hodge Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 Hi guys I'm wanting to build a new engine over the winter, something that will hold 1000+ RWHP. I've never built an engine from scratch before but really want to learn with all your help as I go. No doubt there will be some sceptics that tell me to take it to an engine builder, but the whole point is the I'm going to learn from it and hopefully ad this to my skills. Dont get me wrong it will be an expensive mistake if it goes bang, but if it does it does I'll learn where I went wrong and move to be better for it the next time around. Odviously I'm hoping this won't happen which is why I'm asking for input from you guys. Undoubtably there are some 1st class engine builders on here, with the likes of Chris Wilson, Lee.P, Matt and John at AFR, Tony Licence, etc etc (please excuse me if I missed you out). The block itself I'll take to a machine shop to be checked, rebore if needed, decked etc (is there anything else that should be done to it?? So onto balancing, I've read a brief discription on balancing rods and pistons but could do with someone going into more detail really, as in where you take the material off etc etc. I want to gather as much info on all these procedures before I start as a technical reference if I can. Just a side note, I have a bare block and crank so were good to go for now. Thanks in advance. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieP Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 For a 1000+ rwhp you will want billet main caps mate, make sure you use a machine shop that has experience in line boring the 2JZ. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hodge Posted October 20, 2011 Author Share Posted October 20, 2011 For a 1000+ rwhp you will want billet main caps mate, make sure you use a machine shop that has experience in line boring the 2JZ. Myself and Johnny have spoke to Chris Wilson about that and he doesn't think there nessessarly unless the car is going to be tracked or drag raced regularly. I wasn't going to use them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieP Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 Myself and Johnny have spoke to Chris Wilson about that and he doesn't think there nessessarly unless the car is going to be tracked or drag raced regularly. I wasn't going to use them. No point in having 1000+whp if you aint going to use it mate, many high power supras have broken stock main caps, that car in your garage now (envy supra) has broken them before, why take the risk and have a weak point? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest supra_steve86 Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 with that kind of power im guessing you will need to bore out 87mm (1mm overbore) and used forged parts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hodge Posted October 20, 2011 Author Share Posted October 20, 2011 with that kind of power im guessing you will need to bore out 87mm (1mm overbore) and used forged parts From what I've read, it will only need a rebore of the bores are damaged or oval. I Wouldn't make any difference to the power if it was rebooted or not. Rods and pistons wise I think I'm going to go for BC pro rods. Pistons I'm looking into. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hodge Posted October 20, 2011 Author Share Posted October 20, 2011 No point in having 1000+whp if you aint going to use it mate, many high power supras have broken stock main caps, that car in your garage now (envy supra) has broken them before, why take the risk and have a weak point? This is exactly the thing I need Jamie, opinions and advice of as many people as possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieP Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 This is exactly the thing I need Jamie, opinions and advice of as many people as possible. Have a read of this thread mate, some have been lucky and got away with it, many have broken at a 1000whp. http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?606776-Billet-Main-Caps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 No point in having 1000+whp if you aint going to use it mate, many high power supras have broken stock main caps, that car in your garage now (envy supra) has broken them before, why take the risk and have a weak point? with that kind of power im guessing you will need to bore out 87mm (1mm overbore) and used forged parts JP is right do it once do it right, whilst the 2JZ is not known for breaking bottom ends better safe than sorry. You cannot balance a crank without a balancing machine and you need to be able to weigh each end of a con rod to balance it correctly, pistons will be easy but a decent set like Mahle' etc will rarely need any work. If you bore to 86.5 you will get another bite of the cherry if you scuff a bore. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 From what I've read, it will only need a rebore of the bores are damaged or oval. I Wouldn't make any difference to the power if it was rebooted or not. Rods and pistons wise I think I'm going to go for BC pro rods. Pistons I'm looking into. The bore needs boring to the piston manufacturers specific measurement, each piston to wall clearance will differ depending on make of piston. It would be sheer madness to spend all that money on pistons and chuck em in an old bore, at the very least you will need the bores honed to put a X hatch pattern on them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest supra_steve86 Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 btw if someone could reply to my post in here would be loverly lol need advice bad! and o yer dunu if anyones intrested but im getting my new engine ultrasonically cleaned and one place has offered group discount if anyones got some bits they want making nice and clean Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 btw if someone could reply to my post in here would be loverly lol need advice bad! and o yer dunu if anyones intrested but im getting my new engine ultrasonically cleaned and one place has offered group discount if anyones got some bits they want making nice and clean Which post dude?? And I ultrasonically clean all my parts anyway;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noz Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 btw if someone could reply to my post in here would be loverly lol need advice bad! and o yer dunu if anyones intrested but im getting my new engine ultrasonically cleaned and one place has offered group discount if anyones got some bits they want making nice and clean make your own thread then mate, dont hijack the thread Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hodge Posted October 20, 2011 Author Share Posted October 20, 2011 So I need to buy the pistons before the block is machined to get the piston to wall Clearence correct, is that right?? Also does the crank require balancing by the machine shop then. The crank I have came from the block I have also so wouldn't it be already balanced?