Neil-NA Posted June 27, 2011 Share Posted June 27, 2011 Right sorry for the retarded way that i am going to describe this. When i have been for a long drive and i stop (say at lights) and i take it out of gear when i then go to put it in 1st it sometimes clunks and feels like it has just jumped forward ever so slightly, it may just be me but it also feels ever so slightly harder to get into gear, but still goes in nice and smoothly. The box is a W58 and the diff is the TorSen LSD, both had the oil changed less than a year ago to Motul stuff. There is no whining from the box and i know the diffs are quite clunky but is there anything else i should check? It had a new exedy clutch and release bearing fitted a year ago and the only noise coming from the area is the release bearing which sqweeks (sp) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh Posted June 27, 2011 Share Posted June 27, 2011 Mine does the same as well. After a drive, once warmed up, if I am on the drive (flat) with no brakes on and put it into 1st, it makes a bang sound and the car moves forward slightly. I assumed it was a characteristic of the gearbox and possibly something to do with the uprated clutch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil-NA Posted June 27, 2011 Author Share Posted June 27, 2011 After a quick search it looks like it could be low gearbox oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted June 27, 2011 Share Posted June 27, 2011 Nothing whatsoever to do with oil level, it will be a clutch not releasing fully, probably an after market one. If it's a stock one, either the clutch itself is knackered, or the master or slave cylinders are worn or incorrect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil-NA Posted June 27, 2011 Author Share Posted June 27, 2011 Nothing whatsoever to do with oil level, it will be a clutch not releasing fully, probably an after market one. If it's a stock one, either the clutch itself is knackered, or the master or slave cylinders are worn or incorrect. It had a new clutch 1 year ago and ive done 2500 mile of drving to work, sorry for being stupid but why would the master/slave cylinder affect it only when its been on a long drive? (as you can tell im not well up on how stuff works) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted June 27, 2011 Share Posted June 27, 2011 The clutch fluid heats up and gets thinner, the seals get softer, and any poor sealing is likely to be worse. The clutch itself obviously gets hotter and things expand. Is it a stock Toyota clutch, Neil? It will definitely be some sort of clutch release issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil-NA Posted June 27, 2011 Author Share Posted June 27, 2011 Yes it was an stock exedy replacement. is there any way of me checking the master and slave cylinderrs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh Posted June 27, 2011 Share Posted June 27, 2011 I think mine would be due to the uprated clutch as the clutch starts to bite as soon as the pedal is lifted at all and it has to be all the way to the floor before it'll go into gear. May need adjusting (if possible) or maybe it's just the way it is (not sure what clutch it is). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted June 27, 2011 Share Posted June 27, 2011 Yes it was an stock exedy replacement. is there any way of me checking the master and slave cylinderrs? Exedy don't make the stock clutch, do they? I meant stock as in bought from Toyota. There's no easy check, either renew the cylinders or fit seal kits if the bores are PERFECT. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil-NA Posted June 27, 2011 Author Share Posted June 27, 2011 I will look at the master/slave cylinders 1st, will be doing the release bearing soon so will get the clutch looked at to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil-NA Posted June 27, 2011 Author Share Posted June 27, 2011 Just had a quick look at the master cylinder, can someone tell me if its normal to have a plastic button like thing floating around in the fluid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil-NA Posted June 27, 2011 Author Share Posted June 27, 2011 Just had a quick look at the master cylinder, can someone tell me if its normal to have a plastic button like thing floating around in the fluid. Ignore this lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted June 27, 2011 Share Posted June 27, 2011 Just had a quick look at the master cylinder, can someone tell me if its normal to have a plastic button like thing floating around in the fluid. It is, yes, quite normal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bodilx6 Posted June 28, 2011 Share Posted June 28, 2011 I have the V160 and also get a "clunk" once in a while when slotting into 1st. No forward motion though. Running Chris's uprated stock clutch. I just figured that it was one of the funky quirks with the V160. Interesting that the W58 box also has noises. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil-NA Posted June 28, 2011 Author Share Posted June 28, 2011 I only noticed it after a 30 mile trip on the motorway, its not a big clunk, i can just feel it slightly. Might just wait till after suprapod as im likely to kill the box or clutch there anyways Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Little Matt Posted June 29, 2011 Share Posted June 29, 2011 Problems decribed are clutch dis-engagement problems. Check clutch fluid levels and bleed first of all. Pedals can be adjusted to move bite point. There's a screw on the piston into the master with a nut that holds it tight to the pedal. It's a 10/12mm nut, undo it and wind the pedal out, if that makes sense. Will move the bite point off the floor. Nice awkward access getting underneath the steering column. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil-NA Posted June 29, 2011 Author Share Posted June 29, 2011 (edited) Fluid is right on the min mark on the master cylinder if that helps any. Is it also normal to be able to rattle the master cylinder around in your hand? Edited June 29, 2011 by Neil-NA (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted June 29, 2011 Share Posted June 29, 2011 Fluid is right on the min mark on the master cylinder if that helps any. Is it also normal to be able to rattle the master cylinder around in your hand? No, the master cylinder should be firmly bolted to the bulkhead.You MUST have free play in the master cylinder pushrod, so if you decide to adjust the pushrod as Matt above rightly suggests is possible, DO NOT adjust it longer to the point where there's no free play at all. Doing that results in the release bearing being in permanent contact with the clutch fingers, and it will be doing engine RPM all the time and will fail quite quickly. About 3mm play is the absolute minimum you need Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Little Matt Posted June 29, 2011 Share Posted June 29, 2011 I would get your fluid topped up and bleed the clutch off the slave cylinder nipple. (10mm nut and will need two of you), as my first port of call. Master cylinder should be tight to the bulkhead, two 10mm nuts again. Rod will move about a little bit. As Chris says, don't unwind it too far. I think though, a simple fluid top up and bleed will solve your problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil-NA Posted June 29, 2011 Author Share Posted June 29, 2011 Thanks guys will have a go later and report back. Wonder if thats why my release bearing started to make noises after 500 miles or so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil-NA Posted June 29, 2011 Author Share Posted June 29, 2011 If i am driving down the road and all i can hear is the release bearing squeking (how do you spell that damn word) does that mean that as Chris puts it the release bearing being in permanent contact with the clutch fingers? if so is that clutch adjustment using the rod needed? I have around 5mm free movement (at the end of the clutch pedal) and when hot the fluid in the master cylinder is just on the min line. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Little Matt Posted June 29, 2011 Share Posted June 29, 2011 Get the clutch fluid topped up as a priority and bleed the system through. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil-NA Posted June 30, 2011 Author Share Posted June 30, 2011 Right i am getting some help later to bleed the clutch and then using DOT4 before i go messing with pedal adjustment. But can someone just clear something up, looking at the rod adjustment and freeplay (cl-2) in this link - http://www.turbosupras.com/pdfs/JZA80%20TSRM/CL.pdf I have 5mm 'pushrod play' but dont think i have 'pedal freeplay' What is the difference between the 2, if i push the clutch in there is a tiny bit of resistance for 5mm or so (due to the spring on the pedal) and then i get alot of resistance after that, i take it that is pushrod play and not pedal freeplay? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted June 30, 2011 Share Posted June 30, 2011 Adjust the pushrod so at the pedal pad you have about 5 to 10 mm free movement before it stiffens (when the bearing starts pushing (or pulling on pull type clutches) on the clutch cover fingers. What DOT fluid you use won't matter, there's no real heat involved in the system, unlike brakes. You said the master cylinder was loose, has tightening that back up not helped? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil-NA Posted July 3, 2011 Author Share Posted July 3, 2011 It was the plastic bottle that you can move around a little quite easily. I bled the clutch the other night on the 1st press of the clutch when bleeding next to no oil came out, so im guessing that was a big air bubble, might just be me but the gears seem easier to get now when its warm, the rod now needs adjusting i think as there seems a bit more play than before but i will check the measurements on tuesday. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.