drift_bear Posted September 13, 2011 Share Posted September 13, 2011 (edited) I bought this from ebay at the weekend and its due here soon. Im looking at installing it myself but i am wanting to know how easy/hard it is or is it worth putting into a garage to done? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120767825677&ssPageName=ADME:B:EOIBSA:GB:1123 comes as a complete kit ◦Comes with inter-changeable facias as shown below ◦Ideal AFR monitoring tool for EFI and carbureted applications ◦Does not oscillate AFR reading like narrow band sensors ◦No laptop required for monitoring ◦Bosch sensor included ◦Accurate to 0.1 AFR ◦Reads in AFR or Lambda via a switch in back of gauge housing ◦24 Color-coded LED display lights provide immediate reference to engine’s air/fuel ratio (AFR) or Lambda ratio ◦Integrated three-digit display reveals AFR or Lambda in real time ◦User-programmable 0-5v analog output included for use with data loggers and virtually any engine management system ◦Serial data stream included for output of AFR (RS 232) ◦Weld-in exhaust boss included Edited September 13, 2011 by drift_bear (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted September 13, 2011 Share Posted September 13, 2011 You need to drill and weld your exhaust. If you can do that then it's a doddle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drift_bear Posted September 13, 2011 Author Share Posted September 13, 2011 You need to drill and weld your exhaust. If you can do that then it's a doddle im hoping it comes with fitting instructions lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mellonman Posted September 13, 2011 Share Posted September 13, 2011 its 2 wires earth and 12v feed and thats it apart from welding it in the 1st decat pipe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drift_bear Posted September 13, 2011 Author Share Posted September 13, 2011 its 2 wires earth and 12v feed and thats it apart from welding it in the 1st decat pipe where about on the first cat does it need welded? how do you run it from the cat to the guage Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted September 13, 2011 Share Posted September 13, 2011 where about on the first cat does it need welded? how do you run it from the cat to the guage Wherever you like, at 90 degrees would probably be best for ground clearance issues. The wire goes in through the firewall, easiest place is the drivers side below the brake booster in the inner wing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted September 13, 2011 Share Posted September 13, 2011 Also it will be 3 wires, possibly 4, rather than 2. You will have at least Earth, Ign +ive and Battery +ive. You will most likely also have a dimmer for when your lights are on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drift_bear Posted September 13, 2011 Author Share Posted September 13, 2011 ill wait till its here and get some pics up lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnny g Posted September 13, 2011 Share Posted September 13, 2011 Mine went in the second decat pipe, which Chris Wilson welded a boss onto. After that, doddle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pedrosixfour Posted September 13, 2011 Share Posted September 13, 2011 Mine went in the second decat pipe, which Chris Wilson welded a boss onto. After that, doddle. Mine will be doing the exact same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted September 13, 2011 Share Posted September 13, 2011 ill wait till its here and get some pics up lol Don't really need pics, they are all the same. There will be the wideband sensor which screws into the weld on bung. There will be the wideband logger/controller which will directly connect to both the sensor and the gauge and there will be the gauge itself. The gauge will need wired into the ignition, battery positive, earth and possibly the lights. Job done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mellonman Posted September 13, 2011 Share Posted September 13, 2011 Also it will be 3 wires, possibly 4, rather than 2. You will have at least Earth, Ign +ive and Battery +ive. You will most likely also have a dimmer for when your lights are on. yes there are 4 wires but only 2 are needed earth,positive, the others are logger and wide band single iirc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted September 13, 2011 Share Posted September 13, 2011 yes there are 4 wires but only 2 are needed earth,positive, the others are logger and wide band single iirc So your gauge is on constantly then? Seems a bit silly to me. Does your battery not die if you leave it too long? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mellonman Posted September 13, 2011 Share Posted September 13, 2011 So your gauge is on constantly then? Seems a bit silly to me. Does your battery not die if you leave it too long? okay scott very funny. of corse i have not wired it straight to perminent feed its off a switched live, i was just stating what the unit needs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drift_bear Posted September 13, 2011 Author Share Posted September 13, 2011 have edited first post for you to see what it comes with and etc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted September 13, 2011 Share Posted September 13, 2011 okay scott very funny. of corse i have not wired it straight to perminent feed its off a switched live, i was just stating what the unit needs You don't have a clue what you are talking about though. You can't just tell a guy how to do something that you don't even know how to do. Do you have an AFR gauge? Did you fit it? If so I would take it to someone to get it fitted properly and then re-calibrated as if you fitted it via your patented 2 wire method then your calibration is all to pot as the memory is erased everytime you turn the ignition off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Samurai 20V Posted September 13, 2011 Share Posted September 13, 2011 Easy job. I have the sensor w/harness through the passenger side grommet into the welded boss on the midpipe.. Gauge was a perfect fit in the clock location! Job done! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Samurai 20V Posted September 13, 2011 Share Posted September 13, 2011 (edited) Also it will be 3 wires, possibly 4, rather than 2. You will have at least Earth, Ign +ive and Battery +ive. You will most likely also have a dimmer for when your lights are on. Scott, I just installed mine recently, it is has 4 wires, earth, power, output for RS232 cable and 5V output.. I got it connected to a switched live as I dont want it on when the car is not running.. It does not have memory, the calibration is set by a switch on the rear... Edited September 13, 2011 by Samurai 20V (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mellonman Posted September 13, 2011 Share Posted September 13, 2011 (edited) You don't have a clue what you are talking about though. You can't just tell a guy how to do something that you don't even know how to do. Do you have an AFR gauge? Did you fit it? If so I would take it to someone to get it fitted properly and then re-calibrated as if you fitted it via your patented 2 wire method then your calibration is all to pot as the memory is erased everytime you turn the ignition off. who is it that dont have a clue what they are talking about:confused: have you a afr and did you fit yours lol. Scott, I just installed mine recently, it is has 4 wires, earth, power, output for RS232 cable and 5V output.. I got it connected to a switched live as I dont want it on when the car is not running.. It does not have memory, the calibration is set by a switch on the rear... see here my friend http://www.aemelectronics.com/wideband-air-fuel-systems-15/ point proven! Edited September 13, 2011 by mellonman (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnny g Posted September 13, 2011 Share Posted September 13, 2011 Ok ladies, let's not get out of hand here. Back on topic - and keep it there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drift_bear Posted September 13, 2011 Author Share Posted September 13, 2011 im going to put it where my air vent is, i already have my boost gauge where the clock is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Samurai 20V Posted September 13, 2011 Share Posted September 13, 2011 im going to put it where my air vent is, i already have my boost gauge where the clock is. The AEM is 52mm, I think the vent is 60mm... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnny g Posted September 13, 2011 Share Posted September 13, 2011 The AEM is 52mm, I think the vent is 60mm... Correct, you can put it where your clock is though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted September 13, 2011 Share Posted September 13, 2011 who is it that dont have a clue what they are talking about:confused: have you a afr and did you fit yours lol. see here my friend http://www.aemelectronics.com/wideband-air-fuel-systems-15/ point proven! Apologies mate, I stand corrected. I must say that it doesn't sound like a very good bit of kit in that case. For a start the reason for an ignition live and a battery live in every gauge I have seen/installed is to keep the current draw at an absolute minimum from the ignition. It is neither fused nor gauged for anything other than switching. Sounds like a massive howler from AEM IMO. I would be selling it and buying a decent one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drift_bear Posted September 13, 2011 Author Share Posted September 13, 2011 The AEM is 52mm, I think the vent is 60mm... i took my air vent out yesterday to check a few things and i think i can modify the vent and use that as a holder for the actual gauge so it fits flush and looks like it should be there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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