Robzki Posted May 4, 2011 Share Posted May 4, 2011 Hi all, Due an oil change soon, everytime I have changed the oil the sump plug has felt 'strange' when it finally seats. I'm not saying it has stripped the threads but If you have tightened a few bolts hopefully you will know what I mean. It kinda feels like 1/4 turn more would strip them. I get nervous everytime I do it. The last oil change it felt worse. but sealed perfectly and as the car is used daily and we live 15miles from civilisation I didn't want to delve further. What are the chances that the sump bolt has softer threads than the sump? With my luck I know that the sump will be made from marshmallow and the bolt will be inconel, but ever hopeful I am definitely going to get a new bolt for the next change and hopefully will get it soted. Any ideas where to get one? Also if the sump has stripped, is it an easy removal and what would be the best way to sort it permanently? Thanks Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sideexitsupra Posted May 4, 2011 Share Posted May 4, 2011 Not sure about relative strengths but have read elsewhere on here that to remove the sump you have to lift the engine! Good luck getting it sorted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham S Posted May 4, 2011 Share Posted May 4, 2011 Are you changing the washer each time too dude? As you said, they normally chew the sump before the plug. Not all bad though, there are kits out there to re-thread the sump. The VW's do it all the time, done shed loads! As Mooret says, you need to lift the engine to get the sump out but shouldn't need to go that far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted May 4, 2011 Share Posted May 4, 2011 Use a Dowty seal instead of a copper / alloy washer and a few foot pounds is all the torque it will need. Otherwise drop the pan and Helicoil the female thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robzki Posted May 4, 2011 Author Share Posted May 4, 2011 Thanks all, I'll leave it until after japfest, I was thinking a helicoil would be needed. wasn't sure on the engine out bit tho. was hoping the sump could be removed by removing other stuff, seems a bit drastic. Thanks for your help though rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted May 5, 2011 Share Posted May 5, 2011 Much easier to do it in situ than to remove the sump. The 2 options are engine out or subframe drop. There is also a silicon like sealant on the sump so it can be a messy PITA to get it off. Far easier to get a creeper, lie back with some tunes on and tap/helicoil it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted May 5, 2011 Share Posted May 5, 2011 The steel part of the sump, the part with the drain bung in it, can be removed without taking the engine out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robzki Posted May 5, 2011 Author Share Posted May 5, 2011 To do it in situ I was worried about swarf etc getting in the sump, although I am a little naive on helicoils as I have never used them. As Mr Wilson says, I thought the lower sump part was seperate, I have to go under there later so I will go on a reccy mission. I can't recall the layout of the sump.As my age increases my memory decreases Thanks Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted May 5, 2011 Share Posted May 5, 2011 I would be wary of doing a Helicoil in situ, there is a real danger of swarf and the tang of the Helicoil insert staying in the sump. It is possible to remove the steel pan without any great dramas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robzki Posted May 5, 2011 Author Share Posted May 5, 2011 Thanks Chris, appreciate your time. I'm nervous drilling/tapping on anything in situ I've just fitted some ait sensors and the swarf inside the pipes etc was amazing. I drilled v slowly with a pin sharp drill so excess came out in coils, but there still was an excessive amount internally. I'm not even sure the threads have gone. I'll wait for a gap in the car use and have a look. I don't want to order parts I won't need. Thanks all Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colmcork Posted May 23, 2011 Share Posted May 23, 2011 I had the very same problem as yourself mate, it seemed as though the last owner never replaced the washer on the sump plug when doing oil changes. In order to get a good seal he must have had to really squeeze the plug thus damaging the threads. When I went and did my first oil change i was then facing the task of re-tapping the sump. Managed it fine though, and did it in situ. Just had to get a larger sump plug and plenty of spare washers for the future. If memory serves me I also flushed through some cheapo oil with the sump plug removed to clear any possible filings that may have remained. Hope this is of some help to you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robzki Posted May 23, 2011 Author Share Posted May 23, 2011 Yes thanks for the info, glad I'm not the only 'unlucky' one here. I'm going to attempt it next week. Where did you get the larger sump plug? Thanks again, appreciate it Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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