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Thinking of selling. whats it worth? (some pic's added)


super_supra

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Thinking of selling the supra don’t get to driver her much anymore plus got baby on the way in September and looking at moving house so need to sell the supra and free up some cash for the deposit on the new house. But every time I drive her I don’t want to sell but needs must .

 

How much do you think its worth? Was thinking around £10-11,000?

 

Facelift 1996 Black 6spd twin turbo

 

18” Advan AVS 5 wheels in need of refurb due to water getting under the lacquer. I also have a set of standard UK 17” wheels very good condition not fitted as i don’t have the correct wheel nuts for them.

 

UK spec brakes on the front with hel braided lines

 

Active spoiler

 

Traction control fully adjustable, with launch control

 

Adjustable boost settings

 

Greddy boost gauge

 

Aem air/fuel gauge

 

HKS super Dragger exhaust

 

Engine Spec

 

Twin IHI rx6 turbo’s

 

Twin Apexi wastegates (just been refurbished internally)

 

880cc Precision Fuel Injectors

Twin Walbro fuel pump

 

Chris Wilson side mount intercooler

 

HKS hard boost pipe’s

 

Solaris (Syvecs) ECU Mapped by Ryan.G

 

Triple plate Carbonetic clutch with lightened flywheel

 

HKS 246 cams, Whifbitz adjustable pulleys & gates racing cam belt (Not fitted yet)

 

Engine was running 502BHP last time it was mapped at 1.5bar,but had a boost leak on the wastegates that is now fixed hence the internally reconditioned wastegates, I have also fitted the clutch since being mapped I believe when cams are fitted and remapped should be 550-600BHP.

 

I ll put up some pics later

Cheers

Neil

Edited by super_supra (see edit history)
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Nasty wheels can impact the price a lot so I'd say either get them refurbed which isn't cheap these days at around £80 a wheel for normal paining and closer to £125 for diamond cut. My BBS wheels have cut rims that had blackening where water had go in so I got a few quotes that ranged from £350 for straight painting to £600 for the diamond cut refurb. All a little higher than I expected but I live in a rural area with not a lot of choice on where to go. I decided to spray the rims myself as the laquer hadn't bubbled or broken and although not perfect they look a hell of a lot better and I still have a lot of money in my pocket. So, it could be worthwhile you having a quick spray yourself and if it looks crap you haven't lost anything over getting a refurb done anyway and you would make your car more like a £10,000 motor which is top end price requiring top end looks and performance.

 

This little wheel paint episode served me well as I then tackled some pitting on one wheel arch that I was quoted £350 to sort out by a body shop. Did it myself and I'd give myself a 8 out or 10 for the job, I still have the £350 in my pocket and improving at the paint front all the time.

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Do you run it without air filters?

 

No i ve got some very very fine metal mesh/filter on them, i am half way through making pipe work up to mount 2 apexix filters but not got them to fit yet in the room i have left yet.

 

Dont think the turbos are maxed out at 600bhp but cant find much info i believe there good for 500-600bhp each but cant be sure if this is right or not.

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12k all day long i think, got some tasty goodies and some nice power

 

How can you value a facelift big twin supra with an S6 and triple carbon clutch so low??

 

A facelift 6spd is worth 9-10k all day long. 6spd VVti facelifts go for £12k.

 

I don't understand where some people get their valuations from.

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If it was a forsale thread i would not be posting in your thread, but as you are asking, i will :)

 

Not sure how anyone can price it without knowing things like how many miles its done and what sort of history the car has etc.

 

Interesting looking turbo kit, the air filter side of things would worry me as mesh is not going to stop dust eating your engine away, also the fact that the breather is left open does not look good, also 502bhp sounds low for 1.5bar on big twins, boost leak would make no difference to the 1.5 bar output.

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If it was a forsale thread i would not be posting in your thread, but as you are asking, i will :)

 

Not sure how anyone can price it without knowing things like how many miles its done and what sort of history the car has etc.

