spiderpigcity Posted May 25, 2011 Author Share Posted May 25, 2011 ah thats why boostlogic told me to run the feed from the bottom of the water pump and the return into the 2nd to top feed on the water neck off the top rad hose. makes sense now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spiderpigcity Posted May 25, 2011 Author Share Posted May 25, 2011 I still think cooling with the @3/8" pipe is like pi**ing on the great fire of london and expecting it to go out. I can't see it making that much difference. Good thread though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swampy442 Posted May 25, 2011 Share Posted May 25, 2011 so there you have it water cooled will last you longer as long as you have the outlet higher then the inlet. Hmmm looks like Ive got some rotating to do Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wez Posted May 25, 2011 Share Posted May 25, 2011 Here you go, this should answer everything, and from a horse's mouth http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/images/tech_center/Garrett_White_Paper_01_Water_Cooling.pdf Interesting read, I wonder how many DBB installations actually have the 20deg tilt in them that Garrett specify Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swampy442 Posted May 25, 2011 Share Posted May 25, 2011 Interesting read, I wonder how many DBB installations actually have the 20deg tilt in them that Garrett specify Not me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imi Posted May 25, 2011 Share Posted May 25, 2011 Interesting read, I wonder how many DBB installations actually have the 20deg tilt in them that Garrett specify Good article. I wonder whether this has been taken into account with my install. Can someone please have a look at the pic and check? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spiderpigcity Posted May 25, 2011 Author Share Posted May 25, 2011 (edited) your pipe going to the top water neck needs to go into the one underneath and blank the one at the top. just swap it round. You will now if its right as the pipe will get hot if water is running through it. It might be a good idea to stick some aluminium tape to your master cylinder and defo around your throttle cable. Also trim some plastic off the bottom corner of the plastic intake or in time it will wear a hole in your air filter cone. Edited May 25, 2011 by spiderpigcity (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wez Posted May 25, 2011 Share Posted May 25, 2011 your pipe going to the top water neck needs to go into the one underneath and blank the one at the top. just swap it round. You will now if its right as the pipe will get hot if water is running through it. Why? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spiderpigcity Posted May 25, 2011 Author Share Posted May 25, 2011 don't know just did it cos boostlogic said, something to do with pressure and heights of output from turbo, and the circuit. Output must be higher that input on turbo. Maybe a syphon effect for when the pump is switched off, don't really know. All i noticed is that if the pipe goes to the top connection on the water neck it doesnt flow water from the turbo but bottom one does. Like I said we need Mr Beardy to explain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thorin Posted May 25, 2011 Share Posted May 25, 2011 OK then we just need to figure out who the hell this Mr Beardy is you keep mentioning and we'll be all set. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pedrosixfour Posted May 25, 2011 Share Posted May 25, 2011 OK then we just need to figure out who the hell this Mr Beardy is you keep mentioning and we'll be all set. If it turns out to be a woman she wont be impressed with the new moniker. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imi Posted May 25, 2011 Share Posted May 25, 2011 it would be great if someone could point out where the water inlet and outlet pipe are in the pic (if they are visible). Secondly, if the turbo needed to be rotated to ensure that the inlet was lower than the outlet (within a 20C gradient) then would it be possible to do that or is there way too much work involved? Apologies as I do appreciate that these can be fairly basic questions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanisLupus Posted May 25, 2011 Share Posted May 25, 2011 You'd have to change the Manifold i think or fit an adapter which rotates the housing. Although i don't know how good an adapter would be for the flow of exhaust gas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swampy442 Posted May 25, 2011 Share Posted May 25, 2011 You'd have to change the Manifold i think or fit an adapter which rotates the housing. Although i don't know how good an adapter would be for the flow of exhaust gas Why? The housings just bolt to the core, just loosen the bolts and rotate the core a bit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spiderpigcity Posted May 25, 2011 Author Share Posted May 25, 2011 (edited) OK then we just need to figure out who the hell this Mr Beardy is you keep mentioning and we'll be all set. there is always a mr beardy wherever you go. He has a beard wears brown cardigans with skiers on and smokes a pipe, has a 1980's oscilloscope in his back seat and wears brown sandles with white socks. It is still an unsolved mystery where he gets his cardigans from, as no shops have ever sold them and no factories have every produced them. Some think there is a secret underground lab somewhere where lots of small mr beardys sit designing and producing cardigans with zig zags and skiers on them. He