NA-T build

[-Welsh-Stealth-]

i have recently fitted the bolt on turbo kit to my NA supra. now that it's completed i am posting up a thread that shows from start to finish how myself& Dr_Jekyll fitted this kit with a step by step guide. with lots of pictures to show how it was done.

 

hopefully this will help people looking to do the same with their NA's and possibly help avoid problems during a build with plenty of prior preparation it also helps alot if you have a friend owning a garage and running a NA-T in the toyota sprint series

 

this sort of build can be done over a weekend with somebody who is a competent mechanic or knows what they're doing. luckily i had both bearing in mind this would only be the mechanical fitting. ie the piggy back ecu, turbo& feed lines & intercooler, and possible clutch. this obviously wouldnt include the re-map of the ecu.

this build took slightly longer as we had to wait on parts.the clutch arrived late and we had to wait until we could put everything back together. so my suggestions when starting this build would be:

 

* get your girlfriend to help with spelling on the build thread

 

*make sure you have all parts for the build ready to go

 

*make sure you have sufficient oil feed&return lines

 

*plan to have your supra off the road for at least a week should something go wrong.

 

*have a well lit& dry place to work on your car

 

*a competent mechanic

 

*enough oil's& lubes to replace whats drained

 

*a good strong engine stand/crane

 

*book a re-map with plenty of time to fit the kit (it also helps if you know somebody with a good knowledge of alot of the NA-T base settings, will save the mapper alot of time& you cash)

 

prior preparation prevents p$%# poor performance

Edited September 20, 2011 by -Welsh-Stealth- (see edit history)

[welshbuddy]

nice! was thinking of going down this road a while back with Jekyll also!, looknig forward to pictures mate!!

[Suprakeith]

Have to agree its bin something i bin thinking of aswell be good to c pictures and read the how two

[-Welsh-Stealth-]

we (Dr_Jekyll) started this build by taking the engine and gearbox out, as we were fitting a stage 4 competition clutch.

 

this involved first off taking the exhaust off so that we could get to the prop shaft&gearbox. so jacking your car up on axle stands would be a good start. there was a few heat sheilds left from the stock exhaust which we removed. we then emptied the gearbox of oil, and then removed the bolts holding the prop into the diff. an air gun will make work on tough bolts like these easy

 

prop shaft removed we disconnected the ecu and the loom surrounding.located in the passenger footwell under the carpet& plastic cover. once all the loom is disconected it can be pulled through the hole located behind the charcoal box...if you still have one?! make sure all loom is disconected before you get too rough on the wires.try not to pull to hard on the wiring as you wouldnt want a break in any curcuit, as this may cause massive issues when it comes to starting the car with the turbo fitted.

 

we also took the front bumper off and lights out for ease of engine removal.these would have eventually needed removing for the fitment of the fmic.

 

disconnec the power steering piping connecting the engine to the chassis.

 

disconnect the aircon piping connecting the engine to the chassis. just be aware that the gas inside is extremely hazardous.not far from the stuff used in those lovelly German camp showers for jews in WWII. so i'd advise getting a mechanic to drain this before proceeding....luckily'ish i had a rotted pipe that helped keep my car warm in the summer and the refrigerant out of the system.

 

undo earthing points from the engine to the chassis.

 

disconnect the power feeds/loom to the starter motor.

 

just generally makesure all piping& loom etc attached to the chassis from the engine is disconnected.

 

drain engine oil

 

drain and take out the radiator.

 

undo the engine mounting bolts from the underside of the car.

 

once everything connecting the engine& gearbox to the chassis is disconnected, its time to remove the engine and gearbox as one whole unit! for this you will require a crane able to take the weight of the engine and gearbox. and many hands make light work, so the more friends you can get to help makes things alot easier!

just take your time and as you go make sure nothing catches and everything is disconnected.

 

this took me and Craig ( Dr_Jekyll) about 4 hours taking our time. and luckily we had friends appear to help with the engine extraction.and to finish this off we all took the gearbox off for ease of clutch fittment.

