Scott Posted August 19, 2011 Share Posted August 19, 2011 As above, I'm taking out the stock minature oil cooler and therefor need a hose to replace the 2 hoses that connected to it. Anyone that's done this got any pointers as to where to get a hose to suit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bailey. Posted August 19, 2011 Share Posted August 19, 2011 This is what I did with mine, managed to get the tiny kink out in the end, but you get the idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hodge Posted August 19, 2011 Share Posted August 19, 2011 Use an N/A water pipe instead of a TT one. It just runs up the turbo side of the engine. This will iliminate 1 side. The pipe coming out of the block just screws out. I took it out cut the pipe off, welded the hole in the centre of the nut and replaced it. There's detailed pics in my project thread somewhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted August 19, 2011 Author Share Posted August 19, 2011 Use an N/A water pipe instead of a TT one. It just runs up the turbo side of the engine. This will iliminate 1 side. The pipe coming out of the block just screws out. I took it out cut the pipe off, welded the hole in the centre of the nut and replaced it. There's detailed pics in my project thread somewhere. Will that not reduce the flow around the head though? No disadvantage by deleting the feed at that side? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bailey. Posted August 19, 2011 Share Posted August 19, 2011 Will that not reduce the flow around the head though? No disadvantage by deleting the feed at that side? This was my only concern. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hodge Posted August 19, 2011 Share Posted August 19, 2011 Not at all. Due to the bleeding issues supras have I wanted to remove every unwanted waterline. It's worked very well for me so far. I also cut off and welded up the water pipe on the side of the head. The only flow you need really is from pump, around the engine and through the rad. Reducing the amount of pipes the coolant has to flow through can only be a good think IMO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hodge Posted August 19, 2011 Share Posted August 19, 2011 In my project thread, check out page 44-48. There's plenty of pics there of what I've done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted August 19, 2011 Author Share Posted August 19, 2011 In my project thread, check out page 44-48. There's plenty of pics there of what I've done. Magic, thanks mate. I'll have a look Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pedrosixfour Posted August 19, 2011 Share Posted August 19, 2011 (edited) Scott, Chris Wilson told me to cap both ends of the remaining pipework as running a hose between the two reduces the efficiency of the radiator due to the lack of a restriction in that circuit once the cooler is deleted. But he also told me to attack my sandwich plate with a grinder to improve oil flow, just so you are aware of Chris' attention to the little details that most of us wouldn't even notice! Edited August 19, 2011 by pedrosixfour (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted August 19, 2011 Author Share Posted August 19, 2011 Scott, Chris Wilson told me to cap both ends of the remaining pipework as running a hose between the two reduces the efficiency of the radiator. But he also told me to attack my sandwich plate with a grinder to improve oil flow, just so you are aware of Chris' attention to the little details that most of us wouldn't even notice! Magic, that backs up Johns opinion on it all Just to be sure, he was definitely referring to the oil cooler and not to the heater matrix? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pedrosixfour Posted August 19, 2011 Share Posted August 19, 2011 Magic, that backs up Johns opinion on it all Just to be sure, he was definitely referring to the oil cooler and not to the heater matrix? Positively certain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted August 19, 2011 Author Share Posted August 19, 2011 Magic. I'm just going to totally chop my current pipe. No matter what one I go for I'm going to have to fab it so I'll just go with the one I have I'm removing the manifold coolant lines too, will there be any downfall with that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bailey. Posted August 19, 2011 Share Posted August 19, 2011 Chris commented on mine and said that would be a ok, oh well at least you got to the bottom of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted August 19, 2011 Author Share Posted August 19, 2011 Chris commented on mine and said that would be a ok, oh well at least you got to the bottom of it. I can't really see it being an issue to be honest. He maybe recommended the other way to save having to find a hose that fits Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bailey. Posted August 19, 2011 Share Posted August 19, 2011 I can't really see it being an issue to be honest. He maybe recommended the other way to save having to find a hose that fits ahh probably right scott, i already had the hose and put the pic up above just asking if it was ok. The builds coming along nicely, im keeping a close eye on it for updates:eyebrows: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pedrosixfour Posted August 19, 2011 Share Posted August 19, 2011 Chris commented on mine and said that would be a ok, oh well at least you got to the bottom of it. It may be because mine is a dedicated track car and needs all the cooling it can get! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hodge Posted August 19, 2011 Share Posted August 19, 2011 Just to add to this, you WILL need a thermostatically controlled sandwich plate to a cooler so your oil gets to the correct engine temp before it flows to the cooler to be cooled. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bailey. Posted August 19, 2011 Share Posted August 19, 2011 Just to add to this, you WILL need a thermostatically controlled sandwich plate to a cooler so your oil gets to the correct engine temp before it flows to the cooler to be cooled. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted August 19, 2011 Author Share Posted August 19, 2011 Just to add to this, you WILL need a thermostatically controlled sandwich plate to a cooler so your oil gets to the correct engine temp before it flows to the cooler to be cooled. Yup got a mocal one coming Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hodge Posted August 20, 2011 Share Posted August 20, 2011 Good call Scotty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted August 20, 2011 Share Posted August 20, 2011 Blanking off both sides will give better cooling, any flow between the two pipes will lessen flow through the rad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwilkinson Posted August 20, 2011 Share Posted August 20, 2011 Scott I'm doing the same on my engine build. I have the extended stud needed to remove the stock oil cooler and was slowly thinking about all the old cooling pipe work around the engine. I will have a look at Hodges build but can I ask you detail this in depth on your build thread so that I can copy you Will save me a right headache. With regards to the thermostatic oil plate someone mentioned a "grinder"? What's one of these? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hodge Posted August 20, 2011 Share Posted August 20, 2011 You don't need an extended bolt. Remove the whole thing and fit an N/A filter housing without the cooler. Either that or remove the cooler and filter housing all together as I have now done and bolted the sandwich plate direct to the block. I used a whiffbitz adaptor threaded bolt for this. Was only 12 quid delivered Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted August 20, 2011 Author Share Posted August 20, 2011 As above, I'm using the whifbitz adapter bolt also. Yeah I can detail it in the build mate. THere won't really be a lot of details though, I'm just gonna take the coolant pipe off and chop it in half, then have the hole welded up. Sophistication is my middle name The one issue you may find is that I'm taking the head off. I don't think there is any easy way to get that pipe out without doing that. I'll have a look and see if I can shuffle it up the back of the head though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hodge Posted August 20, 2011 Share Posted August 20, 2011 The head doesn't need to come off to remove the water pipe. Just take the water lines off to the matrix undo the nuts on the back of the pump and 2 10mm bolts under the intake that hold the pipe to the block and slide it over the head. Simples :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.