leet45single Posted October 9, 2011 Share Posted October 9, 2011 im currently running the 1/4miles on the r888's (285/35/18) and need to get a better 60ft so after looking on numerous treads it seems et streets are the way to go but after a little search on the net I've got a few little questions and would like some advice that will hopefully set me straight. would I be better running these on a 17x10rim? http://www.mickeythompsontires.com/strip.php?item=ETStreetRadial&sku=3743R&size=P275/40R17&type=SS&bnr=y or these on a 15x10 rim? http://www.mickeythompsontires.com/strip.php?item=ETStreetRadial&sku=3753R&size=P275/50R15&type=SS&bnr=y my arches have been rolled and the rear looks slightly lifted because the 285/35/18 r888's have loads of room still if that make any difference. which ever tyre I get I'll need the correct rim as I've only got 18s so if a 15 or 17 is better I can look for the rim as well to match. also is there anywhere in the uk that sells them?. and Finely have I over looked any tyre that is better for me to use on the strip, if anyone prefers another drag tyre better please let me know. thanks regards lee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieP Posted October 9, 2011 Share Posted October 9, 2011 15's will be far better than 17's, they are also softer on the drivetrain, lots of uk companys to get drag radials from, for 15's you need j-spec brakes. RX7 16's clear uk brakes an all, very popular sateside. Websters. L A Racing TopSpeed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leet45single Posted October 9, 2011 Author Share Posted October 9, 2011 cheers yep got j-spec rears ... and fronts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted October 9, 2011 Share Posted October 9, 2011 If you want the best launch then go for the 15's with a 28" tall tyre, the reason they work so well on a strip is the give in the sidewall that stops the tyre breaking free. I have 4 325 X 50 X 15 drag radials for sale for £200 if that helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leet45single Posted October 9, 2011 Author Share Posted October 9, 2011 If you want the best launch then go for the 15's with a 28" tall tyre, the reason they work so well on a strip is the give in the sidewall that stops the tyre breaking free. I have 4 325 X 50 X 15 drag radials for sale for £200 if that helps. 15's it is then, im still on standard rear arches thats only been rolled I maybe wrong but dont think a 325 will fit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RZ95 Posted October 9, 2011 Share Posted October 9, 2011 As already pointed out the 15's are the way to go. You'll need to massage your inner wells with a big hammer to get the 325/50-15 to fit. If your arches are rolled really aggressive then you should be able to fit them with the proper back spacing (7.5"). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leet45single Posted October 9, 2011 Author Share Posted October 9, 2011 As already pointed out the 15's are the way to go. You'll need to massage your inner wells with a big hammer to get the 325/50-15 to fit. If your arches are rolled really aggressive then you should be able to fit them with the proper back spacing (7.5"). ye thats the problem I dont really want to mess about with spacers or a hammer really so im still going to get the 15's but a 275 or something, just need to get a rim that looks good to the front alloys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted October 9, 2011 Share Posted October 9, 2011 15's it is then, im still on standard rear arches thats only been rolled I maybe wrong but dont think a 325 will fit? They fitted the black car no problem with the spacer/locater ring we had made, JP has this now, it fits tight on the hub spigot and tight in the weld drag wheel but ive always used the 325 and never had a problem, dont forget prob more than 50% of getting the rear to hook up is running diff geo, the nature of drag racing geo puts the inside of the tyre further away from the inner wall, if you just run DR's without altering geo you are only 50% there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted October 9, 2011 Share Posted October 9, 2011 ye thats the problem I dont really want to mess about with spacers or a hammer really so im still going to get the 15's but a 275 or something, just need to get a rim that looks good to the front alloys http://weldracing.com/wheels/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RZ95 Posted October 9, 2011 Share Posted October 9, 2011 They fitted the black car no problem with the spacer/locater ring we had made, JP has this now, it fits tight on the hub spigot and tight in the weld drag wheel but ive always used the 325 and never had a problem, dont forget prob more than 50% of getting the rear to hook up is running diff geo, the nature of drag racing geo puts the inside of the tyre further away from the inner wall, if you just run DR's without altering geo you are only 50% there. The black car you mention, does it have wider arches? What BS did you have on the rims? I had to beat the wells with a big hammer and I know the US guys do the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieP Posted October 9, 2011 Share Posted October 9, 2011 (edited) I was just about to put the 5mm hubcentric weld spacers dude speaks of up for sale as i use bigger ones with my car being wide arch, £50. Boostlogic sell them for $160 http://www.boostlogic.com/catalog/p140837/BL-Hubcentric-Wheel-Spacer-15x10-Weld-Wheel-Toyota-Supra-93-02-/product_info.html Edited October 9, 2011 by JamieP (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted October 9, 2011 Share Posted October 9, 2011 If you have the power to need DR's you will have to run some sort of hubcentric spacer to locate the much larger bore of the weld wheel to the Toyota hub, you will also need to run much longer studs as the drag wheels are so thick. My silver car from years ago ran no spacers and 325's but the rear wheels ran no +ve camber. