jonathanc Posted May 1, 2011 Share Posted May 1, 2011 Right all, I think I've finally found my love for photography again so would like to ask advice of the many photography experts here I currently own a Nikon D90 with the 18-105 Nikkor lens. This setup is great for general use and I am now experimenting with using the camera in "P" mode adjusting the ISO and White balance to achieve the effect I desire. I find this helpful in situations where flash is not allowed which is better than using the camera's "no flash" mode. The type of photography I mostly do is photographing cars, buildings and nature scenes. Sometimes on family trips I also need to do quick shots when lighting is tricky. Anyway... on to the questions 1) I am thinking of getting an external flash as in my old Canon using external flash seemed to yield better results. What flash would you recommend as a first flash for an amateur like me? 2) I am thinking of getting a second lens for the times when I photographing stuff like my car. What lens would you recommend? I also like to take a lot of nature photographs. 3) Can you guys recommend me some good settings for my D90? I am playing around in "P" mode but would really know a good setup for Picture Control, Active D-Lighintg, Focus points etc.. 4) Can you guys recommend any good post processing softwares? I am using a combination of the free PAINT.NET and Nikons NX2 at the moment but wondering if there are better stuff out there Any tips/pointers much welcomed Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lbm Posted May 1, 2011 Share Posted May 1, 2011 Right then...give me a minute... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonathanc Posted May 1, 2011 Author Share Posted May 1, 2011 Right then...give me a minute... No probs mate Just cracked open a cold can of beer I have all the time in the world Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lbm Posted May 1, 2011 Share Posted May 1, 2011 I currently own a Nikon D90 with the 18-105 Nikkor lens. This setup is great for general use and I am now experimenting with using the camera in "P" mode adjusting the ISO and White balance to achieve the effect I desire. I find this helpful in situations where flash is not allowed which is better than using the camera's "no flash" mode. The type of photography I mostly do is photographing cars, buildings and nature scenes. Sometimes on family trips I also need to do quick shots when lighting is tricky. Anyway... on to the questions 1) I am thinking of getting an external flash as in my old Canon using external flash seemed to yield better results. What flash would you recommend as a first flash for an amateur like me? I think a Nissin Di-622MK2 would be a good place to start. http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0044779EA/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_1?pf_rd_p=103612307&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B0044779DG&pf_rd_m=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&pf_rd_r=012Z79M05MNQ68E9F8JT 2) I am thinking of getting a second lens for the times when I photographing stuff like my car. What lens would you recommend? I also like to take a lot of nature photographs. Perhaps a wide angle lens for cars 10-22mm, however I use my Tamron 17-50mm F2.8, and it seems to work well. Or perhaps a 70-200mm zoom might be good. Ok with cars you'd have to make sure no one got in the way but the pictures would like great. The same for nature too. (I have a Canon 85mm F1.8, but you might find that focul length a little short for your nature stuff.) 3) Can you guys recommend me some good settings for my D90? I am playing around in "P" mode but would really know a good setup for Picture Control, Active D-Lighintg, Focus points etc.. The thing with P mode is, yes it will get you a correct exposure, but is it the creatively creative exposure? Suppose you wanted your background out of focus and your subject in focus...well using P mode may be a bit hit & miss here...but, if you goto 'A' mode (aperture priority) and dialed in a nice low aperture like F2.8 or F4 and you had the subject quite close, you would throw the background out of focus more easily than if the camera selected say F8 or something in P mode. 4) Can you guys recommend any good post processing softwares? I am using a combination of the free PAINT.NET and Nikons NX2 at the moment but wondering if there are better stuff out there I love Lightroom 3. Very easy to use. It's worth downloading the free 30 day trial and see whether it makes sense to you Any tips/pointers much welcomed Thanks! I think a tripod is a good purchase. It will really help attain tack sharp shots, particularly if the light isn't so good and you need a slower shutter speed, that under hand held condition would render the picture blurry. Also get a spare battery if you don't already have one (try 7dayshop) and perhaps as you're into car and nature stuff, I think a circular polarizing filter would be a must to remove reflections from windscreens and make skies beautifully saturated and clouds go "pop" etc... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonathanc Posted May 1, 2011 Author Share Posted May 1, 2011 Very nice reply there Lbm! I do have tripod but the catch 22 is whenever there's low light situation is normally when I am taking family shots (like inside Sea Life for example) so I rarely have time/space to setup the tripod. However, when I take nature night shots I always have it setup. Also already have a spare battery I use P because (for my camera anyway) it is the easiest way to be a little creative. The D90 has nice feature for autofocussing so you can get pretty good results as well. I like how it allows me to set the white balance so I can manipulate how the picture "feels". Using Auto mode produces nice pictures but it doesn't allow for some creative shots. I use "A" mode when photographing moving things like waterfalls for example. Works a treat with a tripod Also had a few good shots last year in Silverstone but could've done better with proper zoom lens Thanks for Lightroom 3! Will definitely have a gander. 