issue. Have not had front wheels off yet recently to have a look. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
merckx Posted November 5, 2011 Share Posted November 5, 2011 The ARP studs are widely used. http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?245411-Fitting-ARP-Extended-Wheel-Studs&highlight=wheel+studs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hollywood Posted March 4, 2012 Author Share Posted March 4, 2012 (edited) Anyone remember the standard length in millimeters for the OEM rear studs? I think with 5mm rear spacers, I'd be looking at needing something in the range of 12x1.5 I'll also try Steve at Toyota, though not sure if he's still around? @DNK Those are the original first generation are they not? Oddly I found mine were possibly a mid-year/half-year release, never to be seen again. Edited March 4, 2012 by Hollywood (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted March 4, 2012 Share Posted March 4, 2012 The answer is to buy some rims that are actually designed to fit the car... Jeez, there are some death traps on the road these days. Sometimes I wonder if proper compulsory inspections for modified road cars are the only way to get people to sell / buy / fit things that work safely. I wouldn't let my wife drive that to the corner shop Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted March 4, 2012 Share Posted March 4, 2012 Is it me or are the nuts not centred in the holes, ie the wrong PCD on the wheel. I have now seen loads of cars with snapped studs on services, its no longer a surprise !!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
merckx Posted March 4, 2012 Share Posted March 4, 2012 Anyone remember the standard length in millimeters for the OEM rear studs? Overall length is 48mm, length to the shoulder is 43.5mm. The front and rear studs are the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robzki Posted March 4, 2012 Share Posted March 4, 2012 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hollywood Posted March 10, 2012 Author Share Posted March 10, 2012 (edited) Overall length is 48mm, length to the shoulder is 43.5mm. The front and rear studs are the same. Thank you. I found a shop not too far that deals 13.7 shank off the shelf, and about one inch longer than OEM. Hopefully soon have them fitted and be done with it. I guess I should have just done that to begin with, but couldn't understand how after fifteen years and only a handful of wheel removals, that a nut would randomly(seemingly) shear off. Edited March 10, 2012 by Hollywood (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hollywood Posted March 24, 2012 Author Share Posted March 24, 2012 (edited) Here is what they sent me. Notice the lip under the spline..seems the spline is quite excessive/aggressive compared to the OEM and ARP. The Shank measures appropriately, however not getting accurate read on the spline. I get a circumference of about 48mm / 3.14 = 15.3mm. OEM and ARP are no bigger than 14.8 - hope the female spline is big enough to take this oversized male. Will find out on Monday if they'll fit.. wish me luck. Edited March 24, 2012 by Hollywood (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted March 24, 2012 Share Posted March 24, 2012 @DNK http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=140762&d=1319398447 Those are the original first generation are they not? Oddly I found mine were possibly a mid-year/half-year release, never to be seen again. Sorry i missed this, in answer to your question i've no idea mate to be honest Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garethr Posted March 24, 2012 Share Posted March 24, 2012 (edited) ...Notice the lip under the spline..seems the spline is quite excessive/aggressive compared to the OEM and ARP. The shank measures appropriately, however not getting accurate read on the spline. I get a circumference of about 48mm / 3.14 = 15.3mm. OEM and ARP are no bigger than 14.8 - hope the female spline is big enough to take this oversized male. Will find out on Monday if they'll fit.. wish me luck.dandan mentioned a similar issue with the ARP studs in the tread that was posted earlier. http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?245411-Fitting-ARP-Extended-Wheel-Studs Could it be that they make them oversize to allow for wear by cutting the splines slightly deeper? Edited March 24, 2012 by garethr (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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