Scott Posted June 13, 2011 Author Share Posted June 13, 2011 (edited) This is what I mean but Toyota's tools are as per post number 10, i.e. they fit properly. http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?605492-How-to-use-a-valve-shim-removal-tool That said, if you do all your shim calculations in one go and remove the new cams you can probably get away without tools. Post 12's idea is quite good. This is what Toyota's tools look like... http://toyota.spx.com/detail.aspx?id=753 Hopefully you won't need these.... http://toyota.spx.com/detail.aspx?id=3&g=12 Coolio, I'll give you a shout when I'm going to set about the job. I'll give it a go with the cams in/out method but if it doesn't work for me it'll be good to have the tools to hand rather than having to wait on them. The shims/buckets are all numbered etc. The valves were kept in sequence when having the stem seals done also thanks again Edited June 13, 2011 by Scott (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted June 13, 2011 Author Share Posted June 13, 2011 If you measure correctly there is no reason you cannot just measure the valve gap and remove the cams and workout what size shim you need, it is basic engineering/maths/mechanics, I have a large box of shims and have never had to take the cams out more than once to get a gap within tolerance. Agreed. I've measured the gaps, had the camshafts out, refitted them and re-measured the gaps. They often come in to less than 0.002" of where they were to start with, which is probably just down to how sensitive I am with a feeler gauge. I've tried using the camshaft in removal tools before, and it was a real PITA. The main problem is if the shims are really stuck down into the bucket, it's easier to pull the bucket and shim out together, then lift the shim out of the bucket with the aid of a strong magnet and a small straight pick / screwdriver. Yeah that was pretty much what I was thinking/wondering. I have the buckets etc seperate anyway so everything has been cleaned by the previous owner. Shouldn't really have any issues getting them out (I wouldn't have thought anyway) so I'll give it a go. Always handy to have the right tools to hand anyway should I need them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Morpheus Posted June 13, 2011 Share Posted June 13, 2011 Yeah that was pretty much what I was thinking/wondering. I have the buckets etc seperate anyway so everything has been cleaned by the previous owner. Shouldn't really have any issues getting them out (I wouldn't have thought anyway) so I'll give it a go. Always handy to have the right tools to hand anyway should I need them Have the valves been re-ground or lapped yet? Either way, if you want to get them to seal perfectly airtight, after lapping with the finest grinding paste grade to remove any pitting, (esp. on the exhaust valves), thoroughly clean everything and spin the valves with engine oil only on the stem and face, using a cordless drill and you'll hone the mating surfaces to a polish. You can pour white spirit into the runners to test the seals, until none leaks past the valves. The lobe clearances will tighten, depending on the material removed and it's obviously best done before the stem seals are replaced and the clearances adjusted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted June 13, 2011 Author Share Posted June 13, 2011 Pretty sure Rob already did that with them but I'll be stripping it all down so will check it. Good advice with the oil, will probably do that regardless Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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