mellonman Posted April 25, 2011 Share Posted April 25, 2011 (edited) after refurbing my uk brakes i thought i would share the experiance, jack up car remove front wheel fasten disc to hub with nuts remove pins and anti rattle spring and pads now go get your self a friend or the mrs press the brake pedal to push the pistons out and watch closely as the pistons will not come out at the same time i had a 1mm shim to put in between piston and disc ( to stop it before it popped out completely ) proceed to do this with each piston remove brake hose clamp brake hose i have braided hoses so clamped 2 plates over the end. remove the 2 mounting bolts that hold the calipar remove cylinder boots or whats left of them with a small flat end screwdriver remove the pistons which are very near coming out the correct way is to put a air line on and push out with air,but i used 2 pri bars carefully on the lip that the boots locate on ( make sure you apply even pressure on the piston so it comes out square) remove piston seals with screwdriver now its time for some very fine wet and dry to clean your pistons also use the wet and dry to clean the inside of the calipar clyinder grease the piston the seal and boot put in your new seals push the piston in evenly put on your piston boots put on the boot ring i found best to make the ring one big ring and then slip over boot put the calipar back on and attach brake hose replace your brake pads and put all pins and anti rattle spring bleed your brakes with your helper get them to pump the brake pedal until your brake fluid is flushed through make sure that the brake fluid is always topped up once flushed through as your helper is pushing down on padal tighten bleed valve making sure they hold the brake down and dont come back up for another pump. whilst bleeding the brakes you should always start at the fervest wheel away from the master cylinder. well i hope this helps anyone attemping it that can use a search button. Edited March 15, 2012 by mellonman (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted April 25, 2011 Share Posted April 25, 2011 Use CW stainless pistons so this is a one off event? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy-No-Knee Posted April 26, 2011 Share Posted April 26, 2011 Very nice!! Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mellonman Posted March 15, 2012 Author Share Posted March 15, 2012 now i know how to add pictures correctly i have edited for ease of use enjoy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheefa Posted March 27, 2016 Share Posted March 27, 2016 Bump! Looks like I'll be doing this then....! Thanks for the great write up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MATT RR Posted March 28, 2016 Share Posted March 28, 2016 Nice write up! Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheefa Posted January 19, 2017 Share Posted January 19, 2017 An excellent and well written guide. I'm doing my UK rears now so thought this was worthy of a bump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted January 19, 2017 Share Posted January 19, 2017 One tip a brake refurber once gave me is with those fiddly dust boots Toyota use, they can be a PITA to get to stay on the caliper body whilst you get the spring rings on that hold them in place, especially if the shoulder they sit on has been corroded over the years. If you make SURE there is NO grease or fluid on the area, and you don't get any grease or fluid on the boots, cyano-acrylate instant glue ("Super Glue") will hod them nicely in place. If we see people walking into A and E with rubber dust boots stuck to their fingers we'll know why, won't we? I do them that way and it makes a fiddly job easier IMHO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mellonman Posted January 19, 2017 Author Share Posted January 19, 2017 The boots and the ring spring are by far the worst bit of this job . Thanks for the nice comments glad it helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob W Posted January 19, 2017 Share Posted January 19, 2017 As above, how many times I thought I was going to tare the boots with the spring when it slipped off! Well worth it tho, what a difference it made. Atleast now I've done them with the stainless steel pistons and pins I don't have to worry about them again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Massey Posted January 19, 2017 Share Posted January 19, 2017 I must be really lucky as I found the springs easy and went on within the first 200 try's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted January 19, 2017 Share Posted January 19, 2017 Personally I always split the caliper halves as it's so much better access for cleaning and re-assembly. And these puppies need to be surgically clean in the bores and surrounding area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted January 20, 2017 Share Posted January 20, 2017 When i've done them i split the two halves, even after a thorough clean with brake cleaner and compressed air through the fluid holes i found a large build up of dirt etc that was stuck on the face by the seals that seal the two halves. Where the light blue arrows are in the photo For that reason i'd strongly recommend splitting them if you do them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mellonman Posted January 20, 2017 Author Share Posted January 20, 2017 Hate to say it but I was informed by toyota NOT to split the caliper, idident ask more questions then that , but you make your owm choice from that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheefa Posted January 20, 2017 Share Posted January 20, 2017 I refurbed mine and cleaned them up without splitting. Checked the fronts again 6 months later and they're both spot on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted January 21, 2017 Share Posted January 21, 2017 I'd guess because Toyota don't supply the two seals, i can't see any other reason. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted January 21, 2017 Share Posted January 21, 2017 They don't list the bolts to hold the halves together either, and they are a VERY odd size. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mellonman Posted January 21, 2017 Author Share Posted January 21, 2017 Thinking about it toyota would of also said not to bolt a 67mm turbo on to the side of the engine doesnt mean its wrong though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted January 22, 2017 Share Posted January 22, 2017 Thinking about it toyota would of also said not to bolt a 67mm turbo on to the side of the engine doesnt mean its wrong though Agreed. The calipers are only two pieces held together with 4 bolts, nothing tricky in taking them apart and putting back together other than they need to be spotlessly clean Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Angarak Posted January 22, 2017 Share Posted January 22, 2017 Has anyone ever used ultrasonic cleaning to get their caliper halves clean? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted January 22, 2017 Share Posted January 22, 2017 Has anyone ever used ultrasonic cleaning to get their caliper halves clean? /QUOTE] I've cleaned motorcycle carburetors with ultrasonic and it worked very well I media blasted the calipers in the photo i posted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheefa Posted January 30, 2017 Share Posted January 30, 2017 I found these punch pins extremely useful for removing the horrid, corroded pad retention pins. I had to bash mine out and whilst you can try and use an old pin to do it they bend easily and don't allow you to apply enough force. I also found that if you can get the pin to move a good cm the right way they knock it back again and dremel/cut the end off where the clip goes. That way when you knock it carefully back out you have an little room in the pin retention hole to place the punch pin into and knock the stuck one all the way out. WD40 of course helps. Just clean the entire area with brake cleaner afterwards and ideally use a compressor to remove any dust/dirt particles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastphil666 Posted February 11, 2020 Share Posted February 11, 2020 Thanks for the help guys. Does anyone know a part number for the pistons for front uk spec from toyota? Would like to fit stainless, funds say no. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted February 11, 2020 Share Posted February 11, 2020 Thanks for the help guys. Does anyone know a part number for the pistons for front uk spec from toyota? Would like to fit stainless, funds say no. I doubt they will be cheaper from Toyota. https://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_E_1994_TOYOTA_SUPRA_JZA80R-ALPVZW_4705.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted February 11, 2020 Share Posted February 11, 2020 (edited) I just found them on ebay and very cheap but please check the numbers etc and price at Toyota before ordering, i have never used the ebay seller or Amayama https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4773114110-Genuine-Toyota-PISTON-FRONT-DISC-BRAKE-47731-14110-/182340536875 Or https://www.amayama.com/en/part/toyota/4773114110 Or try the traders on here who might beat these prices Edited February 11, 2020 by Dnk (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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