Dnk Posted March 16, 2011 Share Posted March 16, 2011 If its not hot air coming out the heater you need to carry on the bleeding process, some can be stubborn and some just kinda go quite quickly. The last one i did bled through straight away but others have taken longer and needed to be coaxed along. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kirvis Posted March 16, 2011 Author Share Posted March 16, 2011 If its not hot air coming out the heater you need to carry on the bleeding process, some can be stubborn and some just kinda go quite quickly. The last one i did bled through straight away but others have taken longer and needed to be coaxed along. Man its been an hour now im doing it! ill take for a run now to see if it overheats Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted March 16, 2011 Share Posted March 16, 2011 Be very carefull you dont cook the cylinder head, if it overheats it can warp and then its scrap and you'll need a new one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kirvis Posted March 16, 2011 Author Share Posted March 16, 2011 Ok ive just done 10 miles run around. The temp is ok but still no warm air at all. But im not bothered about the war air now... Hopefully ill make my 200 mile journey today... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted March 16, 2011 Share Posted March 16, 2011 But even if there was an airlock the water pump would still be moving water round the engine and therefor the rad wouldnt be half n half, wouldnt it? Im only going on my experience with similar symptoms Thats what I thought too, the trouble is that the pump doesn't get the water past the lock, it just pushes it against the bubble and the bubble pushes back. Worst case scenario is that the lock is actually at the pump and the pump is trying to flow air Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted March 16, 2011 Share Posted March 16, 2011 Sounds like a blocked matrix then. Take off the 2 pipes that are connected at the bulk head, these feed to and from the matrix. Connect one end up to a bit of hose so that you can point it away from the car, and put a hose in the other end. Run the water into it and watch for gunk and crap coming out of it. To quickly check the matrix, both of the pipes mentioned above should be hot. If only 1 of them is hot then the matrix is blocked Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terminator Posted March 16, 2011 Share Posted March 16, 2011 200 miles with an air lock, could result in disaster, as you have not identified the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kirvis Posted March 16, 2011 Author Share Posted March 16, 2011 you mean tiny pipes at the back of the engine? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kirvis Posted March 16, 2011 Author Share Posted March 16, 2011 200 miles with an air lock, could result in disaster, as you have not identified the problem. im an RAC member Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terminator Posted March 16, 2011 Share Posted March 16, 2011 The RAC don't supply straight heads. If you have air in the system it will expand the hotter it gets, if the rad cap is working properly it will let water out of the rad under pressure into the expansion bottle. A ten mile run wont be enough to show if the problem is still there, as you have displace some of the air but not all of it. So in theory you could dump a lot of water as the air expands, then air will be sucked in to replace the water lost. It wont take long for the cooling system to stop pumping enough water round the head to keep it cool, then you will need more than the RAC. Budget for £800 plus to replace the head. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted March 16, 2011 Share Posted March 16, 2011 The RAC don't supply straight heads. If you have air in the system it will expand the hotter it gets, if the rad cap is working properly it will let water out of the rad under pressure into the expansion bottle. A ten mile run wont be enough to show if the problem is still there, as you have displace some of the air but not all of it. So in theory you could dump a lot of water as the air expands, then air will be sucked in to replace the water lost. It wont take long for the cooling system to stop pumping enough water round the head to keep it cool, then you will need more than the RAC. Budget for £800 plus to replace the head. Pretty much somes up what could happen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kirvis Posted March 16, 2011 Author Share Posted March 16, 2011 I ran it for 2 hours now and the temp is still ok. Ill see what will happen as i need to go to pick some wheels up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lbm Posted March 16, 2011 Share Posted March 16, 2011 Moved from chat & re-titled. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kirvis Posted March 16, 2011 Author Share Posted March 16, 2011 Ive done another 30 miles and guess what. Its blowing hot air now ;-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swampy442 Posted March 16, 2011 Share Posted March 16, 2011 Good times Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kirvis Posted March 16, 2011 Author Share Posted March 16, 2011 just came back from my trip i managed to travel 340 miles and no overheating. also got nice set of wheels Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terminator Posted March 16, 2011 Share Posted March 16, 2011 Well done, glad the air lock cleared. Good outcome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted March 17, 2011 Share Posted March 17, 2011 Good news. For what it costs i'd still pop a new rad cap on there. Have you checked the level in the expansion tank after your trip and with the car cooled down ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kirvis Posted March 17, 2011 Author Share Posted March 17, 2011 Good news. For what it costs i'd still pop a new rad cap on there. Have you checked the level in the expansion tank after your trip and with the car cooled down ? i havent. Why? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted March 17, 2011 Share Posted March 17, 2011 Because if there was more air in the system it will or should have drawn coolant out of the tank back into the radiator thus redusing the level in the expansion tank. This is why its very important that the rad cap is working 100% Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kirvis Posted March 17, 2011 Author Share Posted March 17, 2011 Does anyone got a szpare rad cap? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swampy442 Posted March 17, 2011 Share Posted March 17, 2011 Yup, motor factors, 10 quid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kirvis Posted March 17, 2011 Author Share Posted March 17, 2011 Pm me ur paypal details please Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swampy442 Posted March 17, 2011 Share Posted March 17, 2011 No mate I mean go to a motor factors and buy one for a tenner lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kirvis Posted March 17, 2011 Author Share Posted March 17, 2011 Lol. Ups have you got the link Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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