JamieP Posted August 13, 2011 Share Posted August 13, 2011 Had problems with my clutch all day at suprapod, i only got a few clean runs. The peddle kept getting stuck on the floor, really slow to come back up, seemed ok if i took it slow but soon as i hammered it it would get stuck down again. It got worse as the day went on and i had to give up after it happening 4 times in a row. Ive had something similar before and it turned out to be a twisted main shaft on the box. Any other ideas as to what it could be? Cheers Jamie. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattysupra Posted August 13, 2011 Share Posted August 13, 2011 I take it you have covered the simply things like air in the system? I had similar issue on my Skyline. Once clutch was hot the pedal was getting stuck to the floor. It was air that was expanding with heat and pushing the slave back but pedal was stuck. O and worse when giving it some as the extra heat build up around the box and engine. Strange that the clutch pedal; felt normal tho when driving it sensible. I have also had the same issue on a Audi. It was caused by excess clutch dust bulid up on the input shaft that was slowing the realse bearing from travelling back to position. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark newman Posted August 13, 2011 Share Posted August 13, 2011 Excuses just joking, Maybe air in system? It might need bleeding . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieP Posted August 13, 2011 Author Share Posted August 13, 2011 Ive not touched the car yet, just looking for ideas as for what to look at before we pull the box, cheers. Excuses just joking, Maybe air in system, needs bleading . Following you home i had to lift the peddle with my foot every time i put my foot down, was getting real bad, still fine if driven slow though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark newman Posted August 13, 2011 Share Posted August 13, 2011 yes, I think that it would be air, when it get hot expands in the this is what happend to me ,last time at the pod. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieP Posted August 13, 2011 Author Share Posted August 13, 2011 Cheers, will look at that to start with then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GazB Posted August 13, 2011 Share Posted August 13, 2011 I'm having a similar problem, when clutch is worked hard or gets hot it disappears. I changed clutch fluid and fitted an heat shield around master cylinder. When i tried bleading the clutch fluid through the system the peddle was stopped at floor level, i then decided to swap slave cylinders, new MrT one fitted, still does the same. Next step was to fit a new master cylinder. Ryan did note this when he was mapping on RR, he suggested i fitted a n/a slave cylinder with more travel. I'm now thinking my clutch is slipping since it was remapped with more torque and power so the dissapearing clutch is a side issue Just got to decide which clutch system to get I've had 2 HKS twin plates and only done less than 5k miles so this time what ever i get will have to work and last. Its not an easy solution getting a road/drag clutch a bit like suspension systems nothing really does both properly. Good look with sorting your problem and keep us posted, also well done today with a 10.1 using a knackered clutch, no wondered you didn't do a 1.5/1.6 60ft time and get into the 9's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieP Posted August 13, 2011 Author Share Posted August 13, 2011 Cheers for the advice Gaz, will let you know what we find. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crouch Posted August 13, 2011 Share Posted August 13, 2011 Had this problem on the HKS tripple clutch i pulled out not long ago(don't know what you have) really annoying you'd be in traffic go to pull away lift your foot and nothing pedal on the floor then all of a sudden "twang" stall and you look like a numpty! Happened maybe 8 times or more but despite the clutch being supposidly new it slipped on high boost so ripped it out and installed a twin plate carbonetic and now half the travel and no issue's at all! I'm going to get the carbonetic tripple for the new engine to and leave the twin on my spare 612hp engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted August 13, 2011 Share Posted August 13, 2011 The only hydraulic issue I can think of is a sludged up master cylinder. I would say if the pedal is not returning *AND* you have clutch slip it's probably mechanical. Seeing the grunt your car had today I think you need to look at a different gearbox and axle assembly. It needs a spool, probably a much bigger / stronger CWP and casing, and a serious gearbox, probably a Lenco or a proper drag spec auto. Awesome power, let down by traction issues and I am sure the drivetrain is glad to be asleep back in your garage, resting Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieP Posted August 13, 2011 Author Share Posted August 13, 2011 Not getting any clutch slip, sticking down aside it all felt good, seems a few people have had this issue so hopefully a simple fix. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted August 13, 2011 Share Posted August 13, 2011 I'd install a concentric release mechanism and use race fluid in the clutch hydraulics. Concentric give a much better and more even pedal modulation, and is just "better" altogether. Caveat is if it's a pull type clutch, then you can't use a concentric release set up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieP Posted August 13, 2011 Author Share Posted August 13, 2011 Thats all straight over my head Chris (fluid aside) but thanks for the input, hopefully Lee will know what you mean. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pistol pete Posted August 13, 2011 Share Posted August 13, 2011 i know mine is a lowly NA.. but i had exactly the same issue... was the master cylinder on mine... just watched a vids.. cars looked awesome today wish i was there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neil Posted August 14, 2011 Share Posted August 14, 2011 hi m8 it could be the clutch bearing relice arm bent Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kirk Posted August 14, 2011 Share Posted August 14, 2011 (edited) Thats all straight over my head Chris (fluid aside) but thanks for the input, hopefully Lee will know what you mean. Its basically an all in one release mech which combines the slave and release bearing into one and eliminates the clutch fork. The stock 6 speed uses a pull type mechanism so i dont think its a viable fix although OS Giken do a conversion kit for this. http://www.rhdjapan.com/os-giken-push-pull-movement-conversion-kit-10885 Edited August 14, 2011 by Kirk (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted August 14, 2011 Share Posted August 14, 2011 Giken, for one, ditches the pull type clutch assembly and uses a conventional twin or triple plate push clutch release. They sell an adaptor kit to convert the pull of the stock mechanism to push, but pivoted arms, and bearings sliding on the nose of the gearbox input shaft tube, with external slave cylinders are from the past, concentric release is unbelievably nicer to use, especially on heavily sprung race clutches. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan.G Posted August 14, 2011 Share Posted August 14, 2011 I'm sure the input shaft and pivot arm just need lubricating as most people forget to do this but it clearly states in the getrag manual to do it. I use Arp assembly lube Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieP Posted August 14, 2011 Author Share Posted August 14, 2011 EDIT, ignore me, sorry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted August 14, 2011 Share Posted August 14, 2011 RPS working in microns. I don't think so, somehow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieP Posted August 14, 2011 Author Share Posted August 14, 2011 Im half asleep and its a different issue, ive emailed RPS, see what they come back with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suprab1 Posted August 14, 2011 Share Posted August 14, 2011 I was getting the same problem, changed the master cylinder & 2 year trouble free since. Hopefully your problem is something simple like this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieP Posted August 15, 2011 Author Share Posted August 15, 2011 Lot of people over the pond say you need to fit a clutch stop, stop the peddle going right to the floor on gear changes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian C Posted August 16, 2011 Share Posted August 16, 2011 Lot of people over the pond say you need to fit a clutch stop, stop the peddle going right to the floor on gear changes. Doesn't that usually guarantee it's absolutely the wrong thing to do Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
foodfreak Posted August 16, 2011 Share Posted August 16, 2011 Hi Jamie, I had something similar once with my RPS, it was the pivot for the clutch fork in the belhousing that had cracked. get Lee to have a look through the inspection plate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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