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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Timing belt keeps jumping teeth...?????


Florin

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You go to Toyota and ask for a timing belt for a Supra? Thought that would be fairly easy to work out...

 

OK thanks. would have figured that much. Just thought since you mentioned it you might or someone else on here might already know.

 

Again thank you to everyone for the advice so far....:)

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If you need to someone to count a stock belt I have a genuine toyota one here that I haven't fitted yet. Are there differences in belts from non-vvti to vvti? or UK to JDM?

 

Sure that would be good to know. I think im narrowing it down to a slightly bent cam gear....( The car had been in a wreck before I bought it).

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Spec is:

 

143 Teeth, 1 inch (25mm) top width, .315 inch (8mm) pitch, 45.039 inch (1144mm) belt overall length.

 

A bent cam pulley or misaligned tensioner pulley could well throw the belt. A bent cam pulley will almost certainly have knackered the tensioner itself. If the pulley was bent in an impact I'd get the cam itself checked for straightness and crack tested. Stock chilled cast iron cams are unlikely to bend though, they will crack or snap as they are very brittle. Good luck!

Edited by Chris Wilson (see edit history)
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Its a 2jz-gte with a v160 tranny. The idle has been giving me a hard time staying between 400 to 700. Had gotton it from the shop and drove it for three days at 15 psi and it was wonderfull :))). On the 4th day the belt skipped 5 teeth at the cams. Took the belt off ( which was 10 days old) and but a brand new tensinor on it and sicne then its been running very very rich to the tune of 8 mpg. Took it back to the shop ( guy charges 70$ an hr) hes like look if you leave it hear I would start with changing the spark plugs, cleaning the maf sensor and doing a compression check " but you can do that yourself without paying me. ( I DO know a lot about cars) :) just never have dealt with a car that was turbo charged let alone a supra. So I did what he told me got the spark plugs he told me gapped them and got the "maf sensor cleaner and sprayed let it dry and blew it out with "dry" shop air. Still have the same problem. Tru the scanner on it for the hell of it wich brought up "dtc 13 speed sensor (rpm) over a 1000" . Troublshooting and found out possiable couses. " crank sensor, crank trigger wheel, belt loose or jumped. And thats where I am now. Im 99% sure the belt is where it needs to be , did the whole tdc thing whit the cams, number 1 piston and crank. So Im thinking of putting on a used crank sensor and seeing what happens. If that doesnt change anything then put mine back on and trying another trigger if that doesnt change anything then Ill have to start thinking about changing the maf sensor with a new one . Thats about where things stand. Aslo beside the low idle bad mpg, in 3d 4th 5th at low rpm 1800ish it wants to stall/backfire/die...

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The belt may have damaged the crank position trigger wheel or the crank position sensor. I would find someone good on double overhead cam engines to have a proper look at it stripped down.

 

I got the trigger on its way from toyota. gonna change it and see what happens, if thats not it then im gonna change the crank sensor.

 

Not sure how the belt could have done that to either.? It just jumped teeth not come off/loose

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Have you changed it?

 

Im looking for one or two rather..... But I was thinking even if it could be worse then I see it ( while running) the thing is that it ran great for a 3 days after I got it out from the shop. So how can it run good with it bent and then not.... You cant hardly see it unless your a really staring at it close and if the other wasnt next to it you could not tell the diff.....

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