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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

removing woodruff key from crank and replacing FMS


spiderpigcity

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The fact it's tight is very good news indeed, if it were loose, or worse, loose in a worn key way, it would show the damper had been run un-torqued. Tap one end of the key down and the other should rise up. Then pull it right out with small grips. I can't remember, but I thought the seal would pass over an installed Woodruff key? If it will I'd suggest you leave it in place, and in peace.

Edited by Chris Wilson
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The fact it's tight is very good news indeed, if it were loose, or worse, loose in a worn key way, it would show the damper had been run un-torqued. Tap one end of the key down and the other should rise up. Then pull it right out with small grips. I can't remember, but I thought the seal would pass over an installed Woodruff key? If it will I'd suggest you leave it place, and in peace.

 

yes Chris, the seal does pass over the key. so you don't need to remove the key. I bought another front key from toyota so i replaced it anyway. The FMS was dry with no oil on the timing belt or anywhere around the seal (this is what confused me in the first place). However i thought at first that it was the oil pump gasket under the seal that was leaking but i noticed there is a drain hole in the casting under the seal and this is where the oil was coming from. The oil pump has blue gasket sealer all the way around and the aluminium casting looks quite new, so it looks like i have a new oil pump. I replaced the fms only inserting it flush with the oil pump facing. I hope this has done the trick. We will see tmrw.

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Hi there mate,

 

Done mine a few weeks ago. You have to be carefully with removing the 2 keys as you don't want to damage the keyway. Dont hercules a flat screwdriver in there, what I did was:

 

Take a small wood chisel and cut it at approx. 4cm from the tip, now you lay the piece flat on the crank with the chamfered side facing the key. The chamfered side must be facing upwards, now take your hammer and carefully tap the backside of the chisel piece. You will see that the chisel slowly will force out the key perfectly.

 

When putting it all together don't forget to apply MP grease to the oil seal lip:P and that it must be 'flush' with the oil pump body.

 

cheers

 

I got it out by tapping gently with a punch and eventually it came up. The problem is there is not a lot of room and you have to be careful not to damage the air con rad.

 

I did lubricate the outer seal first and then used my fingers only to start the seal off and then a socket to apply light pressure to drive it square and flush. I did take my time with it as you can easily push it too far in.

 

thanks

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Here is a picture of the Keyway and the oil dripping from the casting above.[ATTACH=CONFIG]135248[/ATTACH]

 

That is not really possible, the only way oil can be dripping there is if the ally has gone porous !!!! the oil drain hole passes behind that thru the solid part of the pump, also the blue stuff sounds like Hylomar, the pump should have a good quality RTV used as a sealant and not blue hylomar.

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