70-200mm lens more for zoom work isn't it? When I take pictures of cars its normally pretty close by. I think first I will get a flash and see if that helps. With my current lens I need to move a fair distance away to get the composition I want and sometimes the flash is not powerful enough to expose the areas I want. As for the filter, I hear it makes a world of a difference sometimes. I am only using a UV filter now but might venture into polarising filters. Thing is I can't guarantee there would be always proper sunlight so not sure which filters to choose. I know of mates who have really amazing sunset shots with the correct filter choice. p/s: Do I need a flash diffuser? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lbm Posted May 1, 2011 Share Posted May 1, 2011 Perhaps get a 50mm F1.8 for family shots/general walk around lens. The extra light this lens allows can help in your low light situations. Also, I used to shoot in Jpeg. I still do for some shots, but should you venture into Raw, you will see if you didn't quite nail the White Balnce or exposure or picture style, or you want the Active D lighting turned off after all, you can always recover afterwards in PP. However, I also understand the notion of getting the shot right first time and some people don't want to spend their lives at their PC PPing. I don't either - I just can't help it If you haven't already, do check out "Understanding Exposure" by Bryan Peterson. It's a very useful book. The only types of filter I use are Circular Polarizing and Neutral Density & Graduated Neutral Density. I mostly use the CPL though. Don't worry about other types of filter really other than those I mentioned. You're shooting digital, not film. Personally I don't use a UV filter - It adds nothing to the picture, and I always keep the lens hood on for protection. Should you get a flash diffuser...like a stofen? Outdoors - absolutely not. Indoors - get an ebay one for £6 and learn how to bounce flash. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonathanc Posted May 1, 2011 Author Share Posted May 1, 2011 Cheers again for the input I've found Ken Rockwell's site really helpful. I like to set Picture control to vivid and bump saturation up Might go Currys or Jessops tomorrow to see if they stock any decent flash. Planning to get a wide angle lens in the near future just need to pick the right one. I prefer to take shots (when possible) without flash as I believe it brings out the true image of the subject. In most situations flash just makes the composition more artificial. However, no doubt sometimes a decent flash can be really good as well - even on bright days! I took a closeup of the missus in Disneyland on a bright day and the flash really made a difference. Made her and the background really stand out. edit: Would you recommend any good Nikon lens which is fairly wide angle and work well in low light situations? Don't really mind if it doesn't zoom that much but would like a decent lens like this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lbm Posted May 1, 2011 Share Posted May 1, 2011 Just bear in mind that using flash just as fill light (even the pop up one on your camera if you have no other choice) makes a huge difference to a shot. So when you enter into the realms of bounce flash or off camera flash, it can really upgrade your picture quality. Sometimes even if you have a low(ish) light zoom like a 17-50/55 mm F2.8, that F2.8 aperture may not be bright enough. Yes you can up your ISO, but it still may not be bight enough, plus you get more noise. "OK, I'll buy an F1.8 lens..." again sounds like a plan; except if you're thinking of always using it at F1.8 (for low light) you may have such a shallow depth of filed, one eye of your subject is in focus and the other is out! So, buy a flash! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonathanc Posted May 1, 2011 Author Share Posted May 1, 2011 HAha true Thing about flash is it sometimes makes the colour look a bit off. However, having a ball playing with Lightroom 3 now lol. So easy to make normal photos look amazing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lbm Posted May 2, 2011 Share Posted May 2, 2011 HAha true Thing about flash is it sometimes makes the colour look a bit off. However, having a ball playing with Lightroom 3 now lol. So easy to make normal photos look amazing I agree with this, however it's not too hard to balance ambient light (if there is any) with fill flash. You may even start entering into the realms of placing CTO/S (orange) gels on your flash to blend with indoor (tungsten) lamps...no matter, in the end, the trick is to make the flash shot look like it was taken without flash, rather than an overpowered blunderbuss of overexposure - just check most people's holiday snaps, particularly those taken indoors or at night - yikes..my eyes, my eyes! ...and choosing the correct colour temperature for White Balance brings it all together nicely and more importantly, naturally. And yes LR3 is pretty good isn't it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sdistc Posted May 2, 2011 Share Posted May 2, 2011 Lbm has it right - first things you should buy when shooting static objects (scenery etc.) are a tripod, filter (UV or polariser), and perhaps another lens with the focal length to suit your purpose (close wide-angle prime + wide-angle to longer zoom than you have). But the 18-105 should be perfectly serviceable for what your needs seem to be - you probably just need to experiment more. A flash used outdoors will generally wash out the subject unless diffused (again, as said above) so investing in some 18% gray cards will help set white-balance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonathanc Posted May 2, 2011 Author Share Posted May 2, 2011 Lbm has it right - first things you should buy when shooting static objects (scenery etc.) are a tripod, filter (UV or polariser), and perhaps another lens with the focal length to suit your purpose (close wide-angle prime + wide-angle to longer zoom than you have). But the 18-105 should be perfectly serviceable for what your needs seem to be - you probably just need to experiment more. A flash used outdoors will generally wash out the subject unless diffused (again, as said above) so investing in some 18% gray cards will help set white-balance. 