 

 

pictures here:

 

http://s1118.photobucket.com/albums/k604/SupraSte4lth/Supra%20NA-T%20build/Supra%20NA-T%20build/Supra%20NA-T%20build/

Edited September 23, 2011 by -Welsh-Stealth- (see edit history)

[-Welsh-Stealth-]

nice! was thinking of going down this road a while back with Jekyll also!, looknig forward to pictures mate!!

 

i would definately advise going for it. it'll give the TT BPU's a run for there money and with Craig he knows what hes doing, obviously running a NA-T in the toyota sprint series ill get the dyno read outs from the NA and NA-T on here soon

[welshbuddy]

that would be awesome mate!! , ive been looking for an engine TT, but theres not many around , so this option might be the way forward .

[Suprakeith]

Iam def intrested in this option for more power,can i ask how much it cost please? as eally am thinking of doing this to mine

[-Welsh-Stealth-]

its probably the cheapest option for horse power to be honest.i did the research before going down this route and theres plenty of argument from both sides of the supra world... obviously the

"why didn't you just buy a TT?"

"why don't you sell your NA and just buy a TT?"

then theres the NA-TT route

 

but with the NA-TT route i'd seen a standard TT on a dyno kicking out about 250hp at the wheel.and although i'd been on track in it.i'd also experienced the NA-T and to me it seemed a bit more savage on boost.

and for the TT to gain horses your looking at the BPU route on top of a £2000 engine or a whatever it is for the NA-TT conversion. the TT engine is better for high end horses with low compression and all. but i was only after about 400 ponies.

and cause im a cheap-skate i looked at it that if i go NA-TT and the engine goes "bang" a £200 2JZ GE is easier to replace than a slightly more expensive 2JZ GTE.

and i'd spent alot on my NA chassis on coilovers and brakes and super pro bushers etc so selling my NA wasnt a choice for me. and i was slightly to young for the TT and very inexperienced in the supra world when i bought it.

these are just my views and opinions and i completely understand that some people won't agree with me here

 

but yeah the kit itself is about 2.5k i managed to get it alot cheaper on here from another member but this will need things like a good ECU, an intercooler+piping. and you may wont to replace the exhaust manifold, as some of these aren't built to well...i think there are some for sale on here at the moment???

and obviously on top of this the dyno/map so whatever you can get that for, should be around £300

 

hope that helps? anymore questions feel free to ask

[DodgyRog]

Good to see someone else going down this route

 

I am looking for a power upgrade hopefully next year, but I really am in 2 minds still

 

The TT transplant offers a smoother power delivery and at Bpu level is the same sort of power just a different delivery, but after seeing Dr_Jekyll's on the Dragonball it is tempting

 

My main concerns are reliabily of going N/A-T and the added hit on the 5-speed box, I am thinking the smoother power delivery of a TT Bpu is going to be better for the gearbox when it's being pushed to it's limits

 

Is there any history with engine/gearbox problems/reliability on N/A-T's

 

I really am undecided, but I am swayed towards the reliability of the TT transplant, really the costs are very similar, if anything N/A-T seems slightly more expensive unless you get lucky with a decent 2nd hand kit

[SamuraiFlash]

Before I decided to go NA-TT I seriously considered the NA-T route. From my research I remember running 7-8psi was considered "safe" with the stock compression of 10:1.

 

This boost pressure would give you around 300hp with the added responsiveness of a high compression engine. This really appealed to me as I like quick accelerating car's. If you want more power then the only way to safely up the boost levels is to lower the compression of the engine, and the best way to do it is to drop in a set of 2JZGTE pistons, replacing the headgasket for a thicker one isn't the way to do it.

 

The reason I didn't go down this route was because I can only drive Auto's because of an ankle injury, and the NA autobox isn't strong enough to cope with the jump in the torque levels. Thats why I went for the NA-TT route as the GTE autobox can handle alot more torque than the GE version. David2009 has recently figured out how to install the GTE autbox to the GE engine.

