Homer Posted June 11, 2011 Share Posted June 11, 2011 This is reassuring to hear. How was re-fitting? From what has been said previously here that seems to be the tricky part (i.e without damaging things!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwayne Posted June 11, 2011 Share Posted June 11, 2011 well i'll be honest, there was a couple of hairy moments when it was being jacked back up and at one point the jack lent over sideways but i caught it in time. i put that down to the small piece of 2x4 i had on the jack cup and it wasnt the largest of trolley jacks in the first place so i could have used something more suitable. its definately an all day job that way though, i started around lunch time and i still need to reconnect the prop, starter and gear lever tomorrow. i do think i was reasonably lucky with it to get it back in place first time though. good thing with the trolley jack going in from the front was as i lifted the box it came up and back towards the engine at the same time so lining it up wasnt too much trouble. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homer Posted June 16, 2011 Share Posted June 16, 2011 did it today with the front wheels sat on 2 old 15" steel wheels either side. its just about enough room that way and i lowered the box down with a small trolley jack but it took 2 of us to keep it steady as it went down. the hardest part for me was getting at the 2 top bellhousing bolts, and not knowing i had more bolts under the inspection covers to remove You weren't kidding about those two bolts being tricky (one of the passenger side especially)! Are there any tips from people here on getting the box seperated from the engine? I've got mine back about 5mm, but can't seem to get it to move any further Was your one a w58 or v160? There's a small inspection plate on the w58, but the manual doesn't say there's any bolts under there... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_jekyll Posted June 16, 2011 Share Posted June 16, 2011 i poped a small pry bar in the first time i took a box off , but a word of warning dont lie directly under it then pry it off. i have a w58 fall about 2 foot straight onto the nose , not comfortable, verry messy . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homer Posted June 16, 2011 Share Posted June 16, 2011 Thanks Craig, you mean pry the transmision away from the block with the pry bar between the belhousing and block? The car isn't too high, but still don't fancy it landing my my chest! I've got a trolley jack and some blocks of wood supporting it. Should there be no/little support on the box when pulling it back? At the moment the box is dropped about 1 inch at the rear, should it just be lightly suspended? This job has been a pita so far, probably one of the worse I've done on the car (and that's saying something with this one!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwayne Posted June 16, 2011 Share Posted June 16, 2011 mine is the v160. it pretty much slid off after i removed the 6 12mm bolts on the clutch from the inspection holes. not sure if the w58 is the same though. i had a jack on the box at the same time trying to keep it level as it came out. i wouldnt be under there on my own for when it comes off completely, the w58 is probably lighter than the v160 but its still gonna feel like a ton when comes free suddenly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwayne Posted June 16, 2011 Share Posted June 16, 2011 (edited) my car was tilted like this with the rear wheels on the floor when i took it off so maybe the angle helped it come off http://img151.imageshack.us/img151/2379/11062011054.jpg Edited June 16, 2011 by dwayne (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilicos Posted June 16, 2011 Share Posted June 16, 2011 Don't you guys have anything like this near you? http://www.pitstartgarage.com/self_service.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_jekyll Posted June 16, 2011 Share Posted June 16, 2011 i personally drop the rear box mounts so it tilts back and give it a pry and a good wiggle . it is a good idea to have an extra set of hands to help take the weight . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homer Posted June 16, 2011 Share Posted June 16, 2011 Cheers guys I've dropped the back of the box down a bit and the trans mount is removed already. Dwayne, the w58 is probably a lot ligher than the v160, the box is smaller and a lot simpler. Justgav is going to drop by tomorrow evening to lend a hand if I can't do it on my own, maybe more brute force is needed! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dcarrter21 Posted June 16, 2011 Share Posted June 16, 2011 Ive had my v160 in and out twice on the floor. As mentioned before i just lowered the box with a big trolley jack. Lots of extension bars help to get to the top gearbox bolts. Not too bad once youve done it a couple of times!