FOSTA Posted August 28, 2011 Share Posted August 28, 2011 Hi guys I was just wondering if you can run the supra fine with no lambda sensors? Why I ask is because I have a supra NA-T 1993. it ran perfect before I turbod it but when I done the conversion I bought 2 brand new lambda sensors ( not oem! They where the single wire bosh sensors). And the car ran lean and splutterd badly! So I put one of the 2 factory sensors back in and joined the 2 signal wires to the 1 sensor. And it ran fine but I did notice if I let it idle for a while it started to go lean but as soon as I drove away and less than 60 seconds the afr went perfect so seemed good to me. But today I thought I would put the 2nd sensor back in so it was like it was ment to be. and it ran badly again! So I disconnected both sensors on the high way and it seemed to run perfect again! So it ran bad with 2 bosh sensors connected and it ran bad with the 2 oem sensors connected. So my question was is it ok to run your car with no lambda sensors? Cheers for any help ;-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ManwithSupra Posted August 28, 2011 Share Posted August 28, 2011 No! Defo not a good thing to do... The ecu will be clueless on what the AFR is and the fueling will be all wrong Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FOSTA Posted August 28, 2011 Author Share Posted August 28, 2011 Oh rite! Just the afr seemed to idle at around 14.7-15.0 witch seemed perfect and cruising seemed to be around the same? I just wasn't sure if the lambda sensors where just for emissions? :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FOSTA Posted August 28, 2011 Author Share Posted August 28, 2011 Can Any body else shed any light on this? Cheers ;-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swampy442 Posted August 28, 2011 Share Posted August 28, 2011 If you have an AEM Uego you can use the simulated narrowband output of the sensor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FOSTA Posted August 28, 2011 Author Share Posted August 28, 2011 If you have an AEM Uego you can use the simulated narrowband output of the sensor. Yeah that's what I have mate. How do I do that? How do I wire up the sensor to the factory sensors? Cheers ;-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swampy442 Posted August 28, 2011 Share Posted August 28, 2011 Find the ECU pin outs and locate the O2 sensor wire, the wire from the Uego is white I believe, just splice them together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted August 29, 2011 Share Posted August 29, 2011 (edited) I am interested to learn the outcome of this N/A O2/1 AEM UEGO swaptrickery, please post your findings. Edited August 29, 2011 by David P (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hodge Posted August 29, 2011 Share Posted August 29, 2011 Jamie why can't you run the lambda sensors like the stock setup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted August 29, 2011 Share Posted August 29, 2011 Jamie why can't you run the lambda sensors like the stock setup. He explains why not in first post, I am waiting to see how it works out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FOSTA Posted September 1, 2011 Author Share Posted September 1, 2011 Ok I've pissed around with it for days now! Lol. I got my self a multi- meter to check the voltage output . #1 sensor reads 0.03v and #2 sensor reads 0.01v both at warm idle. So I took it for a drive and #1 sensor reads 0.10v and #2 reads 0.22v. I'm guessing both sensors should read the same as there only about 1" apart in the down pipe. So I'm assuming one or both sensors are knackerd but if one witch one? Lol I've searched for the voltage outputs all over but I can't find anything. If someone knows what the voltage output should be on the single wire oem denso lambda sensor it would be a massive help :-). I would just bite the bullet and buy 2 new sensors but I'm just not sure if they both knackerd or if it's something else causing a problem like the piggy back emu. so I want the check the sensors first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FOSTA Posted September 1, 2011 Author Share Posted September 1, 2011 Jamie why can't you run the lambda sensors like the stock setup. I'm no sure John? Lol when I connect them as stock the car is all over the place. It runs like abag of shite lol but unlike when I had the new Bosch sensors fitted and it ran propa lean. With the oem sensors the a/f seems to just jump all over the place from 14.0 to 17.0 rapidly and the car hesitates and there's no power then a burst of power? The only thing racking my brain is the car ran perfect before I stuck the turbo kit on with both sensors left as stock ? But maby one or both had just decided to break ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FOSTA Posted September 2, 2011 Author Share Posted September 2, 2011 Ok ive ordered a new lambda sensor from Andrew page they had to order it in for me so I should have it Monday. I was just thinking of fitting one of the sensors and checking the voltage and if matches up with one of the old sensors I will then know witch one is knackerd! But if it dosnt then all I can do is buy a second sensor. And if that dosnt work then I know it's not the lambda sensors and must be something else. Also I would need to cut and lengthen the lambda sensor wires as they don't fit as they sit further away as they fit in the turbo down pipe as before they where in the manifold. Could this cause any problems? I did solder the wires and finish off with heat shrink?. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Samurai 20V Posted September 3, 2011 Share Posted September 3, 2011 What ecu are you running after the conversion? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FOSTA Posted September 3, 2011 Author Share Posted September 3, 2011 (edited) I'm running the greddy e-manage ultamate piggy back emu mate Edited September 3, 2011 by FOSTA (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted September 3, 2011 Share Posted September 3, 2011 I'm running the greedy e-manage ultamate piggy back emu mate That made me smile. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FOSTA Posted September 3, 2011 Author Share Posted September 3, 2011 Pmsl it's this dam iPhone it changes words * greddy lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Samurai 20V Posted September 3, 2011 Share Posted September 3, 2011 I am no expert but isn't the e-Manage just a chip, the base map is still the Toyota ECU, which in your case is the NA ECU? Unless you have changed to a TT ECU? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FOSTA Posted September 3, 2011 Author Share Posted September 3, 2011 No it's not just a chip mate. It's a emu that piggy backs off my standard emu. It has full control over fuel and timing etc. And also let's me plug in a 3bar map sensor so the n/a dosnt throw a hissy fit when it hits positive pressure. It dosnt Have a base map. I had Ryan G do a base map when he was up in Newcastle. ;-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Samurai 20V Posted September 3, 2011 Share Posted September 3, 2011 No it's not just a chip mate. It's a emu that piggy backs off my standard emu. It has full control over fuel and timing etc. And also let's me plug in a 3bar map sensor so the n/a dosnt throw a hissy fit when it hits positive pressure. It dosnt Have a base map. I had Ryan G do a base map when he was up in Newcastle. ;-) Ok, sorry I did not read your first post properly, you have gone NA-T, not TT conversion.. Sorry for the waste of time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hodge Posted September 4, 2011 Share Posted September 4, 2011 It sounds like an electrical fault Jamie. I'd put the sensors back to stock with new sensors or sensors that you know are in good working order and go from there. If you can't find any breaks in the wire, wire them direct to the ECU. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FOSTA Posted September 4, 2011 Author Share Posted September 4, 2011 Yeah well I was just going to wait for the new sensor on monday and check out the voltage on that one. I read somewhere that at warm idle it should be around the 0.7v but I'm not sure if that was the turbo sensor that has 4 wires or the NA that has just 1 wire. Do I have my fingers crossed that the new sensor is putting out around 0.7 when warm then I will know both of my sensors are fooked lol. My multi-meter reads 0.01v warm and 0.10v after a drive so would it be that 0.10 = 0.1v? If so than I'm sure they will both be fooked lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FOSTA Posted September 4, 2011 Author Share Posted September 4, 2011 Ok, sorry I did not read your first post properly, you have gone NA-T, not TT conversion.. Sorry for the waste of time. Not to worry mate all input is helpful to me. ;-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FOSTA Posted September 4, 2011 Author Share Posted September 4, 2011 Just tought there John. I could be wrong but when I first had problems with the bosh sensors i disconnected the e-manage and just plugged the standard ecu back in and tried that but the problem was still there. So if it's an electrical problem I think it's more than Likely before the ecu. And I did check the wires on the ecu about 4 times before I started it up. but then again i could of damaged or nipped a wire fitting it back in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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