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 So I need to buy the pistons before the block is machined to get the piston to wall Clearence correct, is that right?? Also does the crank require balancing by the machine shop then. The crank I have came from the block I have also so wouldn't it be already balanced?? It will be balanced dude and pretty well to boot but I have never had one I cannot improve on, wether a machinist would bother because it is so good I cannot say but you need to turn the sensitivity right up on our machine to get a reading, yes you need to get the pistons before boring and to be technically correct get the block bored using a torque plate to simulate the head being torqued down, you can also get the block and head faced to make sure they are perfectly flat and remove some of the casting flash inside the block and paint with Glyptol to make the surface slipperier so the oil gets back in the sump quicker. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hodge Posted October 20, 2011 Author Share Posted October 20, 2011 What's casting flash?? And what's Glyptol?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swampy442 Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 This thread is full of useful info Casting flash, I assume, is excess metal from the casting process when the block is made. So if you were to balance your own rods, where woud you remove material from? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hodge Posted October 20, 2011 Author Share Posted October 20, 2011 This thread is full of useful info Casting flash, I assume, is excess metal from the casting process when the block is made. So if you were to balance your own rods, where woud you remove material from? Again this is essential info. Pics and vids would be great for tech reference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ibby Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 WHat are main caps? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonB Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 You really need to get the machine shop to balance the pistons and rods as well as the crank. You would need very accurate digital scales - it's not worth the expense of getting some. They should really balance the crank as a unit with the flywheel and crank pulley attached. When I built mine I got the machine shop to clean the block, head and oil pan/strainer etc - again they have the equipment to do this properly and much easier than you can. They bored and honed the block to the clearance I specified, did a very light skim of the head so it was absolutely flat even though it was in tolerance anyway. I also had them balance the crank, rods and pistons, port & polish the head, put new valve guides in and recut the valve seats. I also worked out the combustion chamber volume I needed for the correct compression ratio given the pistons and head gasket I was using and gave them that to make sure they had it right after porting. It's best to let them do all that stuff unless you have some serious equipment on hand. Then you can do the fun stuff - assembling, checking etc. There's a thread on my build somewhere. Edit: Here you go http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?142190-DIY-Engine-build Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swampy442 Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 WHat are main caps? Big ends, rod caps, a section that goes round the crank and bolts to the con rod. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonB Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 This thread is full of useful info Casting flash, I assume, is excess metal from the casting process when the block is made. So if you were to balance your own rods, where woud you remove material from? You basically shave the ends, either big end of little depending which way it's out. It's pretty hard to do properly without decent equipment like a milling machine. To balance the pistons you chamfer the pins - that way you can avoid having to machine the actual piston. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonB Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 (edited) Big ends, rod caps, a section that goes round the crank and bolts to the con rod. Not quite. The main caps are the bit that goes round the crank and attaches the crank to the block. The big end is part of the rod. Here's a pic from my build thread showing the 7 main caps:- Edited October 20, 2011 by SimonB (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hodge Posted October 20, 2011 Author Share Posted October 20, 2011 You really need to get the machine shop to balance the pistons and rods as well as the crank. You would need very accurate digital scales - it's not worth the expense of getting some. They should really balance the crank as a unit with the flywheel and crank pulley attached. When I built mine I got the machine shop to clean the block, head and oil pan/strainer etc - again they have the equipment to do this properly and much easier than you can. They bored and honed the block to the clearance I specified, did a very light skim of the head so it was absolutely flat even though it was in tolerance anyway. I also had them balance the crank, rods and pistons, port & polish the head, put new valve guides in and recut the valve seats. I also worked out the combustion chamber volume I needed for the correct compression ratio given the pistons and head gasket I was using and gave them that to make sure they had it right after porting. It's best to let them do all that stuff unless you have some serious equipment on hand. Then you can do the fun stuff - assembling, checking etc. There's a thread on my build somewhere. Edit: Here you go http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?142190-DIY-Engine-build I work in a machine shop Simon so I've got everything at hand I could need really for weighing etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ibby Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 Big ends, rod caps, a section that goes round the crank and bolts to the con rod. Thanks Craig Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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