 

With a good budget the NA-T route is a very viable and reliable option.

Edited September 10, 2011 by SamuraiFlash (see edit history)

[Rob_Mitchell]

i done serious ammounts of research on the na-t route but was just not for me in the end. best of luck with the build

[-Welsh-Stealth-]

Before I decided to go NA-TT I seriously considered the NA-T route. From my research I remember running 7-8psi was considered "safe" with the stock compression of 10:1.

 

This boost pressure would give you around 300hp with the added responsiveness of a high compression engine. This really appealed to me as I like quick accelerating car's. If you want more power then the only way to safely up the boost levels is to lower the compression of the engine, and the best way to do it is to drop in a set of 2JZGTE pistons, replacing the headgasket for a thicker one isn't the way to do it.

 

+1

thanks for the input dude. I'll be going that way in year or 2.

[Scooter]

if you are hands on and want good (not massive) power then I think they can make sense, the trouble/high costs come if people aren't satisfied with these 'modest' gains and keep pushing things as inevitably just like the huge power single guys and their TT base cars, things start to fail.....

[Suprakeith]

It def seems like i way to go the NA-T for me as i like using my supra every day and want a relaible car with bit of power just so when do feel like putting foot down have the power their also really do miss the feel and noise of a turbo. so 3k should be enough for everything? as was very sure were going to do tt transpalnt but am going to try find bit more info bout NA-T if its relaible good power then will proberly go that way, i take it their is someone in the forum who could do the work for me?

[Noz]

depends if ur fitting it urself, and get low cost parts. certain things u wont want to cheap out on. turbo, ecu management etc. 3k wont turbo an na on good parts.

[Suprakeith]

so how much do you reckon it will cost then?

[dr_jekyll]

why did i strike that pose , bad picture. lewis car is a lovely motor and the power delivery comes on strong and constant. really nice drive and id say a good result. im sold on na-t becuase i just like doing it that way , pros and cons to every way of doing things but this just seems to make sence to me . mine should be making over 500 bhp when its remapped now i ahve 2 fuel pumps . just waiting on cash for mapping again.

 

as for reliability i see no reason why they shouldnt be reliable at 380ish hp but reliabilty i belive is down to the driver . if you have it glowing everywhere every day things are going to ware out. simples

Edited September 10, 2011 by dr_jekyll (see edit history)

[-Welsh-Stealth-]

Good to see someone else going down this route

 

I am looking for a power upgrade hopefully next year, but I really am in 2 minds still

 

The TT transplant offers a smoother power delivery and at Bpu level is the same sort of power just a different delivery, but after seeing Dr_Jekyll's on the Dragonball it is tempting

 

My main concerns are reliabily of going N/A-T and the added hit on the 5-speed box, I am thinking the smoother power delivery of a TT Bpu is going to be better for the gearbox when it's being pushed to it's limits

 

Is there any history with engine/gearbox problems/reliability on N/A-T's

 

I really am undecided, but I am swayed towards the reliability of the TT transplant, really the costs are very similar, if anything N/A-T seems slightly more expensive unless you get lucky with a decent 2nd hand kit

 

fair enough with the cost i have nothing to compare it to!? haven't done the NA-TT route lol!

 

with the power delivery you can see all you need to on the dyno read out at the start of the thread

as for the gearbox im sure someone on here with the expertise will be along to share their knowledge on the subject personal i went with the stage 4 competition clutch(good for about 500bhp). and the kits only been fitted a couple of weeks so i cant really say anything...but it's like Dr_Jekyll said, its all down to the driver and how they drive. a car driven to breaking point everywhere will eventually do just that.

