jjs_82 Posted September 14, 2011 Share Posted September 14, 2011 (edited) Hi everyone, I'm thing of going single turbo! Going for about 600bhp so the engine remains safe!! Here's a list of things i'm going to buy for the car, so if anyone can advise or add to the set up please let me know!![GRIN][/GRIN] Garage Whifbitz S366 66mm twin wastegate twin scroll single turbo kit Fuel rail kit with 1000cc injectors Fuel pressure regulator Bosch 044 pump BC cams 264 and Valve Spring & Retainer (these are the 2jz-ge cams from a is300 so i can have the VVTI) Adjustable Cam pullys Syvecs S6GP Some of these things are kinda over and above what i need but i dont want to be running things on it's max i want to keep her safe!! As i said before too if any of you guys have any advice or info on this i would be greatful Cheers. Things i have FMIC Oil cooler Exhaust Clutch Gauges boost water temp and oil pressure Dump valve Edited September 15, 2011 by jjs_82 (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnny g Posted September 14, 2011 Share Posted September 14, 2011 What about an FMIC? I take it you'll be running -8 lines from the pump to the tank. Oil cooler would be good. Exhaust If it's auto, you'll need a built box If it's manual, you'll need a clutch capable of holding it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricky49 Posted September 14, 2011 Share Posted September 14, 2011 Gauges my friend AFR Boost Fuel Pressure Oil temp Oil pressure EGT Water temp I would definately have a AFR and maybe a boost gauge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnny g Posted September 14, 2011 Share Posted September 14, 2011 Gauges my friend AFR Boost Fuel Pressure Oil temp Oil pressure EGT Water I would definately have a AFR and maybe a boost gauge. Wire the oil temperature and pressure, along with EGT direct to the ECU so it can trigger safety Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricky49 Posted September 14, 2011 Share Posted September 14, 2011 Yes brother that's my next tinkering for Ryan to do to mine. Good call. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homer Posted September 14, 2011 Share Posted September 14, 2011 Are you aiming for 600bhp with some room to go for a larger turbo if you feel it too "inadequate"? Also as John mentioned, is it 6spd or auto? This is very important... If you want to aim for a genuine 600hp range you're going a bit overkill in som areas such as the injectors, FPR, etc.. The tock system is fine at those levels along with some simple drop-in injectors. Changing the cams will also be overkill at these levels if the engine is a VVTi. Gauges wise, I disagree a bit with the above. AFR and boost are essential (good gauges with peak hold and ideally playback, though with the S6 and some logging this is not important). Oil temp & pressure is also a nice one, but the rest are really more worry gauges and only needed if you are planning track days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Samurai 20V Posted September 14, 2011 Share Posted September 14, 2011 If it's manual, you'll need a clutch capable of holding it. Sorry for the hijack, I am eventually planning a single build around this power, I was hoping my TRD single plate clutch will hold 600hp? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted September 14, 2011 Share Posted September 14, 2011 Sorry for the hijack, I am eventually planning a single build around this power, I was hoping my TRD single plate clutch will hold 600hp? I highly doubt that. I have 450lbs in my head. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted September 14, 2011 Share Posted September 14, 2011 Here's my list, might help you.... Single List Update Already on the car: Greddy 4 Row FMIC - £800 HKS SSQV2 Dump Valve - £200 AFR Gauge - £190 EGT Gauge - £100 Boost Gauge - £60 New Oil Pump - £140 New Water pump - £120 Front Crank Oil Seal - £40 Bought (required Items): Turbo Kit (BL 4" down/mid pipe, BL manifold, AEM intake, lines etc), 900cc Bosch Injectors, FIC rail, GSC Stg1 Cams - £1900 Precision 6765 Billet Turbo - £700 ASI Radiator - £100 Bosch Fuel Pump - £115 Titan/ATI Crank pulley - £250 Aeromotive FPR - £100 Aeromotive Fittings - £30 Fuel Lines - £240 HKS Ti 4" Exhaust System - £600 ECU Sensors, Solenoid, Lambda & Switches - £280 Oil Sandwich Plate - £26 OEM Manifold Nuts - £20 OEM Manifold Studs - £10 OEM Timing Belt - £31 OEM Aux belt - £40 BC Stainless Springs & Retainers - £285 Bought (Recommended but Non-Required Items): Power Steering Cooler Kit - £70 Vernier Cam Pulleys - £80 Billet Timing Tensioner Bracket - £150 Oil Cooler Kit - £115 ARP Head Studs - £100 OEM Gasket Kit - £240 OEM Crank Pulley Bolt - £8 OEM Thermostat - £40 OEM Sump Bolt - £5 OEM Sump Washer - £1 Oil Pressure/Temp Gauge - £150 Still to Buy (Required): Valve Shims - £100 Solaris ECU - £1600 RPS Carbon/Carbon Clutch - £1800 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Samurai 20V Posted September 14, 2011 Share Posted September 14, 2011 I highly doubt that. I have 450lbs in my head. Well, it worth a shot.. Will add a decent clutch to the list! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Samurai 20V Posted September 14, 2011 Share Posted September 14, 2011 Nice list Scott, very informative.. Just some questions.. About the cooling system, would a new OEM radiator not suffice for this power level? The FPR is optional according to Homer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted September 14, 2011 Share Posted September 14, 2011 Nice list Scott, very informative.. Just some questions.. About the cooling system, would a new OEM radiator not suffice for this power level? The FPR is optional according to Homer? I would ditch the stock FPR regardless, it doesn't take a lot to do it and an aeromotive gives you better control over the fuel. The stock fuel lines are more than enough for that sort of power though. An OEM radiator is right as rain, the reason I went with aftermarket is that I got it for a good price and mine was on its last legs BTW, remember that this is my list. The FPR isn't an option for me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Samurai 20V Posted September 14, 2011 Share Posted September 14, 2011 I would ditch the stock FPR regardless, it doesn't take a lot to do it and an aeromotive gives you better control over the fuel. The stock fuel lines are more than enough for that sort of power though. An OEM radiator is right as rain, the reason I went with aftermarket is that I got it for a good price and mine was on its last legs BTW, remember that this is my list. The FPR isn't an option for me Ok, thanks... I realise that is your choice.. For the cost of the FPR I would throw it in the mix as well.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted September 14, 2011 Share Posted September 14, 2011 Ok, thanks... I realise that is your choice.. For the cost of the FPR I would throw it in the mix as well.. Not really a choice bud. I think it's accepted that the stock FPR restricts power to around 600hp. I can't remember the exact figure though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Samurai 20V Posted September 14, 2011 Share Posted September 14, 2011 Not really a choice bud. I think it's accepted that the stock FPR restricts power to around 600hp. I can't remember the exact figure though. Ok, understand mate. You think the Walboro will hold up to 600hp? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted September 14, 2011 Share Posted September 14, 2011 Ok, understand mate. You think the Walboro will hold up to 600hp? Highly doubt it, would need a double. That's the reason I'm going with the bosch, good for ITRO 700hp. I wouldn't fancy pushing it past 750 though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Samurai 20V Posted September 15, 2011 Share Posted September 15, 2011 Highly doubt it, would need a double. That's the reason I'm going with the bosch, good for ITRO 700hp. I wouldn't fancy pushing it past 750 though. Ok cool... Its amazing how addictive this stuff is, I always had the intention of staying at BPU, that single turbo build is beginning to turn into a reality with every post on this forum.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted September 15, 2011 Share Posted September 15, 2011 Ok cool... Its amazing how addictive this stuff is, I always had the intention of staying at BPU, that single turbo build is beginning to turn into a reality with every post on this forum.. If toyota would get the finger out.... yeah I fancy manifold wrapping tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjs_82 Posted September 15, 2011 Author Share Posted September 15, 2011 Ok sorry every one i should have said what i have. {98 vvti tt6} Blitz Nurspec catback with 1st and 2nd De-cats. Greddy front mount inter cooler. Trust oil cooler. Fidanza lightened flywheel. Whifbitz braided fuel hose to remove pulsation damper. Blitz oil pressure gauge. HKS dump valve. Blitz SBC (Sequential boost controller). Apexi pillar mounted gauges (boost and temp Apexi turbo timer. Spec clutch kit. HKS twin power High performance ingintion system Type DLI. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjs_82 Posted September 15, 2011 Author Share Posted September 15, 2011 So this would be a good set up then? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Whiffin Posted September 15, 2011 Share Posted September 15, 2011 Ok, understand mate. You think the Walboro will hold up to 600hp? Walbro will be ok for 600bhp yes, we run plenty of cars with them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Whiffin Posted September 15, 2011 Share Posted September 15, 2011 So this would be a good set up then? Sounds good to me although you may want to go for the S362 if your only going for 600bhp, the S366 will go to 750bhp quite easily so it may be overkill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Samurai 20V Posted September 15, 2011 Share Posted September 15, 2011 Walbro will be ok for 600bhp yes, we run plenty of cars with them. Thanks Paul. Good to know! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricky49 Posted September 15, 2011 Share Posted September 15, 2011 Are you aiming for 600bhp with some room to go for a larger turbo if you feel it too "inadequate"? Also as John mentioned, is it 6spd or auto? This is very important... If you want to aim for a genuine 600hp range you're going a bit overkill in som areas such as the injectors, FPR, etc.. The tock system is fine at those levels along with some simple drop-in injectors. Changing the cams will also be overkill at these levels if the engine is a VVTi. Gauges wise, I disagree a bit with the above. AFR and boost are essential (good gauges with peak hold and ideally playback, though with the S6 and some logging this is not important). Oil temp & pressure is also a nice one, but the rest are really more worry gauges and only needed if you are planning track days. One never said they were all needed matey just advise on what he could look into. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjs_82 Posted September 15, 2011 Author Share Posted September 15, 2011 Sounds good to me although you may want to go for the S362 if your only going for 600bhp, the S366 will go to 750bhp quite easily so it may be overkill.but having some overkill is that not a good thing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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