lonbhold75 Posted May 30, 2011 Share Posted May 30, 2011 (edited) OK, so was taking the Supra to get MOT'd the other day, car seemed to be driving fine till I went up a slight incline. It then proceded to stall about every 100 meters. Pulled the EFI #1 fuse to reset the ECU and was able to drive about two miles back to the house. Did the paperclip trick and pulled code 42, so went straight to splicing the pink wire to the blue/red one. Reset the ECU and took the car for two seperate test drives of about two miles each with no issues. Then went to take the car to MOT test station again, same incline get O/D Off light flashing but no stalling now. Turned O/D off and proceeded to MOT, passed and returned home to pull code 42 again. So now followed the the service manual for code 42, this is where my question begin. Since I already spliced the wires at the back of the odometer, that should rule that out correct? Checked the voltage as recommended at the ECU A plug pin SP1 but get close to 11V instead of the 4-6V the TRSM states, would this also be do to the splice/unbuffered speed sensor signal? I also pulled the No. 1 speed sensor, gear looks fine and voltage checked good per the TRSM. Cycled between 0V and 12V four times. I am also going on the assumption the wires are good as I am getting voltage at the ECU and the speedometer and tachometer are both working. Forgot to add, 1995 TT Auto that I have recently removed a faulty car alarm along with a working turbo timer and AVC-R. Every splice from the removed items were covered with heatshrink and verified correct per the TRSM. So hopefully someone on here will spot something I missed and help me sort this. Thank you in advance for any help. Edited June 19, 2011 by lonbhold75 Forgot some specs (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted May 31, 2011 Share Posted May 31, 2011 I would start by putting any speed converter / top speed de limiter wiring back to stack and temporarily removing the gizmos. See if that fixes it. I would also check the setting of the TPS very carefully, as per the book. Finally I would check the ato box fluid is at the correct level (fluid warm, engine idling and check in Park after cycling through all gears including reverse, stationary). The incline bit could be loose wire moving, or engine load related, or maybe even transmission fluid level related, did you get a feel as to how suddenly the engine reacted? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lonbhold75 Posted May 31, 2011 Author Share Posted May 31, 2011 Thank you Mr. Wilson, I have already removed all the gizmos, before this started happening as my battery kept draining overnight, new battery now installed. Will check the TPS as well as verify the fluid levels again once warm. I was thinking along the same lines as you with the loose wiring, or fluid level related. If you are referring to how soon the engine reacted as far as stalling after the incline it was almost imediately, same for the O/D Off light after the splice. Fairly certain I was still in second hitting close to but just shy of 3000rpm by the peak of the incline. The engine/ transmission does not seem to be reacting as fast as I would expect, but this being my first Supra I am still in the learning process and I am uncertain of how things are suppose to react. I was also contributing the sluggishness to the ECU not receiving the correct speed and hope once this is sorted it will drive as expected. Thanks again for your assistance it is greatly appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lonbhold75 Posted June 18, 2011 Author Share Posted June 18, 2011 Pulled the throttle body and verified/adjusted the TPS and checked transmission fluid levels. Everything checked good after some adjustment, but had to wait for the vehicle to get registered before I could take it for a legitimate drive. Finally got my plates Wednesday, but today was the first day I had a chance to take the car out. So ofcourse it was raining, but wanted to verify my issues were sorted and I can proudly say no more code 42 or flashing O/D Off light. Looks like the TPS was slightly out of spec and the adjustments I made sorted the issue. Adjusting the TPS was quite tedious but I got there in the end. Now I just need a nice sunny, dry day so I can remove the roof and give the turbos a proper workout. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lonbhold75 Posted June 19, 2011 Author Share Posted June 19, 2011 So finally got to go for what I hoped to be a proper drive. No such luck, my NA Rover 620i seemed quicker, and then about 3500rpm the dreaded blue smoke. Imediately returned home and the dismantling began, should have taken pictures but got stuck in. Well after about 5 hours of swearing, knuckle and head banging I finally managed to remove the stock twins. Will put some pics up later of the carnage, but the #1 turbo compressor was pretty beat up looking and couldn't get it to spin more than about 1/4 turn, which turned out to be because the turbine had sheared off preventing shaft rotation. I think this is why the car felt sluggish as the compressor was actually blocking air flow. Then got to the #2 turbo, was a little better. The compressor nut was almost completely off and the blades were chipped too. There was excessive shaft play and the turbine was probably the only decent bit of the two turbos. Next will be waiting on the Hose Techniques kit to arrive adn then install them along with a set of the S4S GT28R Hybrid Twins along with the HKS hard pipe kit, CW SMIC. Since the bumper is off might as well sort the previous owners overspray on the AC Radiator and components in the front of that along with fitting and wiring in the active spoiler. Most likely will find something else to add to the list too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lonbhold75 Posted June 20, 2011 Author Share Posted June 20, 2011 Well took some pics of the blown turbos today, so here are the pics: #1 #2 The plan is to take pics as I install the new turbos, which will depend on me remembering to make sure the battery is charged. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted June 20, 2011 Share Posted June 20, 2011 That's had something through the intake. Did it have a none stock air filter set up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kirk Posted June 20, 2011 Share Posted June 20, 2011 Ouchy!!! Sorry to see that.. You have a PM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lonbhold75 Posted June 21, 2011 Author Share Posted June 21, 2011 That's had something through the intake. Did it have a none stock air filter set up? Yes, it has a K&N shoved onto the MAF. From the relative ease I had in removing the turbos, plus what appears to be hammer marks on the #1 turbo compressor housing one of the previous owners was aware of the issue. Haven't found any pieces in the intercooler yet either, hope they have not made it past that. What would be the best/easiest way to determine if they made it into the head? To reduce the likely hood of this happening to my new setup I have a stock setup waiting to go in minus the #1 inlet pipe. Ouchy!!! Sorry to see that.. You have a PM Was actually kind of expecting it, thats why I had a new set of turbos waiting to go in before the car even arrived into the UK. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted June 21, 2011 Share Posted June 21, 2011 It's very unlikely anything has got iniside the engine via the valves. You would need a proper endoscope down the bores via the plug holes. A compression and leakdown test as well. Good luck, will be interested to see how the new turbos fair. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.