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dr_jekyll

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i know i'm talking to people with infinitely more experience than me. But the "Earls wide" 34 row cooler is 9" x 10.5" and the SMIC is 9"x11" so I would have thought it would be a reasonable fit in the space opposite the SMIC?

 

 

So long as you duct air to it it will be more than adequate. Look how small the aperture is in the stock bumper compared to the area of the SMIC. They use the expansion ratio of the duct to slow the air down, and INCREASE efficiency. Making (neat) ducts is a PITA, unless you are good at making moulds and using composites. A fabricated ally sheet one is a possibility, but the aperture in the bumper is not a regular shape. You need to exit the air, similar to the louvred liner in the RH wheel arch.

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  • 3 weeks later...
thats some great info chris. atb the moment i run as much camber os the cam loeb adjusters allow and i toe the fronts in 2 deg to make the nose fell as "pointy" as possible i do want to change alot on the car but itl have to be done over a period as ever with having to use money for otheing silly things like food and bills :(

 

 

Why toe OUT helps turn in:

 

Cars do generally exhibit quicker initial turn-in with static toe-out. This does not have to do with the lateral (y axis, per SAE convention) forces from the front tyres, but rather the longitudinal (x axis) forces, which can also produce yaw moments.

 

When the car is running straight, and the front tyres have either toe-in or toe-out, the tyres are both running at a slight slip angle, and accordingly generating both some lateral forces and some drag forces. The drag forces are roughly equal, and additive. The lateral forces are roughly equal, and opposite in direction, so they approximately cancel.

 

When the steering wheel is turned just a tiny bit, one front wheel will be running straight, and the other will be turned into the corner, generating a bit of drag, and some lateral force into the corner.

 

If the car has toe-in, it will be the inside front wheel that’s running straight, and the outside one that has some slip angle. In this condition, the lateral force creates a yaw moment into the turn, but the drag force creates a yaw moment out of the turn: the two yaw moment components are subtractive.

 

If the car has toe-out, it will be the outside front wheel that’s running straight, and the inside one that’s making lateral force and drag force. Now the lateral force and the drag force both create yaw

moments into the corner, and are additive. Consequently, the net yaw moment is greater, and the car experiences a greater yaw acceleration: it turns in quicker.

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i see ( i actually think i understand :) ) so basicly with toe in the opsite force of the inside wheel being straight will cancell out the the thrust of the outside wheel turning in and cause a slower turn in responce but with ote out the inside wheel will be turning in whle the outside wheel is straight causing a faster turn in responce ?

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superb, so onto the rear of the car. im having traction issues out of slower corners at the moment. so much so i spent most of round 3 yeterday sidways and bakwards. the car goes through medium and high speed turns wel and feels stable but slower 2nd gear exits are bad , i have to be sooooo painfully soft on the throttle its costing me lots of time and even when the car straightens up im geting too much spin.

 

its not a particularly powerfull car so what coul help remidy this , ive tryed softening the rear dampers but it spoilt the car in the faster bends . is it just a compramise ill have tolive with ?

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10kg springs on adjustable oil filled dampers there is about 15mm of lift before the wheels come up. cost is allways the problem.

i have to try and get the best of what i have or can scrape on a budgit but i think i can get better traction than this. the diff is actually the 3.7 torsion in place of the the 4.2 on a w58 , i thaught this would have curbed it evin if making the car slightly sower on accelaration but it was not the case

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10kg/mm is about 560lb/in for the oldies :D About the same as my fronts! (road car though).

 

Your droop may be lacking (ooo-er!) so the inside tyre will unload and reduce your overall rear end grip as the weight transfers to the outside tyre (Chris gave me some pointers on this a while back when I was faffing around with rear tyre fitments). I have about 6" droop from nominal ride height till the wheel lifts - this is jacked up fully....what's yours like?

Droop.jpg

Edited by dandan (see edit history)
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FAR FAR too little droop in the rear dampers, you need at least 50 mm, preferably a lot more. So, if you want to run very stiff springs they either need to be progressive, or single rate with a tender, or more than one tender springs. Rear springs are about 560 lbs inch, which is far too stiff without a proper LSD.

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Interesting thread, so Im in on this ;)

 

Also interesting someone mentioned about oil coolers as I've just fitted an oil temo gauge to mine and noticed after a sessions drift the temps would rise to around 120/130, which I thought maybe was too high. Depsite drifting generally running revs high constantly, we usually only do one or two runs before having a break, but guess I do really need an oil cooler.

 

http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/285459_2085902781491_1062787818_32290538_7697121_n.jpg

 

And this is her in action :D

 

http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/284420_2086124587036_1062787818_32291027_7417536_n.jpg

Edited by Suprash (see edit history)
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  • 2 weeks later...

ok , so with round 4 next week i have played with the rear suspension . it now has 60mm of droop but still feel nice and firm with little roll , havent been able to give it a proper test yet but but fingers crossed it will be better.

 

also going with a twin pump and fpr this week so hopefully can make some good power soon

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Couple of questions for the resident experts.

 

I stripped the entire heater out of the car and simply joined the 2 heater pipes together at the back of the 2JZ-GE to complete the cooling circuit.

 

Can anyone point me towards the same two pipes on the 1JZ TT so I can do the same?

 

Also I have a Whifbitz 25 row engine oil cooler kit on it's way from Ryan G, question is what is the procedure for removing the stock water fed cooler properly, what needs blanking and/or re-routing?

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You need to make a small male / male externally threaded adaptor to go in the threaded oil feed in the block, and mount a thermostatically controlled sandwich plate on here. The oil filter screws on to the sandwich plate, and the plate feeds and returns the cooler. I made a none equal thread pitch adaptor for my Skyline, but that was because I didn't have an insert nut with the right thread form for the sandwich plate. I'll post a photo later. I have thermostatically controlled plates in stock, with the big ports to run -10 0r -12 hose, which is what you need.

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This is the kit Chris, thermostatically controlled plate is included.

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=136719&d=1312224900

 

It's doubtful but perhaps the NA's threaded adaptor may suit, but if not I'll get one made at the engineer's.

 

With regards to the water feed & return to the stock oil cooler, do I blank these off or do I need to run a pipe between them?

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Blank them off or you lose rad efficiency as water will bypass the rad down the linked pipes. Looks fine, -10 hoes and what looks like a Think Automotive sandwich plate. These are not too bad, but if you take out the wax `stat you can port them with a die grinder, so they flow a good deal better.

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Blank them off or you lose rad efficiency as water will bypass the rad down the linked pipes. Looks fine, -10 hoes and what looks like a Think Automotive sandwich plate. These are not too bad, but if you take out the wax `stat you can port them with a die grinder, so they flow a good deal better.

 

Once again Chris I am indebted to you.

 

I'll have a better understanding of all that is possible with the sandwich plate when I have it in my hand as these things, for the most part, are an unknown to me, as are most things about this proposed build!

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