juanchan Posted June 6, 2011 Share Posted June 6, 2011 Driving to work this morning, the MIL suddenly came on, along with the exclamation mark to the right of the temperature gauge (UK spec car) but no other warning lights. I was driving at a steady 30ish at the time. I've followed Ian C's guide to check the error codes but all I get is the O/D light flashing steadily. The orange engine light doesn't do anything. I've disconnected the battery for the last hour or so to try and reset the ECU (I'm pretty clueless with electrics, so if that's incorrect please let me know!), but the MIL is still illuminating. The car appears to be otherwise running as normal. Anyone able to offer any advice? My searches on here haven't revealed much so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ronttuk Posted June 6, 2011 Share Posted June 6, 2011 have you checked brake fluid etc ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
juanchan Posted June 6, 2011 Author Share Posted June 6, 2011 She had a full service two weeks ago and has covered about 50 miles since, so tbh, no I haven't! I'll have a thorough fluid etc check tomorrow, but after leaving her parked all day at work, there was no patch left on the ground. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Blyth Posted June 6, 2011 Share Posted June 6, 2011 Did you have any your alarm / immobiliser disarmed when you tried to read the codes? The MIL should flash on and off with even spacing if there are no codes stored; it shouldn't stay off completely when the TE1 and E1 terminals are connected together. If the car is immobilised then the ECU won't be receiving power and won't turn the MIL on when tested. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
juanchan Posted June 7, 2011 Author Share Posted June 7, 2011 Hmmm. I hadn't specifically turned the immobiliser off after unlocking the car. I'll see if I can figure that out and give it another go! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ric Posted June 7, 2011 Share Posted June 7, 2011 (edited) The brake fluid sensor is extremely sensitive top it up and see how you go. +1 for the code check with immobiliser disabled too Isnt flashing OD light somthing related with the speed sensor or delimiter Edited June 7, 2011 by Ric (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Morpheus Posted June 7, 2011 Share Posted June 7, 2011 Poor car. Yet another reason for scrapping the stupid 30 limit imo. The 2JZ probably overheated with frustration and threw a tantrum. It was a cry for help I tell you! Anyway, what's an MIL? Malfunction Indicator Light? Don't worry about that; just put black tape over it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
juanchan Posted June 7, 2011 Author Share Posted June 7, 2011 The brake fluid sensor is extremely sensitive top it up and see how you go. +1 for the code check with immobiliser disabled too Isnt flashing OD light somthing related with the speed sensor or delimiter I'll give the immobiliser a go and check the brake fluid (hopefully) tomorrow. Car isn't going anywhere for a few days anyway She's also still limited to my knowledge - never been that fast in her to find out! Poor car. Yet another reason for scrapping the stupid 30 limit imo. The 2JZ probably overheated with frustration and threw a tantrum. It was a cry for help I tell you! Anyway, what's an MIL? Malfunction Indicator Light? Don't worry about that; just put black tape over it! I may have to if I can't figure out the source! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Morpheus Posted June 7, 2011 Share Posted June 7, 2011 (edited) She's also still limited to my knowledge - never been that fast in her to find out! Yep, it's all coming out now. I'm beginning to see a pattern here....... Owner neglect! On a more constructive note and I know it may seem a little lame to some; given that you don't actually have any error codes to go by yet, it could be prettymuch anything right? So, I'd start by emptying a bottle of Wynn's or Lucas Injector Cleaner into a half tank or less of fuel, (the less the better really so it's more concentrated), preferably in the carpark where you bought it before driving home etc. and giving it a damned good thrash to clear out some of the soot and gunk that will have built up, perhaps on the O2 sensor etc. If after a few miles it makes no difference, it's then a step by step process of checking all the most obvious faults you can imagine, on up, from things like spark plugs, vacuum leaks, fluid levels as mentioned, blown fuses, HT lead connections etc. The most likely thing to me would be a build up of carbon deposits somewhere, throwing off your AFR or injector efficiency. A coil pack could have failed etc. Pure guesswork but seriously, try some Wynn's, regardless of whether it's mechanically faulty or not. It's good stuff and if the engine has never been de-coked, you'll notice a difference in performance and have lower emissions too. Obviously, the worse the build up is, the more you'll notice the difference. Needless to say, there's enough (clean) oil and coolant in the engine, right? Edited June 7, 2011 by Morpheus (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
