djg99 Posted July 27, 2011 Author Share Posted July 27, 2011 Not reAly sure think it was black and smelt like burning!!!! Cheers wiggy may before as need my boost controller fitted ;-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marc_p Posted July 27, 2011 Share Posted July 27, 2011 Not reAly sure think it was black and smelt like burning!!!! Cheers wiggy may before as need my boost controller fitted ;-) Sounds about right, how long did it run for before you switched it off? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TT Paul Posted July 27, 2011 Share Posted July 27, 2011 Not reAly sure think it was black and smelt like burning!!!! Cheers wiggy may before as need my boost controller fitted ;-) easily done just copy my piping , job done few wires sorted ... brake cleaner to remove oil as it drys off quick not on hot eng though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swampy442 Posted July 27, 2011 Share Posted July 27, 2011 Cheers Chris and the others who said it was the crank sensor! Youre welcome!! Can you hear an exhaust blow? If not let the car run to burn off the crap on the exhaust Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian C Posted July 27, 2011 Share Posted July 27, 2011 If you've fitted new exhaust gaskets, they can cook off for the first couple of times they warm up. Exhaust wrap is a mobile smokescreen as well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheTurtleshead Posted July 27, 2011 Share Posted July 27, 2011 If you have rebuilt the engine, I presume you will have had it glaze busted or honed and fitted new piston rings? Dont worry if its kicking out lots of blue smoke, it will do until you bed the rings in properly. Its worth making sure you know the proper procedure to bed everything in. If you dont do it properly, then the engine will never have proper compression. Its worth asking a trader such as whifbitz/chris wilson/LeeP, on the proper procedure. I myself would; Not let it idle, you will 'glaze' it up. Make sure your running it on some cheap mineral oil for the first 250 miles. If its not overheating/leaking/everything works. Just take it out and drive it, just to get it to stop belching blue smoke, I would accelerate to about 5k revs in first and second, slow, and repeat. Then once your more confident in it, give it a bit of sh*t in the first 20 miles to get it to bed properly. Im not sure on the exact rev values/ miles you should use, I just guessed, and mine has been perfect Good luck. Also dont worry about the smell, all rebuilt engines have a specific slightly 'burny' smell lol, for the first few miles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djg99 Posted August 4, 2011 Author Share Posted August 4, 2011 (edited) After being Ill for the last ten days I finally got out of me pit and into the garage, started her up, all the smoke went after 5 mins and all the warning lights stayed out and theres no leaks so I'm well happy, also forgot how good she sounded :-) The only problem I've got now is over heating. Guess I have some air in the system as it's a new rad :-) but I'm almost there now!!! Edited August 4, 2011 by djg99 (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djg99 Posted August 6, 2011 Author Share Posted August 6, 2011 Ok after reading up on how to get the air out of the system i find the car is still over heating, i have found a small leak from where the sensor fits into my rad is it worth replacing this sensor and could this be the cause. I've read loads of threads but still not sure!!!anyone have the code for this sensor so i can order a new one please???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted August 6, 2011 Share Posted August 6, 2011 Unless water is pouring out it won't be the cause of the overheating. Tell us properly how, and when the overheating manifests itself. Idling? Gentle driving? Hard driving? Tell us ALL about ANY mods to the cooling system. Does it lose water, apart from what I presume is a trickle from the temp sensor for the electric fan in the bottom tank of the rad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djg99 Posted August 6, 2011 Author Share Posted August 6, 2011 Ok after it's been on idle for 3 or four minutes the temp gauge starts going up steadily to over half way and further which is when I then turn off the engine. Mods to the car apart from the rebuild is a new rad and fmic and a second hand air con rad. All fans are still present and havnt been remove. Also top hose is polished hard pipe. No other sign of any leaks other then a slight drip from the sensor located in the rad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted August 6, 2011 Share Posted August 6, 2011 Let it run a bit longer at idle, leave the rad cap off, top up occasionally, see if it LITERALLY boils, turn off immediately if it does. Do not top with cold water once boiling, just leave it switched off to calm down for an hour. Watch carefully to see if the electric fan cuts in before it boils. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djg99 Posted August 6, 2011 Author Share Posted August 6, 2011 Ok cool will have a go tomorrow. Thanks for the advice :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted August 6, 2011 Share Posted August 6, 2011 Let's hope it is cool for you Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djg99 Posted August 7, 2011 Author Share Posted August 7, 2011 Ok went back down to the car the level in the rad had dropped a little so topped it up. Started the car up and let it idle for over ten minutes with the rad cap off, only topping up the level a couple of times. The temp gauge slowly went up but didn't go above half way like it had before. No sign of boiling eithet. Still had the heaters in the car on and up but the inside did not heat up. Also after the engine was turned off the fan didn't kick in. Letting it cool down again now. Should I put cap back on and see what happens??? :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted August 7, 2011 Share Posted August 7, 2011 Yes, sounds OK for now, report back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djg99 Posted August 7, 2011 Author Share Posted August 7, 2011 Let it run for another ten minutes with the cap on and it stayed half way again. Plus I now have some heat from the heaters in the car so well happy. Thanks Chris. Still no fan kicking in tho but with test that with a second hand one I have kicking around ;-) time to get bumper on and lights and go for a drive :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted August 7, 2011 Share Posted August 7, 2011 (edited) The electic fan should *NOT* come on unless it gets pretty damned hot, so a good sign. Top up coolant again tomorrow, if it has dropped much, and take for a test drive. Do not continue if the stock gauge gets up very near the red. Take a friend with a tow car, or have patience to let it cool, and some water to replenish with, if it gets mad hot, or stay very near base Sounds like it's pretty OK to me. Good luck again. Edited August 7, 2011 by Chris Wilson (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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