knows everything there is to know about everything and has been seen on top gear as well. He also twists his beard with his fingers while he is baffling you with his techy jargon..... Edited May 25, 2011 by spiderpigcity (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imi Posted May 25, 2011 Share Posted May 25, 2011 Why? The housings just bolt to the core, just loosen the bolts and rotate the core a bit thats what i like to hear, will get Lee to have a look at this when he next sees the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swampy442 Posted May 25, 2011 Share Posted May 25, 2011 If you look at your pic Imi note how the oil feed on top is off centre, and the red water connection on the left hand side of the turbo is higher than the right? Yours looks fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spiderpigcity Posted May 25, 2011 Author Share Posted May 25, 2011 it would be great if someone could point out where the water inlet and outlet pipe are in the pic (if they are visible). Secondly, if the turbo needed to be rotated to ensure that the inlet was lower than the outlet (within a 20C gradient) then would it be possible to do that or is there way too much work involved? Apologies as I do appreciate that these can be fairly basic questions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imi Posted May 25, 2011 Share Posted May 25, 2011 If you look at your pic Imi note how the oil feed on top is off centre, and the red water connection on the left hand side of the turbo is higher than the right? Yours looks fine. thats great, many thanks. Spider - the pic is an old one, i am using a different filter now and the air intake no longer touches it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanisLupus Posted May 25, 2011 Share Posted May 25, 2011 Why? The housings just bolt to the core, just loosen the bolts and rotate the core a bit Damn sorry You're right got it wrong was a long day today Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted May 25, 2011 Share Posted May 25, 2011 It's a compromise with how your turbo drain pipe runs and achieving this 20 degree angle. The angle is only important on switch off, as it promotes thermo syphon fluid movement, With the engine running the water pump will create sufficient pressure differential to negate the need for the angled inlet / outlet. Nice to have it right, but not vital, and certainly don't compromise the drain pipe angle! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted May 25, 2011 Share Posted May 25, 2011 Seems to me a big point is made about water cooling being so important, but it seems that its only on shut down that it plays the biggest part, and i notice that reference is mostly made to BB turbos and not PB turbos, Also a big point is made about the correct angles for the turbo water system to promote thermal syphon, but it strikes me that there will be a fair amount of thermal syphoning going on due to the temperature differences withing the cooling system, due to the coolant being heated buy the engine block, and the water pipework and rad, all the time the thermostat is open, So surly this water movement is going to encompass the turbo cooling system anyway? but in any case if you drive a turbocharged performance car you will either use a turbo timer or have the common sense to let the cooling system equalise the temps anyway! I have run oil cooled only turbos and not had any problems with cooking of the bearings, or the oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted May 25, 2011 Share Posted May 25, 2011 For sure, really early internal combustion engines relied totally on thermo syphon for all the water cooling, with no water pump at all. But don't try that on a 2JZ folks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spiderpigcity Posted May 25, 2011 Author Share Posted May 25, 2011 For sure, really early internal combustion engines relied totally on thermo syphon for all the water cooling, with no water pump at all. But don't try that on a 2JZ folks my great grandad told me that when he had his first car years ago the passenger had to pedal the mechanical water pump to cool his engine, and they would have to pedal like f**k when they stopped at the lights. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spiderpigcity Posted May 25, 2011 Author Share Posted May 25, 2011 Seems to me a big point is made about water cooling being so important, but it seems that its only on shut down that it plays the biggest part, and i notice that reference is mostly made to BB turbos and not PB turbos, Also a big point is made about the correct angles for the turbo water system to promote thermal syphon, but it strikes me that there will be a fair amount of thermal syphoning going on due to the temperature differences withing the cooling system, due to the coolant being heated buy the engine block, and the water pipework and rad, all the time the thermostat is open, So surly this water movement is going to encompass the turbo cooling system anyway? but in any case if you drive a turbocharged performance car you will either use a turbo timer or have the common sense to let the cooling system equalise the temps anyway! I have run oil cooled only turbos and not had any problems with cooking of the bearings, or the oil. so like my mate said in the beginning it doesnt increase performance or anything like that, it just prolongs the bearing life after switching off the ignition. 4 pages later.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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