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uk brake refurb


mellonman

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after refurbing my uk brakes i thought i would share the experiance,

 

jack up car

 

remove front wheel

 

fasten disc to hub with nuts

 

remove pins and anti rattle spring and pads

 

now go get your self a friend or the mrs

 

press the brake pedal to push the pistons out and watch closely as the pistons will not come out at the same time i had a 1mm shim to put in between piston and disc ( to stop it before it popped out completely )

IMG00257-20110422-1434.jpg

proceed to do this with each piston

 

remove brake hose

 

clamp brake hose i have braided hoses so clamped 2 plates over the end.

IMG00258-20110422-1434.jpg

remove the 2 mounting bolts that hold the calipar

 

remove cylinder boots or whats left of them with a small flat end screwdriver

 

remove the pistons which are very near coming out the correct way is to put a air line on and push out with air,but i used 2 pri bars carefully on the lip that the boots locate on ( make sure you apply even pressure on the piston so it comes out square)

IMG00259-20110422-1448.jpg

remove piston seals with screwdriver

 

now its time for some very fine wet and dry to clean your pistons

IMG00261-20110422-1509.jpg

also use the wet and dry to clean the inside of the calipar clyinder

IMG00262-20110422-1530.jpg

grease the piston the seal and boot

 

put in your new seals

 

push the piston in evenly

IMG00263-20110422-1534.jpg

put on your piston boots

 

put on the boot ring i found best to make the ring one big ring and then slip over boot

IMG00264-20110422-1535.jpg

put the calipar back on and attach brake hose

IMG00265-20110422-1539.jpgIMG00266-20110422-1551.jpg

replace your brake pads and put all pins and anti rattle spring

 

bleed your brakes with your helper

 

get them to pump the brake pedal until your brake fluid is flushed through

 

make sure that the brake fluid is always topped up

 

once flushed through as your helper is pushing down on padal tighten bleed valve making sure they hold the brake down and dont come back up for another pump.

 

whilst bleeding the brakes you should always start at the fervest wheel away from the master cylinder.

 

 

well i hope this helps anyone attemping it that can use a search button.

IMG00257-20110422-1434.jpg

IMG00258-20110422-1434.jpg

IMG00260-20110422-1448.jpg

IMG00259-20110422-1448.jpg

IMG00261-20110422-1509.jpg

IMG00262-20110422-1530.jpg

IMG00263-20110422-1534.jpg

IMG00264-20110422-1535.jpg

IMG00265-20110422-1539.jpg

IMG00266-20110422-1551.jpg

Edited by mellonman (see edit history)
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  • 10 months later...
  • 4 years later...
  • 9 months later...

One tip a brake refurber once gave me is with those fiddly dust boots Toyota use, they can be a PITA to get to stay on the caliper body whilst you get the spring rings on that hold them in place, especially if the shoulder they sit on has been corroded over the years. If you make SURE there is NO grease or fluid on the area, and you don't get any grease or fluid on the boots, cyano-acrylate instant glue ("Super Glue") will hod them nicely in place. If we see people walking into A and E with rubber dust boots stuck to their fingers we'll know why, won't we? ;) I do them that way and it makes a fiddly job easier IMHO.

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As above, how many times I thought I was going to tare the boots with the spring when it slipped off!

 

Well worth it tho, what a difference it made. Atleast now I've done them with the stainless steel pistons and pins I don't have to worry about them again.

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When i've done them i split the two halves, even after a thorough clean with brake cleaner and compressed air through

the fluid holes i found a large build up of dirt etc that was stuck on the face by the seals that seal the two halves.

 

Where the light blue arrows are in the photo

 

For that reason i'd strongly recommend splitting them if you do them.

calipers 006.jpg

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Thinking about it toyota would of also said not to bolt a 67mm turbo on to the side of the engine doesnt mean its wrong though ;)

 

Agreed.

 

The calipers are only two pieces held together with 4 bolts, nothing tricky in taking them apart and putting back together other

than they need to be spotlessly clean

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  • 2 weeks later...

imageimage

 

I found these punch pins extremely useful for removing the horrid, corroded pad retention pins. I had to bash mine out and whilst you can try and use an old pin to do it they bend easily and don't allow you to apply enough force.

 

I also found that if you can get the pin to move a good cm the right way they knock it back again and dremel/cut the end off where the clip goes. That way when you knock it carefully back out you have an little room in the pin retention hole to place the punch pin into and knock the stuck one all the way out. WD40 of course helps. Just clean the entire area with brake cleaner afterwards and ideally use a compressor to remove any dust/dirt particles.

 

 

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  • 3 years later...

I just found them on ebay and very cheap but please check the numbers etc and price at Toyota before

ordering, i have never used the ebay seller or Amayama

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4773114110-Genuine-Toyota-PISTON-FRONT-DISC-BRAKE-47731-14110-/182340536875

 

Or

 

https://www.amayama.com/en/part/toyota/4773114110

 

Or try the traders on here who might beat these prices

Edited by Dnk (see edit history)
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