Scott Posted April 24, 2011 Share Posted April 24, 2011 Surely the battery was disconnected during the swap though? I don't understand how it would store codes from an engine swap. If you have a TT engine and a TT ecu, why would there be all those codes stored? It's a good place to start though, reset the ECU... give the car a run and see what comes back. When swapping an engine there are a lot of things that need to be checked over and in most cases adjusted. It's not as simple as throwing one out and chucking another in. I guess you know that now though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted April 24, 2011 Share Posted April 24, 2011 I doubt it would run at all with all those fault codes current Clear the codes by disconnecting the battery for 10 minutes and drive until the warning light shows again, then re read them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackie Posted April 24, 2011 Author Share Posted April 24, 2011 I did a quick disconect and checked the codes before I ran it and I still had code 21, I will disconnect it for ten mins then take if for a drive Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted April 24, 2011 Share Posted April 24, 2011 I doubt it would run at all with all those fault codes current Clear the codes by disconnecting the battery for 10 minutes and drive until the warning light shows again, then re read them. Beat me to it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackie Posted April 24, 2011 Author Share Posted April 24, 2011 Beat me to it What? The disconnect for ten mins or you doubt it would run? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted April 24, 2011 Share Posted April 24, 2011 What? The disconnect for ten mins or you doubt it would run? Both Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackie Posted April 24, 2011 Author Share Posted April 24, 2011 Did the ten min reset, Took it out (Now my bloody kickdown dont work, Is this something to do with the reset or throttle position sensor?) and the codes that have come back are 21 main o2 sensor 41 Throttle position sensor 42 Speed sensor signal circuit (Its been delimeted) What can i do? The kick down thing has really pi$$ed me off and got no chance of getting on the second turbo on our little roads, I had to hold it in 2nd to get it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob W Posted April 24, 2011 Share Posted April 24, 2011 That sounds abit strange. I don't see how you resetting the ecu would suddenly stop the kickdown from working. Is it still running lumpy? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackie Posted April 24, 2011 Author Share Posted April 24, 2011 That sounds abit strange. I don't see how you resetting the ecu would suddenly stop the kickdown from working. Is it still running lumpy? Sometimes, I'm going to get clips anyway I think, what to do about all the other problems? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackie Posted April 24, 2011 Author Share Posted April 24, 2011 Just found this on the throttle position sensor, With it coming up on an error code does it explain why my kickdowns not working? "Related to the TPS are accelerator pedal sensors, which often include a wide open throttle (WOT) sensor. The accelerator pedal sensors are used in "drive by wire" systems, and the most common use of a wide open throttle sensor is for the kick-down function on automatic transmissions" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob W Posted April 24, 2011 Share Posted April 24, 2011 Sometimes, I'm going to get clips anyway I think, what to do about all the other problems? Well the clips are a start, atleast it will take those out of the question, worth doing IMO. If your O2 sensor has gone, it will automatically go to rich map which could cause it to run abit lumpy at the lower rpm range. I don't know about the throttle position sensor mate, have a look at the fault code descriptions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackie Posted April 24, 2011 Author Share Posted April 24, 2011 The tps makes it lumpy too. At low revs it sometimes feels like it's going to stall, the tps also contains the wide open throttle sensor so I've lost my kickdown too. Should have one coming, they are quite cheap. The only major confusing thing is the speed sensor curcuit thing, I'm guessing it's because of the way it's been de limited? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian R Posted April 24, 2011 Share Posted April 24, 2011 The TPS may not be past it. I remember that when I put a polished throttle body on my TT that it slipped and I got similar problems to yours. So it may just have come loose and need repositioning and tightening back up. It is a PITA to get just in the right position though it took lots of patience to get it just right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackie Posted April 24, 2011 Author Share Posted April 24, 2011 Is the grub screw with a nut on it that's next to it anything to do with adjustment? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian R Posted April 24, 2011 Share Posted April 24, 2011 TBH mate I can't remember. What I do remember was twisting it into the right position until it was just right. I was one of those trial and error jobbies. What I do remember was that the OD light was blinking on and off. I had to keep resetting the ECU to stop it flashing. It was flashing again if in wrong position. As for code 42 IIRC that only normally comes up if you have a dodgy speed delimiter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackie Posted April 24, 2011 Author Share Posted April 24, 2011 TBH mate I can't remember. What I do remember was twisting it into the right position until it was just right. I was one of those trial and error jobbies. What I do remember was that the OD light was blinking on and off. I had to keep resetting the ECU to stop it flashing. It was flashing again if in wrong position. As for code 42 IIRC that only normally comes up if you have a dodgy speed delimiter. My od lights been flashing abit too, I will have a tweak tomorrow see if it helps. I had a feeling that's what code 42 was, nothing major to worry about really? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homer Posted April 25, 2011 Share Posted April 25, 2011 Al, careful with some of the stuff mentioned the last few hours... Was the engine an Aristo or Supra one? The O2 error could be quite a few things, not sure on the cause of this unless it's something simple like a poor connection. The TPS error is tricky, you mentioned this was a non-VVTI in the PM so this may be poor signal or incorrect setup. This will need diagnosis to check the TPS input voltages. The speed sensor error is almost certainly a bad speed converter issue, it's very common when generic converters are used on the Supra. Any idea which converter has been used? Did the car previously have a delimiter or converter fitted? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted April 25, 2011 Share Posted April 25, 2011 You need to get someone to put a `scope on the O2 sensor dignostic terminals in the diagnostic connector, and to measure the TPS output voltages at the ECU. You also need to find out why the ecu isn't getting a speed sensor signal. Is it a stock car, or has it been fiddled with? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackie Posted April 25, 2011 Author Share Posted April 25, 2011 (edited) Al, careful with some of the stuff mentioned the last few hours... Was the engine an Aristo or Supra one? The O2 error could be quite a few things, not sure on the cause of this unless it's something simple like a poor connection. The TPS error is tricky, you mentioned this was a non-VVTI in the PM so this may be poor signal or incorrect setup. This will need diagnosis to check the TPS input voltages. The speed sensor error is almost certainly a bad speed converter issue, it's very common when generic converters are used on the Supra. Any idea which converter has been used? Did the car previously have a delimiter or converter fitted? Its an Aristo engine, The kickdown works fine when its cold then stops working after about five mins. Its been working since ive had it back it just started mucking around over the past week or so. Not sure about the speed delimiter but im guessing generic. So its going to have to go on a launch anyway then? No delimiter or converter fitted previously You need to get someone to put a `scope on the O2 sensor dignostic terminals in the diagnostic connector, and to measure the TPS output voltages at the ECU. You also need to find out why the ecu isn't getting a speed sensor signal. Is it a stock car, or has it been fiddled with? Its an Aristo engine and ECU when it was previously a non turbo so not quite stock. As above it was all working but now its not, I will still send it to the garage tomorrow, Checking the TPS outputs at the ECU is a specialised job is it? Is it possible for me to check the TPS outputs with an ohm meter of something? Edited April 25, 2011 by Blackie (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackie Posted April 25, 2011 Author Share Posted April 25, 2011 Does anyone know the ohm's the TPS should be giving out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted April 25, 2011 Share Posted April 25, 2011 None of the tests are complex to a good auto electrician and diagnostic man. TPS set up is simply done with a voltmeter and the workshop manual figures. `Scoping the O2 sensor output is again easy. The failure of kickdown when warm may be associated with a bad speed converter. I would have it found it and removed for now, whilst you sort the thing out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackie Posted April 25, 2011 Author Share Posted April 25, 2011 None of the tests are complex to a good auto electrician and diagnostic man. TPS set up is simply done with a voltmeter and the workshop manual figures. `Scoping the O2 sensor output is again easy. The failure of kickdown when warm may be associated with a bad speed converter. I would have it found it and removed for now, whilst you sort the thing out. The only figures i can find are 0-5v, Im going to test it myself in a min Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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