CanisLupus Posted March 11, 2011 Share Posted March 11, 2011 Hi guys. After being sick for two weeks i finally managed to get to work on the car today. To give you a little background here are the Symptoms: First it started to do something which felt like fuel cut when the throttle was open 60-70% and more but only on first turbo. Then it was idling fine till it got some temperature after that the idle was jumping from 1200rpm to 2200 and back all the time only thing helping was to get on second turbo and get some boost. After this it idled fine till next startup only thing was it was idleing rich as a pig... 2 or 3 weeks ago i was out giving it some on the Autobahn until it popped(again felt like fuel cut) since then i can't go over 40% tps or it will cut. So in conclusion, it runs rich has jumping idle and severe cuts/missfires. As mentioned before, today i got the chance to get some work done on the car and one of the things was measuring the MAP and IAT Sensors. The IAT was fine now(seems my instrument f...d up last time). The MAP Sensor got the following results: Ignition Off 0V which is ok Ignition On around 4V which is far to much according to this thread When i switched ran the engine it dropped to about 3,3V and changing as the revs jumped which also is far to much. Would i be right in assuming that the MAP is F....d? And that the symptoms above have something to do with the Sensor giving to high readings? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Blyth Posted March 11, 2011 Share Posted March 11, 2011 Something isn't right! When you tested the sensor with just the ignition on, did you remove the hose going to the MAP sensor? If not I'd give that a try to rule out any problems in the tubing, such as a blocked restrictor. After that, I'd check that you are getting between 4.5V and 5.5V on the power supply pin to the MAP sensor (between pin 3 and pin 1). If the power supply is good and you're still getting above 2.75V with the ignition on but the engine off, I'd say it's time for a replacement MAP sensor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanisLupus Posted March 11, 2011 Author Share Posted March 11, 2011 Nope i tested the sensor with everything attached to it. :\ Thanks for the advice. Will try everything you mentioned first thing tomorrow morning! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian C Posted March 12, 2011 Share Posted March 12, 2011 4 volts on the MAP sensor signal wire = 0.73bar of boost no wonder it's overfuelling! You should see around 2.65v with ignition on but engine not running. I'll go attach my spreadsheet to that thread you linked and punt it into tech articles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanisLupus Posted March 12, 2011 Author Share Posted March 12, 2011 Thanks guys. One question do i take the reading between the signal wire and the brn/blk wire on the sensor itself or between signal and ground(i.e. Battery -)? Today i measured around again and when i take the reading between the connected wires on the sensor itself it's @ 2.65V with ignition on and engine not running, when i take the reading between ground and the signal wire it's over 4V... Really getting p....d if it isn't the MAP either. What else coud it be then? IAT not, MAP not. Coil resistance is ok, plugs look ok only signs of the overfuelling... FPR maybe? How would i test the FPR? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanisLupus Posted March 12, 2011 Author Share Posted March 12, 2011 No one? Pleeaaaase help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Blyth Posted March 12, 2011 Share Posted March 12, 2011 The fact that you get 2.65V between the signal and ground wires of the MAP sensor tells me that the sensor is probably OK. The ground wire of the sensor is not connected directly to the chassis ground; the engine sensors have their own isolated ground. Let me have a bit of a think on what to check next... (p.s. what was the reading you took of the sensor power supply pin?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanisLupus Posted March 12, 2011 Author Share Posted March 12, 2011 Ah forgot this one. Voltage between the power supply pins was 4.95-5.00Volts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanisLupus Posted March 13, 2011 Author Share Posted March 13, 2011 Little Update. Coolant temp Sensor seems ok too... Can a mod rename the thread please? Something like Running rich, hunting idle and missfire. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest anesn Posted March 13, 2011 Share Posted March 13, 2011 i got the same problem, tried to change ecu, coilpacks, sparkplugs, map sensor, checked the vakum the pistons and less or more, i'd guess it some sensor like crankshaft / camshaft not quite sure. Cant read the codes either the lamp doesnt want to blink its just yellow at all time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanisLupus Posted March 14, 2011 Author Share Posted March 14, 2011 Hi, after watching your videos it doesn't seem exactly the same like mine. I'll try to make a vid tomorrow or on wednesday. Anybody some tips on what else to check? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Blyth Posted March 14, 2011 Share Posted March 14, 2011 Are you getting any fault codes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanisLupus Posted March 14, 2011 Author Share Posted March 14, 2011 Tried to get them when i last drove it but my MIL light wouldn't flash when i bridged the Ports. Just lighted up and stayed on. Have to check the connections for the ports first then go for a ride and check for codes eventually. Is it possible bridge the two ports elsewhere on the ECU or somewhere else? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Blyth Posted March 15, 2011 Share Posted March 15, 2011 Yeah, there are TE1 and E1 terminals in the circular diagnostics connector below the steering wheel, next to the bonnet release. Their positions are shown on the back of the connector's cover. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mellonman Posted March 15, 2011 Share Posted March 15, 2011 i had something similar with my hks fcd, it was that it was not wired in with a good conection and was getting poor voltages or earth (make shaw it wired and solderd and not through a conector block) just something to try Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanisLupus Posted March 15, 2011 Author Share Posted March 15, 2011 Yeah, there are TE1 and E1 terminals in the circular diagnostics connector below the steering wheel, next to the bonnet release. Their positions are shown on the back of the connector's cover. Thanks! Will try that this evening if i have the chance or tomorrow. i had something similar with my hks fcd, it was that it was not wired in with a good conection and was getting poor voltages or earth (make shaw it wired and solderd and not through a conector block) just something to try FCD was the first thing i threw out when all started. Thanks for considering Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanisLupus Posted March 17, 2011 Author Share Posted March 17, 2011 Little update... Tried the car yesterday. Behaved strange(wouldn't fire up first time which it always did) i have a short video how it behaves. Will upload tomorrow. Also have the fault code 22 coolant temp sensor short or something. Sadly didn't have the time to do anything but will tomorrow and over the weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanisLupus Posted March 27, 2011 Author Share Posted March 27, 2011 Ok 22 is solved... forgot to connect the coolant temp sensor after measuring it. *stupid* Today i changed to Superspark coil packs and changed back to my old O2 Sensor. Only improvement is that it goes fine on WOT again after transition before transition it still missfires. Also Idle sucks still too and it's still running pretty rich. What i noticed is that there is a very loud hissing noise from the intake when it's hunting idle. If i'm lucky and it stops doing it the hissing disappears too. Also i could read fault codes the first time i started it today and found nothing. After the test drive on the videos it wouldn't work again on neither of the diagnostic ports.... Here are some videos(audio quality sucks a little bit) hope it's possible to recognize what i mean. I'll upload part 2 of the test drive tomorrow. Please ignore the dash and the two gauges i'm in the process of getting the interior finished which is stopped by these problems. Idling http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c9UOxbP7m0s Test drive Part 1 [video=youtube;Jb-V0kvqOmo]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jb-V0kvqOmo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanisLupus Posted March 31, 2011 Author Share Posted March 31, 2011 Maybe a stupid Question. But is it Possible when the Ignition + on the ECU isn't fully getting 12V+ this/those mistake/s occur/s? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mellonman Posted March 31, 2011 Share Posted March 31, 2011 have you checked all the vac pipes there are some over buy the intake and throttle body, is the hissing air or pump noise Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanisLupus Posted April 2, 2011 Author Share Posted April 2, 2011 Ok now... call me blind or stupid or anything... Today i wanted to meter the leads to and from the ECU and when i took a closer look i saw that the Red/Black "Ignition On" wire was ripped close to the ECU... So i cleaned up the mess the previous owner made around the ECU, soldered all wires and Tada... Car is running like a dream. Several weeks of sensor testing, ICV cleaning and other things i've tried. And everything was solved by a closer look and 1 hour of soldering. Only thing left is my Hot Starting issue which i'm going to tackle tomorrow. Thanks for the tip mellonman. The Pipes will be changed although the problem is solved. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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