 

Interesting looking turbo kit, the air filter side of things would worry me as mesh is not going to stop dust eating your engine away, also the fact that the breather is left open does not look good, also 502bhp sounds low for 1.5bar on big twins, boost leak would make no difference to the 1.5 bar output.

 

It has 85k on the clock i have owned the car for 6 years now and serviced with silcoline pro s every year. the photo of the engine bay was taken just after i had fitted the turbos and piped everything up. There is a breather pipe fitted that leads to a catch tank with breather filter. i know the mesh filter is not the best this is why i started to fit the 2 apexi filters i ve just not got round to finishing it.

 

The power is better since the boost leak has been fix i could feel the when driving it, this i believe this because although the boost pressure is not increased the turbos and engine are not working as hard to produce the same boost pressure there for the engine is not wasting power.

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In order to warrant your power claims a dyno plot (ideally from SRR or TDI) would immensely help you in getting 15-16K for the car.

 

Looks like a lovely car with a clean engine bay. If you did the work yourself then I must say that I am impressed with your workmanship.

 

Love the attention to detail with the interior too. Try and get the latest pics uploaded cause its confusing (looking at two pics of the interior, one has the 2nd din compartment while the 2nd has a lovely control panel)

 

Try not to give it away for peanuts.

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As above. The valuation is based on the car being as it should be. There are some worrying features of your car that will effect its value significantly. I would recommend getting it finished, getting it verified and getting some proper shots of it all along with a full spec list before advertising it.

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IMO once a year oil changes are not enough for any turbo Supra. That and the fact they've been run without proper filters, I'd be wanting the engine stripped and inspected.

 

However, with that done, and some other small bits (fitting the UK wheels, getting rid of the fake carbon dash for new stock panels etc) I reckon £15k would be a fair starting point.

 

Lovely looking car :cool:

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Oil changes are down to mileage for me, not time. I would want to know what the yearly mileage was though. I only change my oil once per year, but I only do about 1000 miles a year so I think I'll be fine :)

 

I've always been taught that twice yearly is minimum on turbo cars. I changed the oil in my uk spec 4 times in 2006 :) (once when I picked the car up, just before I went on a 1500 mile trip round europe (Inc 2 days at the 'ring), when I got back from said trip and later in the year. Can't be too careful IMO.

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I've always been taught that twice yearly is minimum on turbo cars. I changed the oil in my uk spec 4 times in 2006 :) (once when I picked the car up, just before I went on a 1500 mile trip round europe (Inc 2 days at the 'ring), when I got back from said trip and later in the year. Can't be too careful IMO.

 

wow - wonder if that was with ester based fully synthetic oil - if so then you must have very deep pockets.

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I've always been taught that twice yearly is minimum on turbo cars. I changed the oil in my uk spec 4 times in 2006 :) (once when I picked the car up, just before I went on a 1500 mile trip round europe (Inc 2 days at the 'ring), when I got back from said trip and later in the year. Can't be too careful IMO.

 

Yeah, that's one of those "how big is your yardstick" things. I remember going through a thread on the IMOC forum over this very conversation. The oils that we buy are premium, well they should be, and they are designed to look after our engines very well. The engine wear, once broken in, of decent performance cars is at a minimum and most of the carbons are burned off in the engine as long as it is used a couple of times a week. Mileage dependant once per year is more than adequate. If you are doing 12k per year then I would definitely recommend twice per year as about 8k is the maximum I would take a car like this. When you are doing a limited mileage of 0-8k once per year is absolutely plenty.

 

There are obviously exceptions to this. I would ALWAYS recommend an oil change soon after any trackday or major 1/4 mile day. At these events if the engine is pushed the oil will be seeing high temps, as well as the coolant etc, and wear will be a little premature. For safetys sake I would always do a full service after such an event.

 

In JPs case I would probably recommend servicing every 3 months :D

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wow - wonder if that was with ester based fully synthetic oil - if so then you must have very deep pockets.