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted October 9, 2011 Share Posted October 9, 2011 The black car you mention, does it have wider arches? What BS did you have on the rims? I had to beat the wells with a big hammer and I know the US guys do the same. No stock arches just rolled, you will hardly move the inner arches no matter what hammer you use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leet45single Posted October 9, 2011 Author Share Posted October 9, 2011 I was just about to put the 5mm hubcentric weld spacers dude speaks of up for sale as i use bigger ones with my car being wide arch, £50. Boostlogic sell them for $160 http://www.boostlogic.com/catalog/p140837/BL-Hubcentric-Wheel-Spacer-15x10-Weld-Wheel-Toyota-Supra-93-02-/product_info.html http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c338/jamie450x/ecd0e264.jpg pmed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leet45single Posted October 9, 2011 Author Share Posted October 9, 2011 If you have the power to need DR's you will have to run some sort of hubcentric spacer to locate the much larger bore of the weld wheel to the Toyota hub, you will also need to run much longer studs as the drag wheels are so thick. My silver car from years ago ran no spacers and 325's but the rear wheels ran no +ve camber. this is where I get lost I was hoping just to swap the wheels at pod maybe put a spacer on them take them back off and drive home lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieP Posted October 9, 2011 Share Posted October 9, 2011 this is where I get lost I was hoping just to swap the wheels at pod maybe put a spacer on them take them back off and drive home lol Thats fine, i do the same, mine fitted with stock wheel studs and i ran like that for a long time, i changed for arp's just to be safe last year. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RZ95 Posted October 9, 2011 Share Posted October 9, 2011 you will hardly move the inner arches no matter what hammer you use. Not true. I gained about an inch of clearance by doing this. The area that needs banging is where the well bends around the subframe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted October 9, 2011 Share Posted October 9, 2011 Not true. I gained about an inch of clearance by doing this. The area that needs banging is where the well bends around the subframe. Thats not where it hits, the place you need to move is almost immovable, like I said if you have the geo to match drag radials its not a problem anyway, as for wheel studs I ran my black car with ARP and twisted them like pretzels, its a heavy car and if it hooks up even with a small single it puts a lot of strain on 18 year old not very strong to start with wheel studs. Anyway what do I know?i'll have a bet I was the FIRST person to run a 15" drag wheel on this forum who still posts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greeny Posted October 9, 2011 Share Posted October 9, 2011 If they're just for strip, go for a full slick over a radial everytime. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RZ95 Posted October 9, 2011 Share Posted October 9, 2011 Thats not where it hits, the place you need to move is almost immovable, like I said if you have the geo to match drag radials its not a problem anyway, as for wheel studs I ran my black car with ARP and twisted them like pretzels, its a heavy car and if it hooks up even with a small single it puts a lot of strain on 18 year old not very strong to start with wheel studs. Anyway what do I know?i'll have a bet I was the FIRST person to run a 15" drag wheel on this forum who still posts. You might be the first to run 15's on here, but that is where it hits yes.. It hit there before I banged and now it doesn't.. Hard to argue against that. It is also the same place it hits on all US DR users I've spoken to, and I've seen pictures of where they've banged it as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted October 9, 2011 Share Posted October 9, 2011 You might be the first to run 15's on here, but that is where it hits yes.. It hit there before I banged and now it doesn't.. Hard to argue against that. It is also the same place it hits on all US DR users I've spoken to, and I've seen pictures of where they've banged it as well. IF you run 15's and DR's you should also be running a very soft rear shock (or its a pointless escapade) if you run a soft enough shock you would need to raise the car quite a lot and also as I keep saying alter the geo, if you do this it will not touch, yes you can move the inner arch a little by beating it but you gain only a tiny amount. if you are running 15" DR's with normal hard coilover shocks with normal geo you are not letting the tire work, you yourself say you had to let off in 4th gear in your last video, thats because your suspension is too hard for that road and the tires are bouncing and letting go, same reason I have seen 1000cc sports bikes get creamed down B roads by something like a 600 bandit, the suspension is not suited to a hard bumpy road. They prob did have to 'bang' their inner arches, i would have had to if I ran anywhere near stock geometry but why would I run a hard shock and stock positive camber geo with a Drag tire, like I said what do I know so ill leyt you experts carry on beating the shit outta your cars arches. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RZ95 Posted October 9, 2011 Share Posted October 9, 2011 And btw, the place I'm talking about is really stout and it takes a lot of force to bang it in. On the lower lip where it bend around the subframe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted October 9, 2011 Share Posted October 9, 2011 And btw, the place I'm talking about is really stout and it takes a lot of force to bang it in. On the lower lip where it bend around the subframe. Yes I know where you mean it feels indestructable, you would need a very heavy hammer to make an impression on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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