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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Cheap and nasty wheels


Chris Wilson

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As someone on the thread said:

 

"Cast wheels are brittle due to the manufacturing process of the wheel. forged wheels have the metal grain structure intact and is the strongest method of forming any metal component"

 

Some scary pics on there!

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The Enkeis are a brilliant example of how a forged rim will deform and even tear without shattering. I had a stock R33 GTR Skyline rim here someone had driven over an eight inch concrete sleeper on, at speed. Horribly deformed, but for fun I crack tested it, and it had no defects other than deformation. Impressive, but so is the price of good OE rims, and forged aftermarket ones.

 

Sadly there are now apparently more fakes of the big names on the market than the real McCoy, so great care is needed.

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As a spin-off from this topic, I found myself wondering the other day, whether or not the mating surface of a wheel could be machined down to give more offset -say from a +32 to a +50 tyo suit a Supra.

 

It's probably possible and reasonably safe to do so if the amount being removed isn't silly, trying to turn a +0 rim into a +50 rim for example would be a bad idea from the get-go.

 

But the level of success and, consequently, safety would undoubtedly depend on the design of rim and the amount of material there is between the mounting face and where the wheel nuts make contact with the rim, turning too much off the mounting face might lead to a weak point developing around the bolt holes.

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Can someone please reassure me that a pair of Rota Drift Torque 17" x 9.5" will stand up to being bolted to the arse end of a 1JZ'd MKIV track car??

 

I have a pair of 17" x 9" Work Emotion Cr Kai for the front but they don't make them any bigger than 9" wide in a 17" diameter hence the need to go Rota on the rear to keep the look of the rims, front and rear, the same.

 

A huge consideration, I'm sure you'll all agree!:innocent:

 

But seriously should I be reconsidering my next purchase?

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  • 10 months later...
Can someone please reassure me that a pair of Rota Drift Torque 17" x 9.5" will stand up to being bolted to the arse end of a 1JZ'd MKIV track car??

 

I have a pair of 17" x 9" Work Emotion Cr Kai for the front but they don't make them any bigger than 9" wide in a 17" diameter hence the need to go Rota on the rear to keep the look of the rims, front and rear, the same.

 

A huge consideration, I'm sure you'll all agree!:innocent:

 

But seriously should I be reconsidering my next purchase?

 

ROTA wheels are notoriously fragile. There's loads of stories of smashed ROTAs on the net.

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As someone on the thread said:

 

"Cast wheels are brittle due to the manufacturing process of the wheel. forged wheels have the metal grain structure intact and is the strongest method of forming any metal component"

 

Some scary pics on there!

 

I think that should be qualified as a rubbish casting using rubbish materials and no heat treatment is brittle, but a good casting is ok. Comparing similar designs, a forging will be stronger. The forging process and tooling is way more expensive so you (hopefully) won't find cheap knock off forged wheels.

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I've got some Rays and they were far from cheap and hopefully not nasty? I think they are cast though - 5 spoke jobbies, I think the 57Pro? Fingers crossed they weren't rubbish cast with rubbish materials and were heat treated :)

 

 

I have those on my Skyline. They are strong, but weigh a ton. They came on another Skyline i bought and as the offset and counter bore are spot on I have lived with their weight. Once the new shell is built up I think I will go with Image rims, or some Enkei RP4's or whatever they are called, the really light ones.

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I have those on my Skyline. They are strong, but weigh a ton. They came on another Skyline i bought and as the offset and counter bore are spot on I have lived with their weight. Once the new shell is built up I think I will go with Image rims, or some Enkei RP4's or whatever they are called, the really light ones.

 

Yay, as approved by Chris Wilson :D I find it funny you think they weight a ton, they are almost HALF the weight of my old Speedlines! I think 10 or 12kg a wheel for the 57's, I properly noticed a difference in handling due to the reduction in unsprung weight.

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ROTA wheels are notoriously fragile. There's loads of stories of smashed ROTAs on the net.

 

I persevered with my search and managed to find a nice set of forged 17" Volk Challenge F-Zero in 9" front & 10" rear, ET's +44.

 

I have another complete set of these in 8" & 9" so I have all the rims I need for wet and dry conditions.

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