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JamieP's Black Beast (update 1132bhp & 840ftlb at hubs)


JamieP

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Chris, how much are these CV Joints and what power will they take?? I can get shafts made that will not brealk for around £500 a pair.

 

The GKN joints are generic motorsport ones, the chances of the splines, the threads, the lengths et cetera being directly comparable with MKIV Supra TT ones is negligible. You would need bespoke drive shafts and inner and outer stub axles / flanges making, too. If you get too much traction something else will then fail :(

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Oh, and yes, why is it seemingly a problem with cars with TRD or other LSD's? Well, an LSD is designed to transfer torque to both driven wheels. Without one, or with a feeble one, just one wheel will go light with the torque reaction, lift and spin, so the shafts and joints have to transmit far less torque. Add an LSD and the traction increases hugely, but so do the torque loadings on the joints and they don't want to plunge AND transmit it. It all makes perfect sense ;)

 

OEM Torsen is an LSD, just a helical type and it doesnt suffer problems like this.

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The GKN joints are generic motorsport ones, the chances of the splines, the threads, the lengths et cetera being directly comparable with MKIV Supra TT ones is negligible. You would need bespoke drive shafts and inner and outer stub axles / flanges making, too. If you get too much traction something else will then fail :(

 

If we could find some to bolt to the diff flange and go in the hub I can get the shaft made with the correct splines, thats how you make a drag car go, make it hook and fix whatever brakes so you can put 100% power down, even at 1.4 bar it hooks and makes enough power to spin the wheel in the tire.

Tire move.jpg

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OEM Torsen is an LSD, just a helical type and it doesnt suffer problems like this.

 

I explained why, they don't give enough traction for the C/V joints to lock up. maybe people will realise now why a well developed 700 BHP race car has an £18K gearbox and a bespoke motorsport diff / propshaft / driveshaft and hubs, when they up the power a large percentage. God knows what all the rear suspension links a doing when you drop the clutch, either. There's loads of compliance in the bushes and subframe mounts et cetera. You need to be looking at the sort of stuff they run on Group C cars, which, although a LOT lighter, have VERY good traction and serious grunt. Big engine power is a tenth of it, the rest of the drivetrain and body shell needs to be up to it, too. At the end of the day I don't see the point in spending tens and tens of thousands on a MKIV to get the odd nine second quarter mile, when you can go out and buy something bespoke like a small rail and go a LOT faster, more cheaply and more reliably. It's all a mystery to me :)

Edited by Chris Wilson (see edit history)
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How much would that be dude?

 

1 is prob quite expensive but still cheaper than a majestic one, 3 would be cheaper and 5 would be prob a positive bargain, I will get prices, you can also fit with the hardware kit to stop even more flex.

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. At the end of the day I don't see the point in spending tens and tens of thousands on a MKIV to get the odd nine second quarter mile, when you can go out and buy something bespoke like a small rail and go a LOT faster, more cheaply and more reliably. It's all a mystery to me :)

 

Prob the same as saying why do people spend fortunes turning an old Aston into a circuit car when you can go buy an old single seater and go much faster much cheaper !!!!:innocent:

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Have you thought of http://www.driveshaftshop.com they do good props and drive shaft it's what i was thinkin of tryin on my build rated to 1200hp so should take what most cars put down on this forum with the exemtion to just a few. just an idea but may be worth a look if Mr Wilson is accurate.
i have an account there and get 15% discount..
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I might be wrong but i dont think that is what CW is saying.

 

Having spoke to Lee today, when he collected his diff from the guy that built ours he noticed his stub axle was not right in, im now thinking mine might not have been right in from the day it was built up, wish i had know about this issue with them pushing out before i removed it, im now tempted to hammer them in, clean it up and put it back in the car to see what happens.

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i have an account there and get 15% discount..

 

You know Mr Jurgen i've always like you!..15% you say hmmmm! lol :D

 

Sorry Mr P thought that you were considering the shafts as a potential cause of your issues! As i said i'm going to be making seriouse enquireys about these shafts myself as they can take the power i want and come as a kit with everything you need i believe including the modified hubs for the bigger splines.

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You know Mr Jurgen i've always like you!..15% you say hmmmm! lol :D

 

Sorry Mr P thought that you were considering the shafts as a potential cause of your issues! As i said i'm going to be making seriouse enquireys about these shafts myself as they can take the power i want and come as a kit with everything you need i believe including the modified hubs for the bigger splines.

yep 15% so let me know when ever your ready
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Axle stubs was very lose, came out easy, there is a little wear on them so I thought I'd see if new ones help, ordered new stubs, seals and clips from steve Manley, should be here Monday.

 

Also spoke to websters, if this keeps being a problem for me I'm going to look towards a different diff.

 

 

image

fd16b01d.jpg

Edited by JamieP (see edit history)
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