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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

The R.O.A.D, What the hell is it?!


hackin_n_bashin

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I've been told placing a 1 or 2 pence piece near the battery terminals does the same thing.

 

sacrificial anodes wont work unless submerged in water, saltwater i think aswell, they use them on the rigs. I think this thing is meant to do the same job but in open air, would think it probably pulls a fair amount of current from the battery if it even works.

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sacrificial anodes wont work unless submerged in water, saltwater i think aswell, they use them on the rigs. I think this thing is meant to do the same job but in open air, would think it probably pulls a fair amount of current from the battery if it even works.

 

Good old wives tales you have got to love them. Although at least it appears based on fact.

 

I get furring on my battery terminals, the easiest thing to do I suppose is get some of that sealant for battery terminals.

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I have one of these on my car, although I don't think it's a RODE one. It was fitted when I got it. Are there two wires coming out of yours with bits on the end, 'stuck' to the bodywork in opposite-ish parts of the engine bay?

 

It apparently creates some sort of electrical current or magnetic field or something (I forget exactly what) around the bodywork to reduce/prevent rusting. I don't know how this is supposed to work though because I haven't read up on any of it. It sounds a little farfetched to me, but I'm willing to be proven wrong if somebody cares to explain :)

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I assume it emits a miniscule electrical current (or perhaps absorbs one) in order to counteract the electrical charge generated in most metals when exposed to the Earth's atmosphere thereby reducing the effects of oxidisation which is, from what I can gather, your car being burnt to a crisp, only over an extended period of time.

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http://www.corrosion-doctors.org/Car/car-electronic-rust.htm

 

The rust happens not where the metal is dry, nor where the metal is wet - but at the interface between the wet and dry metal. So if you screwed a bunch of anodes right on the interface or one or two millimeters thereof, you would protect your car. But you would need thousands of these anodes over your car.
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You can test it by removing it and throwing it into the nearest body of deep water. If it floats it is good to refit. If it sinks, it isn't. Called the Flotation Test. Often used with Lucas ignition components, too :)

 

I'm struggling to work out if you're taking the piss here..?! Everything about it says you are, but there's no silly smiley!

 

Sounds like how they used to test if someone was a witch!!

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I'm struggling to work out if you're taking the piss here..?! Everything about it says you are, but there's no silly smiley!

 

Sounds like how they used to test if someone was a witch!!

If two witches were watching two watches, which witch would watch which watch?

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I think it is A.O.D.E Anti Oxidisation destruction electronicly.It doesnt draw any power but instead cleans the electrical charge running through the electronics.The power will run through one part of the system and any impurities will be drawn out of that current ,this is then destroyed by the use of 2 apposing magnets .the earth is also cleaned in the same way.The magnets squeeze the power/earth only allowing pure /pure live /negative through the two of them.the impurities are actually dispersed into the opposite magnet.the system is really clever.When you remove it if you do open it up and take a look inside .it is so simple how it works and can be built easily at home in the diy garage. all parts are available from any auto electronics suppliers.Now you have just read a load of crap,probably the same as what it is so im with Chris needs a float test.

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