Jake Posted July 7, 2005 Share Posted July 7, 2005 I'm just about to remove my crank pulley on my 1993 RZ Auto (well, try to remove it) but I'm unclear how to line up the marks on the pulley with the marks on the cam gears. There's a white mark and a yellow mark on the crank pulley. There's a white mark on both cam gears and a white mark on the casing behind both of them. When I align the white mark on the cam gears with the marks on the casing the white mark on the crank pulley doesn't seem to align with anything in particular, it's just slightly to the left of the 12 o'clock position. Any help would be great. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jake Posted July 7, 2005 Author Share Posted July 7, 2005 It seems like maybe the white mark is supposed to line up with the number 0 on the backing behind the crank pulley. It doesn't, but that might be because the belt is so slack. Anyway, I've got the crank pulley nut undone using the starter motor tactic. It looks like the new pulley has been beaten on with a large hammer, judging by the marks on it. Is that usual? (See attached pics) http://img206.imageshack.us/img206/295/p10102012ag.th.jpg http://img206.imageshack.us/img206/8204/p10102049tp.th.jpghttp://img135.imageshack.us/img135/7789/p10102057wo.th.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jake Posted July 7, 2005 Author Share Posted July 7, 2005 Like I said, I got the crank pulley bolt undone OK but I can see how to get they actually pulley off the shaft. What's the correct method? I can see there are a couple of threaded holes in the pulley that I can put bolts into, is that anything to do with getting the pulley off? Or am I going to need a special tool? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eyefi Posted July 7, 2005 Share Posted July 7, 2005 special tool. you need a pulley remover. it fastenes to the pulley in the 2 threaded holes then you screw in the center of the pulley remover against the crank and this gently and evenly pulls the pulley from the crank. the new pulley should not be beaten on with a hammer line up the crank pulley to zero, then when you put the belt on the cams should line up with the cam markers on the backing plate (12 o'clock). position the crank then line up the intake cam then the exhaust and the tensioner will take up the rest of the slack. have you downloaded the TSM from mkiv.com? becuase you are auto you are going to have problems when it comes to tightening the pulley nut because its not too easy to lock the crank in position. you either have to lock the torque converter in the gearbox or lock the pulley to the block to apply the 300ft/lb ish of torque. have a look on supra forums for some tecniques. good luck and have fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jake Posted July 7, 2005 Author Share Posted July 7, 2005 Thanks Eyefi. I trying to make a puller at the moment. What is "the TSM"? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl0s Posted July 7, 2005 Share Posted July 7, 2005 Toyota Service Manual I reckon. When you say "new pulley", has this just been recently fitted? Wonder why it's so beat up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eyefi Posted July 7, 2005 Share Posted July 7, 2005 Thanks Eyefi. I trying to make a puller at the moment. What is "the TSM"? they aren't that much to buy, make sure it pulls evenly. like carlos says, service manual. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jake Posted July 7, 2005 Author Share Posted July 7, 2005 When you say "new pulley", has this just been recently fitted? Wonder why it's so beat up? Yes mate, it was fitted about 150miles ago. As mentioned in this thread. It must have gotten into that condition when it was being fitted. they aren't that much to buy, make sure it pulls evenly. Right, I'll try to source one tomorrow. My home made puller isn't man enough. Cheers for the help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoffvalenti Posted July 8, 2005 Share Posted July 8, 2005 Yes mate, it was fitted about 150miles ago. There's no real excuse for butchery like that. Even if it IS tight to go back on, a soft faced mallet would have been a better tool to "persuade" it to fit, rather than a fcuking great hammer Certainly the "mechanic" who did that job, (loose belt and mullered pulley) has lost all credibility in my eyes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Harwood Posted July 8, 2005 Share Posted July 8, 2005 There's no real excuse for butchery like that. Even if it IS tight to go back on, a soft faced mallet would have been a better tool to "persuade" it to fit, rather than a fcuking great hammer Certainly the "mechanic" who did that job, (loose belt and mullered pulley) has lost all credibility in my eyes I'm not sure if I'm missing something... Who fitted it Jake? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Terry S Posted July 8, 2005 Share Posted July 8, 2005 It seems like maybe the white mark is supposed to line up with the number 0 on the backing behind the crank pulley. It doesn't, but that might be because the belt is so slack. Anyway, I've got the crank pulley nut undone using the starter motor tactic. It looks like the new pulley has been beaten on with a large hammer, judging by the marks on it. Is that usual? (See attached pics) http://img206.imageshack.us/img206/295/p10102012ag.th.jpg http://img206.imageshack.us/img206/8204/p10102049tp.th.jpghttp://img135.imageshack.us/img135/7789/p10102057wo.th.jpg Jake I *think* I have a spare pulley kicking around mate if you need it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jake Posted July 8, 2005 Author Share Posted July 8, 2005 Cheers Terry but I think the pulley will be ok. I'm only taking it off so I can get at the cambelt to see why it's so slack since I got the car back from having the crank pulley replaced. I wish I had just done it myself in the first place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Class One Posted July 8, 2005 Share Posted July 8, 2005 I'm not sure if I'm missing something... Who fitted it Jake? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Terry S Posted July 8, 2005 Share Posted July 8, 2005 Off topic, but I spoke with Mark @ Phoenix and he said early August should be cool if you want to do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jake Posted July 8, 2005 Author Share Posted July 8, 2005 Off topic, but I spoke with Mark @ Phoenix and he said early August should be cool if you want to do it. Nice one, cheers. I'm still deciding whether to do it myself or not. It's just a question of money really. If I don't do it myself Phoenix will definetly get the job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Terry S Posted July 8, 2005 Share Posted July 8, 2005 Nice one, cheers. I'm still deciding whether to do it myself or not. It's just a question of money really. If I don't do it myself Phoenix will definetly get the job. Understood mate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eyefi Posted July 8, 2005 Share Posted July 8, 2005 i've just been looking at the pics (couldn't see them at home), shouldn't the pulley hub sit closer to the end of the crank? that pulley seems to hanging half off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jake Posted July 8, 2005 Author Share Posted July 8, 2005 I don't think so. There's very little gap between the back of the pulley and the plastic cambelt cover. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miguel Posted July 8, 2005 Share Posted July 8, 2005 When you get the front pulley and plastic cover off to check the belt there will be a small knotch on the bottom drive wheel trigger disk tooth wich you line up with the dot on the pump. You can't get it wrong as the Knoch will line up with the woodrfuf key facing 12 oclock . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigbloodyturbo Posted January 27, 2012 Share Posted January 27, 2012 I know this is uber old but my crank pulley has two timing marks on it (white and yellow), which one is supposed to point to 0 on the cover when the cam wheels are point to the white pips? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
absz Posted January 27, 2012 Share Posted January 27, 2012 its the white pip the yellow one is for checking the ignition timing with engine running Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigbloodyturbo Posted January 27, 2012 Share Posted January 27, 2012 its the white pip the yellow one is for checking the ignition timing with engine running Cheers, thats what I thought. I have it lined up with that and its running like a bag of nails. Doesn't want to idle, unless i hold the revs up, missing periodically all over the place and doesn't want to rev. Also belching out smoke like its running pig rich:( time for a think i guess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted January 27, 2012 Share Posted January 27, 2012 Cheers, thats what I thought. I have it lined up with that and its running like a bag of nails. Doesn't want to idle, unless i hold the revs up, missing periodically all over the place and doesn't want to rev. Also belching out smoke like its running pig rich:( time for a think i guess. Did you take the pulley wheel off during your build? If you have a decent length DTI you could stick it in the spark plug hole and see if the 0 is TDC or not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigbloodyturbo Posted January 27, 2012 Share Posted January 27, 2012 Did you take the pulley wheel off during your build? If you have a decent length DTI you could stick it in the spark plug hole and see if the 0 is TDC or not. I never had the pulley off as i didn't want to change the timing belt while doing the work. Currently the crank pully pip is at 0 and the two cam pulleys are matched to the white pips at on the cam cover. Its running very rich and smokey. If i hold the revs up at certain places its finds a nice'ish rythm but periodically misses. If i try and rev it a bit harder to see if it clears it labours and the car shakes hard like its off a cylinder or two. I'm starting to think its a knackered coil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted January 27, 2012 Share Posted January 27, 2012 I never had the pulley off as i didn't want to change the timing belt while doing the work. Currently the crank pully pip is at 0 and the two cam pulleys are matched to the white pips at on the cam cover. Its running very rich and smokey. If i hold the revs up at certain places its finds a nice'ish rythm but periodically misses. If i try and rev it a bit harder to see if it clears it labours and the car shakes hard like its off a cylinder or two. I'm starting to think its a knackered coil. Too late now but just for clarification..... did you check the timing before you pulled the belt? It's always recommended to zero the pulley and the cams before starting, in fact it says in the manual to mark the belt up with tippex at this stage if you are putting it back on. If you aren't sure if it's a timing issue or not, just tape up a long screwdriver and put it in the no.1 spark plug hole. Rotate the engine with the plugs removed and make sure that at zero the screwdriver is at it's uppermost point. This is of course if you don't have access to a clock. It's not going to be an exact science but it should let you judge it a bit at least. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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