juanchan Posted June 9, 2011 Author Share Posted June 9, 2011 (edited) Right then, finally had some time to faff... Fluid levels. Check Alarm diasbled. Check The engine warning light bulb hasn't blown. Check Paperclip in diagnostics port. Check Flashing engine warning light? Negative On a more constructive note and I know it may seem a little lame to some; given that you don't actually have any error codes to go by yet, it could be prettymuch anything right? So, I'd start by emptying a bottle of Wynn's or Lucas Injector Cleaner into a half tank or less of fuel, (the less the better really so it's more concentrated), preferably in the carpark where you bought it before driving home etc. and giving it a damned good thrash to clear out some of the soot and gunk that will have built up, perhaps on the O2 sensor etc. If after a few miles it makes no difference, it's then a step by step process of checking all the most obvious faults you can imagine, on up, from things like spark plugs, vacuum leaks, fluid levels as mentioned, blown fuses, HT lead connections etc. The most likely thing to me would be a build up of carbon deposits somewhere, throwing off your AFR or injector efficiency. A coil pack could have failed etc. Pure guesswork but seriously, try some Wynn's, regardless of whether it's mechanically faulty or not. It's good stuff and if the engine has never been de-coked, you'll notice a difference in performance and have lower emissions too. Obviously, the worse the build up is, the more you'll notice the difference. Needless to say, there's enough (clean) oil and coolant in the engine, right? I feel a trip to Hell-frauds in the offing tomorrow on my way to work. Might as well give it a shot. Still can't see / hear / feel / smell anything untoward though, which I'm taking as a positive so far. Edit: A quick search on the O/D light flashing brings up a lot of results for folks who've had the O/D light start flashing whilst driving along. Mine is only flashing when the diagnostics port is shorted and the ignition is turned on. Edited June 9, 2011 by juanchan (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Morpheus Posted June 9, 2011 Share Posted June 9, 2011 Perhaps they forgot to remove their paperclip? I think we need to set up another 'Project Paperclip' to help find a solution. You won't be wasting your money using Wynn's Injector Cleaner, even if you don't notice any difference, though I think you will. Look for a purple bottle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TLicense Posted June 9, 2011 Share Posted June 9, 2011 Right then, finally had some time to faff... Fluid levels. Check Alarm diasbled. Check The engine warning light bulb hasn't blown. Check Paperclip in diagnostics port. Check Flashing engine warning light? Negative The engine warning light should flash when the terminals are bridged. If it's not flashing at all, either you've got it stuck in the wrong hole (oooerrr!), or the lights aren't working. When you turn the ignition on but before you crank the engine do the lights on the right hand cluster light up? If not, then you could be suffering from the dry solder warning light problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
juanchan Posted June 10, 2011 Author Share Posted June 10, 2011 The engine warning light should flash when the terminals are bridged. If it's not flashing at all, either you've got it stuck in the wrong hole (oooerrr!), or the lights aren't working. When you turn the ignition on but before you crank the engine do the lights on the right hand cluster light up? If not, then you could be suffering from the dry solder warning light problem. I'm definitely shorting E1 and TE1 - I thought I may have done that bit incorrectly so I kept checking it! I had the dry solder issue a couple of years back, so I had that sorted then. I'll look into that again though, as it could have been a dodgy repair. Cheers for your help and suggestions so far guys Fingers crossed I'll get to the bottom of it soon! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
juanchan Posted June 15, 2011 Author Share Posted June 15, 2011 Firstly, thanks guys for the tips and advice, it's much appreciated. I've double checked the soldering on the warning lights that was redone a couple of years back and it appeared to be ok. Just to be sure, my brother in law resoldered them for me in about a tenth the time it would have taken me (and neater too!), and the engine warning light now works again! Before that though, I was a little surprised to find a few bulbs out on the outside of the car, especially given she's only just passed her MOT two weeks back. One brake light was out; quick change and the MIL has gone out (I'm sure I've had a brake light go before now but I don't recall the MIL coming on, my memory must be rusty), so no need to check the diagnostics. However, in removing my battery to replace a blown side light, I sheared off the clamp bolt Seems to be one small annoying thing after another for me atm! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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