H7ERO Posted April 10, 2011 Share Posted April 10, 2011 NA manual 1995 Scenario 1 last night: got in the car to get some petrol distance of petrol station 1.5 miles away. initially the pedal felt as normal, after 2 mins of driving i could feel the pedal becoming much harder with no give at all ie if you just touch it it was like braking with the force of an emergency stop. i tried to clear it by doing a few emergency stops using the abs to pump the system seemed to work initially for a brief while. by the time i was at the petrol station i could feel the brakes were binding on as id have to use more gas to manouver. (brake disc temperature similar to after a 30 min comute ie warm not to hot to touch but definalty v warm now this is the wierd bit: stopped the car to fill up left it for a at least 10 mins to have a good look for kinked brake lines inpsect the servo etc now when i got back n to drive home it was almost as if the brakes were locked really struggled almost using full power to get the 1.5 miles home. Scenario 2 obviously i had to check this out thouroughly so i put the car on stands (under to wishbones to mimic ride height) discs turning freely by hand, checked lock to lock no kinks or twist in flexi lines no damage to hard lines no visible damage to abs pump or master cyl pumped braked pedal felt normal as with engine off ie hardens up after 3 or so pumps ( engine on now) discs still turning fine again testing lock to lock pedal felt normal as the engine warmed up it became stiffer but still turnable by hand so i was scratching my head for a few mins the engine warmed up (fans came on -ive got electric) went to try and trun the disc again it very stiff to turn! the cars driven no where its on stands and the calipers are cold. turned the steering lock to lock and now they were well and truly stuck on unturnable by hand. So i disconected the brake sevro- no change tried pumping pedal etc lock to lock no change disconected (unpluged) ABS again pumped pedal lock to lock no change i was able to turn the disc by putting the wheel back on and using force but it was obviously binding tight now. Bonnet was open temperature of master cylinder nominal and same for abs (ie they went warm from the engine but may have warmed slightly only 2-4 deg at most) calipers cold .two days ago i did a drift day at santa pod 120mile round trip and dove the hell out of it brakes were fine the whole day Stumped for now! im thinking ABS pump siezed? or master cyl seized? anyone exerience similar probs any ideas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted April 11, 2011 Share Posted April 11, 2011 Bleed back hole in MC bunged up. Is the fluid dirty in the bottom of the reservoir? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H7ERO Posted April 11, 2011 Author Share Posted April 11, 2011 yes fluid is condition is terible . . . i guess this means MC off . . strip clean rebuild? ill probably start now . . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H7ERO Posted April 11, 2011 Author Share Posted April 11, 2011 THANKS VERY MUCH just needed someone who had the symtoms befor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted April 11, 2011 Share Posted April 11, 2011 I'd put a seal kit in it whilst it's apart, if you can wait for one to be ordered from your Toyota dealer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H7ERO Posted April 11, 2011 Author Share Posted April 11, 2011 Striped n cleaned it with compressed air there was some dirt in there nothing major but the return hole is tiny so could have been blocked. everything looked good in the cylinder seals pretty minty so just re greased and put back together Bleeding the mc is a pain tho so i resorted to back bleeding it with a syringe which did the job I didnt have enough fluid to fully bleed the brakes system and then went to work but it seemed to be working ok now even though it was a bit soft from air trapped in it so fingers crossed thats it and thanks again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted April 11, 2011 Share Posted April 11, 2011 What grease did you use? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H7ERO Posted April 11, 2011 Author Share Posted April 11, 2011 (edited) Silkolene rg pro. . . I was going to leave it un greased as i didnt want to use the wrong stuff just lubricate with fluid but the manual stated to grease the seals. Your making me paranoid now il have NO brakes in the morning Edited April 12, 2011 by H7ERO (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted April 12, 2011 Share Posted April 12, 2011 You need to be really careful with grease on brake seals. The only one I have used is Girling Red Brake Grease, which can be hard to source. It's basically brake fluid in a highly viscous form. The wrong sorts of grease can damage the seals by perishing or swelling them. But if that's the stuff Toyota recommend for brake seals it should be fine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted April 12, 2011 Share Posted April 12, 2011 http://www.silkoleneoil.com/pdf/PRO%20RG2%20-%204%20Wheel.pdf Doesn't sound right to me This is what I always use: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/CASTROL-GIRLING-RED-RUBBER-GREASE-BRAKE-GREASE-BEST-/400085380144 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H7ERO Posted April 12, 2011 Author Share Posted April 12, 2011 (edited) iv been researching it too . . . cant find the difinate answer even on the tech sheet for the silkolene but it does look exactly the same as that grease and the reason i had it in the firstplace was i was sold it as rubber sear seal friendly for a previouse project its done now i can get a new mc or seal kit as a reserve Edited April 12, 2011 by H7ERO (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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