18-105 is a great general purpose lens and the VR works really good. However, it's not a particular good lens for lower light situations (or maybe its just me thats not skillful enough ). It came with the camera and hence I've been using it since. However, a true photographer should have a collection of lens is it not? I think the next investment would be a flash followed by a good short range wide angle lens. I always wanted a wide angle lens but never got around to buy it. To be honest I rarely use the zoom feature on this lens but hopefully with a proper flash I will use it more. I am a big fan of "natural" colours. I know pictures will look pin sharp with proper fill flash but it just looks artificial. Hopefully I can slowly improve my technique to get better results without the need of too much PP. edit: Tried to attach pictures from my website but they are too big lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sdistc Posted May 2, 2011 Share Posted May 2, 2011 IMO, low light photos are dependent on 1) minimising camera shake (i.e. mono/tripod/beanbag stabilisation), and 2) ISO sensitivity of the camera (more high-end cameras will have better noise-reduction features *and* higher ISO values). You can still get better photos with a less expensive camera on a tripod than a full-frame camera hand-held. I'm actually in your situation now - I *need* a tripod, filter and a zoom lens (I'm going for the Canon 18-200 3.5-5.6 IS USM)... but have had bigger, more expensive fish to fry. Can you link us to your website? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonathanc Posted May 2, 2011 Author Share Posted May 2, 2011 IMO, low light photos are dependent on 1) minimising camera shake (i.e. mono/tripod/beanbag stabilisation), and 2) ISO sensitivity of the camera (more high-end cameras will have better noise-reduction features *and* higher ISO values). You can still get better photos with a less expensive camera on a tripod than a full-frame camera hand-held. I'm actually in your situation now - I *need* a tripod, filter and a zoom lens (I'm going for the Canon 18-200 3.5-5.6 IS USM)... but have had bigger, more expensive fish to fry. Can you link us to your website? It's in my sig http://pics.jonathanchye.co.uk. I just set it up though so not many photos on it yet. Mostly playing with the code atm to get the feel right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sdistc Posted May 2, 2011 Share Posted May 2, 2011 Ahh.. I have all signatures turned off to reduce forum clutter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thorin Posted May 3, 2011 Share Posted May 3, 2011 I'd definitely look at getting a prime lens, I love my Canon 50mm f/1.8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian W Posted May 3, 2011 Share Posted May 3, 2011 I'd definitely look at getting a prime lens, I love my Canon 50mm f/1.8 As Thorin and Lbm have said, get yourself a prime. 50mm (nifty fifty) seems to be the most popular choice but that's mainly because it's so cheap in Canon fitment. I have the Nikkor 35mm 1.8 and it's my most used lens and rarely off the camera (also works similar to a 50mm on a FF body, given I have a crop sensor on my D40x). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sdistc Posted May 3, 2011 Share Posted May 3, 2011 I'm with Ian - I'd probably go more for a 35 mm prime (my 50mm 1.8 doesn't have enough wide-angle). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grahamc Posted May 3, 2011 Share Posted May 3, 2011 50mm on a cropped sensor might be a bit much, give the 35mm a go as well. Both are very good. I use a 50mm 1.4 and 24mm 2.8 on my full frame camera. For the wider shots, look at a sigma 10-20 everyone I know who shots cars - has one. For the flash I would go go for a sb600 and get some diffusers, which can soften the light and even change the colour glow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grahamc Posted May 3, 2011 Share Posted May 3, 2011 Here's a rig shot with my d300 same sensor as the d90 using a sigma 10-20 http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5184/5617112727_5b67939879.jpg mini rig shot by graham.cleverly, on Flickr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biguns Posted May 3, 2011 Share Posted May 3, 2011 The 70-200mm vr is a great lens and gives good results for portraits, the other lens you could look at is the nikkor 24-70 f2.8 which I use as my carry round lens. I use these at full frame but they should still give good results on a DX sensor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grahamc Posted May 3, 2011 Share Posted May 3, 2011 The 70-200mm vr is a great lens and gives good results for portraits, the other lens you could look at is the nikkor 24-70 f2.8 which I use as my carry round lens. I use these at full frame but they should still give good results on a DX sensor. Will definitely give good results on a DX, problem with those lenses, is the cost!!! I have the 17-35mm f2.8 and that was nearly 1K. 24-70 is the same price, the 70-200 is is around 1.5k. Lot of money for a lens Though I will buy them eventually Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lbm Posted May 3, 2011 Share Posted May 3, 2011 Will definitely give good results on a DX, problem with those lenses, is the cost!!! I have the 17-35mm f2.8 and that was nearly 1K. 24-70 is the same price, the 70-200 is is around 1.5k. Lot of money for a lens Though I will buy them eventually Agree about the cost. Nice shot of the mini btw Graham. In fact it's excellent Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonathanc Posted May 3, 2011 Author Share Posted May 3, 2011 Yeah looked at prime lens too but I think that would be the first choice to venture into wide angles. I've looked at other wide angle low light lenses and they are simply too expensive for me at the moment. So 10-20mm is good for my camera? (D90)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ric Posted May 3, 2011 Share Posted May 3, 2011 Graham, is that a home made rig or something you bought? if so, links please Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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