Robbie Posted August 28, 2011 Share Posted August 28, 2011 (edited) Not having used the car since supra pod. I thought it better to change the rear wheels back to the 18's from the 17 micket T' set. However when I lifted up the 18 set I noticed a lot of grease in the inside edge of the wheel. When I removed the 17 set I noticed small blobs of grease as well. This had clearly been leaking for a while now & with the wheel off I could see greasy deposits on a couple of other areas, shown in the two pics. It looks like when the grease has heated up it's leaking from between two metal seals. The rubber gator is intact. Could anyone inform me as to my best plan of action. Has anyone else had this issue? Does this mean a complete strip down of the rear hub and if so what new parts should I be looking at. Would it be easier to get a second hand rear hub? Thanks Rob Edited August 28, 2011 by Robbie (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted August 28, 2011 Share Posted August 28, 2011 If it turns out you need a replacement hub, I have one but without ABS sensor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbie Posted August 28, 2011 Author Share Posted August 28, 2011 If it turns out you need a replacement hub, I have one but without ABS sensor. Thanks. Hopefully this will not be too expensive to repair. I assume your one is from an = NA? I'm not really clued up in how I'd adapt the na to my version . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted August 28, 2011 Share Posted August 28, 2011 Is this not the cv joint thats got the problem ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted August 28, 2011 Share Posted August 28, 2011 They are the same fit for N/A and T.T, if you don't use ABS this will be fine, if you do this will be no use to you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted August 28, 2011 Share Posted August 28, 2011 I too would suspect the C/V joint gaiter or surrounding region. C/V joint grease is black, hub bearing grease is white / yellow/ clear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbie Posted August 28, 2011 Author Share Posted August 28, 2011 (edited) Hi Chris, Hi Dnk. The rubber gaiter is in good condition. It's definitely coming from between the metal join. What would you suggest is the best plan of action here? If it's the cv joint , is that a replaceable section or will I need to get a whole new joint? Edited August 28, 2011 by Robbie (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbie Posted August 28, 2011 Author Share Posted August 28, 2011 (edited) Does anyone have a technical diagram of this area. Thanks. edit: I've found this: http://mkiv.com/techarticles/rear_wheel_bearing/index.html I'm going to take another look then attempt to get the drive shaft off if I cant' see any other area whre the grease is emanating from Edited August 28, 2011 by Robbie (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted August 28, 2011 Share Posted August 28, 2011 Here: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbie Posted August 29, 2011 Author Share Posted August 29, 2011 Thank you Chris. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted August 29, 2011 Share Posted August 29, 2011 (edited) Have a look in the WSM in the suspension and axle section, everything you need to know including very good diagrams is in there. http://www.turbosupras.com/pages/en/pages/technical/a80tsrm.htm Edited August 29, 2011 by Dnk (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbie Posted August 29, 2011 Author Share Posted August 29, 2011 (edited) Thanks Dnk, Good source of info there! I've been out, jacked the car up to make sure the grease was emanating from where I first thought. If I pressed very hard with my hand I got a small amount of movement between the two metal casings. I tried the same on the other side but got no visible movement. I'm probably being thick but I'm just not sure which parts on the diagrams are the outer casing of driveshaft next to the hub So the quickest fix I can think of would be if someone has a nearside tt driveshaft. I believe as it's the short one so it has to be from a manual TT. It's got the large Diff and is a UK car. (Hopefully someone who's done this before can put me straight right here. Thanks in advance Rob Edited August 29, 2011 by Robbie (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted August 29, 2011 Share Posted August 29, 2011 (edited) Keron is breaking two U.K. models, maybe you should ask him if he has a "short one" and "can put you straight"? Edited August 29, 2011 by David P (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbie Posted August 29, 2011 Author Share Posted August 29, 2011 I don't know what you mean? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted August 29, 2011 Share Posted August 29, 2011 (edited) I don't know what you mean? Just in case you're not double-bluffing. Light heartedly informing you, that you stand a good chance of acquiring one of these 'rare' shafts from Keron. Edited August 29, 2011 by David P (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbie Posted August 29, 2011 Author Share Posted August 29, 2011 And there I was only expecting the cost of the repair to make me uncomfortable! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted August 29, 2011 Share Posted August 29, 2011 (edited) I have had three long shafts from him, yet there was very little discomfort at all. Edited August 29, 2011 by David P (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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