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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

what primer to get


barneybrendan

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best to use a standard base coat primer first mate. it sticks to metal and plastic better. high build primers aren't particullary good at being a base coat to stick whatever your spraying onto. some stay slightly soft as well.

 

if your going to use filler primer, use it as a second or third coat. get some base primer (like stock grey thinner primer) first. try and use build primer as a filler, as its never a good base and you want your last coat of primer to be relative to that colour, e.g. grey primer with black, red with yellow etc etc.

 

if you use build primer without a base its a bitch when you sand it as it just comes off in lumps if you use an abrasive material. :) you got a compressor?

 

should be able to use the same primer for fibreglass, plastic or metal, due to the fact your spraying on the gel coat rather than the fibreglass resin.

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http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/primer.htm

 

quote from Car Primers and Guide Coat Flatting:

 

High Build primer

High build primer forms a thick coat of paint that is suitable for sanding. It is not suitable for applying straight onto bare metal (it would flake off). Cellulose and 2 pack high build primers are commonly used in the UK. In the US it is common to use epoxy based primer.

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best to use a standard base coat primer first mate. it sticks to metal and plastic better. .

 

No acid etch primer on bare metal? :)

 

http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/primer.htm

 

quote from Car Primers and Guide Coat Flatting:

 

High Build primer

High build primer forms a thick coat of paint that is suitable for sanding.It is not suitable for applying straight onto bare metal (it would flake off). Cellulose and 2 pack high build primers are commonly used in the UK. In the US it is common to use epoxy based primer.

 

Isn't it saying that a high build primer isn't suitable for bare metal so you would use acid etch primer? :eyebrows: :)

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It certianly is as stated just for the fibreglass /plastic parts

 

Yeah, dont worry about it then mate. As Rob said, high build is fine. The only time things need to be done different is when spraying bare metal, I found that one out the hard way lol.

 

Remember to give it a little key before you start, to give the high build something to bite into.

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Whats with all the metal discussion? Is it not for plastic and fibreglass? High build should be fine directly onto both I would have thought?

Merely correcting a few things already said as obviously you only need to use acid etch on metal.

 

The high build primer will do the job fine, 2 pack will be the best but it's obviously very hazardous so I wouldn't use it unless I had a proper mask.

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Merely correcting a few things already said as obviously you only need to use acid etch on metal.

 

The high build primer will do the job fine, 2 pack will be the best but it's obviously very hazardous so I wouldn't use it unless I had a proper mask.

 

Oh no, I understood your input. I didn't get why the discussion went onto metal in the first place, it was like google copy and pasting rather than actual human input based on the query at hand :)

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Bare metal : metal etch primer,

Bare plastic or when paint over existing paint (obviously having flatted /dulled it off) : plastic etch primer

2K high build primer over all of the above.

 

We generally use adhesion promotor on most surfaces (accept metal), it helps it take well. In painting adhesion and surface prep is everything.

 

Pro Spray or UPOL we use.

 

Mentioned earlier in this thread was gel coat, EVIL nasty stuff....basically strip it off completely else it will react with the thinners most times in my experience.

 

With any of the 2k stuff dont mess about, get an air fed mask, extracted booth or even better both.........or do it out side completely with a decent 3M mask. Its nasty stuff, which can screw you up for life.

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