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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Sounds like my engine is f***ed!!!!


Jamesy

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Cheers guys :hi:

 

 

If you want to take a different approach I'll happily swap my cracking twin turbos with manifold etc for your grubby, used, engine crushing single? :D

 

:D ... Dont tempt me mate - there is A LOT to be said for a nice bpu supra!!

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ohhh bad times sorry to hear this dude.i had an old mr2 with the camry engine fitted anyway when that went it was that bad i was sure it was the manifold cover rattling or something however it was the bottom end,in my experience with cars and bikes there is no warning at all.

 

she'll be back in no time im sure!

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Sorry to hear this mate ya sounds like a spun a shell which is not a problem if you just started it and it happened as there would be no load on it . So as long as you have not driven it far or hard you should be ok and so should the crank , :-) , so easy fix and cheap to :-) . So don't worry to much mate ,

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Sorry to hear this mate ya sounds like a spun a shell which is not a problem if you just started it and it happened as there would be no load on it . So as long as you have not driven it far or hard you should be ok and so should the crank , :-) , so easy fix and cheap to :-) . So don't worry to much mate ,

 

Thanx mate - not sure how much diving ive done on it to be honest - it didn't feel 100% going up to Japfest last saturday...but i only heard this noise on Friday so only dont like 15miles on it not much of which was hard.

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Sorry to hear this mate ya sounds like a spun a shell which is not a problem if you just started it and it happened as there would be no load on it . So as long as you have not driven it far or hard you should be ok and so should the crank , :-) , so easy fix and cheap to :-) . So don't worry to much mate ,

 

Thats got to be the first time ive ever heard anyone say a spun shell is easy and cheap to fix.

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After a few chats im considering using the following on the replacement short block (thanx again Ricky ;))

 

Although it wont be a fully built engine with the pistons/rods, it will certainly help safegaurd a lot more from this happening again...of course until the engine is out we still dont know what exactly went wrong or why, but still best to be safe:

 

ARP head studs

ARP rod bolts

ARP main bolts

ACL rod bearings

ACL main bearings

ACL thrust washers

 

Anyone got any of the above they're not using or spares?

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After a few chats im considering using the following on the replacement short block (thanx again Ricky ;))

 

Although it wont be a fully built engine with the pistons/rods, it will certainly help safegaurd a lot more from this happening again...of course until the engine is out we still dont know what exactly went wrong or why, but still best to be safe:

 

ARP head studs

ARP rod bolts

ARP main bolts

ACL rod bearings

ACL main bearings

ACL thrust washers

 

Anyone got any of the above they're not using or spares?

 

I no longer use ACL Race bearings, I don't really like the normal ACL bearings much either, I would use stock or Clevite, if the budget is tight I would pass on the main studs and go for better rod bolts, imo the best you can get are Carr. I can get you a set of Rods with ARP bolts for $639 AUS if that helps.

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Thats got to be the first time ive ever heard anyone say a spun shell is easy and cheap to fix.

 

Thats rod, pump and crank in the bin as a minimum, Lee will prob have a rod lying around hopefully around the same weight as they are made in batches, if not I have some odd and ends but you will need to know the weight of the other rods so we can find a heavier one, the oil pump you would obviously replace, the crank will be throw away, even if you could get a grind it will be surfaced cracked due to heat.

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Thats rod, pump and crank in the bin as a minimum, Lee will prob have a rod lying around hopefully around the same weight as they are made in batches, if not I have some odd and ends but you will need to know the weight of the other rods so we can find a heavier one, the oil pump you would obviously replace, the crank will be throw away, even if you could get a grind it will be surfaced cracked due to heat.

 

With my VERY limited knowledge im guessing a replacement short block will bypass all that excep the oil pump though yeah?

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I no longer use ACL Race bearings, I don't really like the normal ACL bearings much either, I would use stock or Clevite, if the budget is tight I would pass on the main studs and go for better rod bolts, imo the best you can get are Carr. I can get you a set of Rods with ARP bolts for $639 AUS if that helps.

 

Thanx John - am gonna speak to Lee later too about what i do and dont need out that list - bit of a tricky one as i want the engine safe but also playing with fcuk all cash, and still having to get the fuel system fitted is a bit of a 'mare!!!

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James an NA crank is the same and people give those engines away, you can prob get away with a bore glaze bust and drop in another crank/rods/rod and a new pump, im sure Lee has run thru the various scenarios open to you, but if someone has an NA engine lying around thats you best option for donor parts.

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