 

I can't remember what it was, but Opie spec'd and supplied it to me. I also fitted 4 TRD oil filters, new plugs, new discs, 2 sets of Porterfeild pads, caliper refurb all round, new brake and fuel pipes all round and had the transmission fluid done and 2 sets of tyres that year :D

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Yeah, that's one of those "how big is your yardstick" things. I remember going through a thread on the IMOC forum over this very conversation. The oils that we buy are premium, well they should be, and they are designed to look after our engines very well. The engine wear, once broken in, of decent performance cars is at a minimum and most of the carbons are burned off in the engine as long as it is used a couple of times a week. Mileage dependant once per year is more than adequate. If you are doing 12k per year then I would definitely recommend twice per year as about 8k is the maximum I would take a car like this. When you are doing a limited mileage of 0-8k once per year is absolutely plenty.

 

There are obviously exceptions to this. I would ALWAYS recommend an oil change soon after any trackday or major 1/4 mile day. At these events if the engine is pushed the oil will be seeing high temps, as well as the coolant etc, and wear will be a little premature. For safetys sake I would always do a full service after such an event.

 

In JPs case I would probably recommend servicing every 3 months :D

 

I agree with what you're saying, but my 2 turbo Supras were driven hard almost every day (at every opportunity :D ) and IMO that really deserves more regular changes.

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I agree with what you're saying, but my 2 turbo Supras were driven hard almost every day (at every opportunity :D ) and IMO that really deserves more regular changes.

 

Mileage matters more than time. Blasting it around the streets is a world apart from tracking the car though. At the end of the day you won't go wrong, but a lot of people are sold a false sense of needing to change the oil far more often than is actually required. This is both down to scaremongering and 'oneupsmanship' from members and people wanting to sell oil. Opie is one of the most honest companies I have seen. Have a chat with them about it :)

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All the work has been done by my self apart from the fitting and mapping of the ECU which was done by ryan.G i also have dyno print out from SRR.

It did not have active spoiler when i first got the car but i fitted one, and it all works

 

i changed the oil every 3000-4000 mile or each year if they aint done that milage that goes for all my cars the supra dont't do meany miles each year and i dont run it over the winter as it is my second car,apart from the first year i had the car in 2005, it was my only car.

The car was imported and regersted feb 1999 with 13670 on the clock the guy i brought it off, brought it august 1999 and told me he was the first uk owner and had it untill i brought it of him. i have all mots to prove milage.

 

 

feb 1999 13670 miles

dec 2000 36621 miles

sep 2002 53893 miles

aug 2003 64266 miles

aug 2004-nov 2005 car was of the road untill i brought

 

november 2005 68337miles (this is when i brought the car)

November 2006 (did not MOT because did not use over winter)

April 2007 79421 miles

april 2008 81366 miles

april 2009 82813 miles

april 2010 84019 miles

april 2011 85220 miles

 

Thanks for all your comments i think from what has been said i ll fit the cams finish the fitting of the air filters and get it remapped by ryan.G with print out of the final power out put, then take some nice new pitures and put her up for sale.

 

Thanks again

Neil

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wow - wonder if that was with ester based fully synthetic oil - if so then you must have very deep pockets.

 

 

I used to work in oil product development for an oil major and I can't recall there being any ester based automotive oils other than 2 stroke. Up to 15 years ago synthethic oils were based upon polyalpaholefins, these are synthetic products that are chemically very stable and so maintained important physical properties for an extended period of time, chiefly viscosity stability across a wide temperature range coupled with low volatility; both of which are related. Around 15 years ago synthetic oils moved to highly refined mineral oils for the base, basically a very narrow fraction that has high viscosity integrity and doesn't contain light ends, meaning it retains it's viscosity. This switch to HVI mineral oils lowered the base cost by 65%, though this was never reflected in the price charged for synthetic oils.

 

The longevity of oils is a function of the additive performance and that is why OEM's can now spec in up to 20K miles change intervals. Additive technology has moved on leaps and bounds in the last 20 years - since the Surpa was designed. So, when Supra TT's oil is changed after 4500 miles you may as well package it up and sell it on Ebay as near new oil or have the oil companies smiling all the way to the recycling bank.

Edited by rider (see edit history)
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