 

as for helping anyone to decide.i understand its not for everyone like mitchell2009 said but my advise would be, next track day get yourself down there grab a helmet& jump in with the boys

Edited September 10, 2011 by -Welsh-Stealth- (see edit history)

[Suprakeith]

Yea like the sound of that think will have to do jump in few peoples supra's and see whats what before make my mind up which way to go

[abtin90]

Sorry this may be a bit off topic but do you mind if I ask where you got your clutch from? and do you have a link?

 

I'm also converting mine at the moment but haven't bought a clutch yet. Though it is on the shopping list.

 

Also congrats on your build.

[TRD-1]

Very Impressive build, and good figures to!....Whats ur spec list on this build, what turbo/wastegate u using?

[-Welsh-Stealth-]

Sorry this may be a bit off topic but do you mind if I ask where you got your clutch from? and do you have a link?

 

I'm also converting mine at the moment but haven't bought a clutch yet. Though it is on the shopping list.

 

Also congrats on your build.

 

pm sent

 

Very Impressive build, and good figures to!....Whats ur spec list on this build, what turbo/wastegate u using?

 

thanks guys i'll put the specs up at the end

[-Welsh-Stealth-]

first things first removing your old exhaust manifold will make things easier.

 

the next thing we tackled with the engine and gearbox out was the modification of the engine oil sump.

the reason this needs to be done is so that the oil that goes into the turbo from the oil feed. has a way back to the sump through the oil return.

 

we started by unbolting the sump. once we were happy all the bolts were out we took both parts of the sump & internal oil piping off. if like mine yours hasn't been off since factory then you may need some elbow grease when doing this. eventually it will give it may help to use a flat head screwdriver but try not to break or damage the sump to much.

 

with the sump off we clamped the upper/larger part for drilling. people seem to worry about this part of the build.but aslong as your sump is secure and you have some good drill bits there's nothing to worry! you can see the point where we drilled through the sump in the pictures bellow. its easy to located being the turbo side close to the front of the engine... i believe its for the 2jz gte turbo oil return pipe???

Craig got started on this as i got to cleaning the lower sump seal area. next we tapped the threads in the two holes either side of the main drilled hole. these may need to be drilled quite far in, so make sure you do the measuring if you come to do it. and make sure when your doing this you have good tools aswell.as this tool managed to snap one of the thread tappers with mong strength

we married the oil return pipe(sump side) to make sure it matched up and so that there were no don't leaks.

 

with the sump now drilled and tapped it was almost ready to go back on...but before we could do that we will had to obviously clear out all the metal filings from the drilling. we used an air hose and clean rag here.

whilst i was here then i also cleaned off the oil sump seal. this will need doing obviously, as this seal is very very important.and the more OCD you are the better. i used a sharp knife here to get the main bits of old sealant off and methalated spirits to clean the actual serfice.

 

now that it was cleaned and it all fits perfectly we put the sump back on a peice at a time and not forgeting the internal oil piping. with this we put the large sump on first making sure not to leave out any bolts. then the oil piping and finally the bottom part of the sump. make sure you use an adequate amount of sealant.

 

 

 

pictures here:

http://s1118.photobucket.com/albums/k604/SupraSte4lth/Supra%20NA-T%20build/Supra%20NA-T%20build/

Edited September 23, 2011 by -Welsh-Stealth- (see edit history)

[TRD-1]

what size hole have u drilled into the sump, and what size oil drain fitting r u using?

[-Welsh-Stealth-]

what size hole have u drilled into the sump, and what size oil drain fitting r u using?

 

It doesn't reLly matter what size hole you have drilled into the sump. You'll see the hole you need to drill if your going for the NA-T as seen in the pics above.shouldn't be too hard to locate once the sumps off. Sorry I haven't got anymore pics up, Internet problems at the moment... But basically as long as there isn't to much of a lip going into the sump your laughing.as it's gravity fed. It doesn't need any back pressure. And as long as you have the right sized flange for the oil return you won't have any leaks unsure of pipe size as Dr_jekyll squared the piping away& it turned out to be some awesome piping! good quality stuff hope that helps???