Parry_10 Posted April 6, 2011 Share Posted April 6, 2011 I have ordered a set of meister r coilovers now I know the rears are simple but with the fronts ive read up you have to remove the droplinks but ive also read up a few people havent and have managed to leave them on and use a big lever bar to get the leverage. So im wondering what is the best way to do it as I dont want to damage my drop links cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swampy442 Posted April 6, 2011 Share Posted April 6, 2011 Anti roll bar links just bolt to the lower arm, 1 nut and 1 bolt. Unbolt that and spin it out of the way, then compress the suspension, fit some spring compressors, take out the lower bolt and 3 top mount nuts off, release pressure on the suspension, remove strut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Parry_10 Posted April 6, 2011 Author Share Posted April 6, 2011 the problem is ive heard they are a pain to unbolt and the allen key part just rounds off so you end up needing to use molegrips which risks damaging them or cutting them off altogther Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BOB B Posted April 7, 2011 Share Posted April 7, 2011 (edited) When I did this, I wrecked both anti role bar links and they were expensive to replace, all I do now is take some of the wheel trim off at the front of the arches and take the long bolt out of the top of the big "V" thing then the whole hub drops down, real easy to change suspension this way, as you can tell I'm not good with the proper names of any parts. Just seen the name of the part in another thread "wishbone". Edited April 7, 2011 by BOB B (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Konrad Posted April 7, 2011 Share Posted April 7, 2011 Antirollbar links costs around 20 pounds/piece, I wouldn't call this particulary expensive... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted April 7, 2011 Share Posted April 7, 2011 The only thing you need remove is the top wishbone inner pivot bolt, each side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Parry_10 Posted April 7, 2011 Author Share Posted April 7, 2011 ok cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nic Posted April 7, 2011 Share Posted April 7, 2011 THIS may help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Parry_10 Posted April 7, 2011 Author Share Posted April 7, 2011 cheers nic, hopefully that inner suspension arm bolt isnt too much of a pain to get out then I should have enough leverage to get the strut out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted April 7, 2011 Share Posted April 7, 2011 There's no need for leverage, force or anything brutal once the top wishbone is free. On the LH side you need to loosen the washer bottle to give clearance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wile e coyote Posted April 7, 2011 Share Posted April 7, 2011 This thread will help me as im changing mine soon Cheers guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted April 7, 2011 Share Posted April 7, 2011 only thing I would add to perhaps help, is having a rod thinner than the wishbone bolt can be handy to help relocate the upper wishbone when refitting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted April 7, 2011 Share Posted April 7, 2011 There's no need for leverage, force or anything brutal once the top wishbone is free. On the LH side you need to loosen the washer bottle to give clearance. I have to disagree there, even with the top wishbone off you still need leverage to push down in order to lever down the ARB. I guess you may be talking about when all 4 corners are off the deck though, I have only done it jacking up 1 side at a time (at the front). It still took a LOT of force (my 18st mate standing on the disc hub) to get the stock suspension clear. I've changed my suspension a couple of times now and it has been a doddle due to the fact I already had lowered springs etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted April 7, 2011 Share Posted April 7, 2011 I do them on a two post ramp, so the ARB isn't loaded. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_jekyll Posted April 7, 2011 Share Posted April 7, 2011 good choice with the meister r. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Parry_10 Posted April 7, 2011 Author Share Posted April 7, 2011 so basically if I have the front completely jacked up then I wont need as much leverage if any at all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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