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted June 17, 2011 Share Posted June 17, 2011 Now heres what I cannot work out, although I must admit it took a few years to get my head around this way of thinking, If you are a tradesman etc how much could you earn in the time it has taken to get that box out???? AFR will do a 6 speed clutch for £150, now trust me for £150 I would not be lying on my back getting filthy and hurt if I could do a bit of IT to pay for it or machine up a few parts:eyebrows: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mellonman Posted June 17, 2011 Share Posted June 17, 2011 this must be the best tip for you dont do it this way Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonB Posted June 17, 2011 Share Posted June 17, 2011 Make sure you disconnect the electrical plugs too - when I pulled my engine and left the gearbox in the car I forgot one and couldn't figure out why the engine wasn't coming out. I ended up breaking the wires and having to resolder them! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homer Posted June 17, 2011 Share Posted June 17, 2011 Got the gearbox off in the end (missed a bolt in the darkness!). Thanksfully Gav was able to give a hand today, it's FAR easier with two people!! We tried to reinstall the box today got it on the spline, but couldn't get it in the last 10mm or so. I didn't have a clutch allignment tool so eyeballed it... Is this where I've gone wrong? It does look spot on, but I guesss the input shaft is not going to the pilot bearing. It was going on the clutch disk itself fine... Will a generic "halfords" style clutch allignment tool be okay? Starting to wish I'd left this to the professionals now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kirk Posted June 17, 2011 Share Posted June 17, 2011 When i did mine on the driveway it went on the splines but wouldnt go any further because the engine was leaning forward on the mounts. Try jacking up the front of the engine up a bit to angle the rear down and it should slide in if your confident the alignment is bang on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homer Posted June 17, 2011 Share Posted June 17, 2011 That's a good call, but we did try that. The allignment of the box to the engine was good (we tried for nearly an hour jigglying the box around), it just wouldn't move forward that last 1cm. We've taken the box off again and will try to get an allignment tool tomorrow, just not sure if the generic ones are any use on a supra. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kirk Posted June 17, 2011 Share Posted June 17, 2011 Well ive got a universal one and it works a treat but i just use my supra specific one most of the time. It is a 5 speed your working with correct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homer Posted June 17, 2011 Share Posted June 17, 2011 Yep, 5spd. Fingers crossed I can an allignment tool tomorrow, hopefully halffords stock them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kirk Posted June 17, 2011 Share Posted June 17, 2011 If no joy id be happy to pop mine in the post for you to use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homer Posted June 17, 2011 Share Posted June 17, 2011 Thanks Martin, appreciated Hopefully not needed, will see tomorrow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonB Posted June 17, 2011 Share Posted June 17, 2011 It's easier to just put the clutch plate and disc on the gearbox input shaft, attach the box and then bolt the plate to the flywheel through the inspection hole. Then you don't need an alignment tool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homer Posted June 17, 2011 Share Posted June 17, 2011 It's easier to just put the clutch plate and disc on the gearbox input shaft, attach the box and then bolt the plate to the flywheel through the inspection hole. Then you don't need an alignment tool. That's a good idea - but this is a w58 - there's no inspection holes on the bellhousing I hijacked this thread from Hodge so the title is a bit misleading now! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonB Posted June 17, 2011 Share Posted June 17, 2011 That's a good idea - but this is a w58 - there's no inspection holes on the bellhousing I hijacked this thread from Hodge so the title is a bit misleading now! Ah sorry mate, should have read the thread properly I guess! Good luck with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homer Posted June 18, 2011 Share Posted June 18, 2011 No luck finding a suitable clutch alignment tool Tried everywhere local but there's nothing suitable for the w58/v160 boxes. Tried two more times today just getting it alligned by eyeballing it, but just can't get the box on that last 10mm or so. Gav's mate (MAC tools guy) is droping off a clutch alignment tool tomorrow so I'm hoping that should finally solve it! Just to eliminate one possible issue, the release bearing I was supplied is slightly different to the one that was in the box, it appears to have the same dimensions, but just wanted to check if anyone knows why the parts are different looking? I can't see any reason it would impact the operation at it fits perfectly... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.