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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Clutch change parts


Homer

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When changing a stock clutch (for another stock one) which other parts are required from Mr T? The clutch is now slipping quite badly so will replace the flywheel as that's probably b*ggered too.

 

- Should the release bearing be renewed?

- How about the various washers and bits around the bearing, are they re-usable?

- Flywheel bolts?

 

anything else?

 

PS: It's a w58, not 6spd. The parts needed seem different to what I remember, so want to check with you guys first

 

Cheers

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Cheers Si. New flywheel bolts or can they be reused? I seem to recall they need to be replaced with new... got a feeling they aren't cheap!

 

my research on this forum suggested that a new flywheel bolt would be a must - IIRC it was 30 from toyota.

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ill be honest ,i have just put yet another clutch in mine and forgot to order new flywheel bolts , so inmy rush to get the car done on time i just reused the ones i took out. im notto worried though , they looked in good nick so i just torqued them up nice and tight. im sure they wont come loose . and even if they do, i think id notice before its to late. i re used the pressure plate bolts to.... what a rebel

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flywheel bolts for w58 came in at about £55 for all 8 from toyota near me and they already come with a loctite compound on them, its the bolts for the 6 speed flywheel that are £10-£11 a piece

 

that's it, 60 for the set, not 30.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hey guys i really need to know what parts i have to change when changing a clutch... Does flywheel need replacing too or is it not necesary?

It's a 95' N/A 5sp i assume this is w58? And if anyone has these parts let me know. It's for a mate back here and he is getting on my nerves !

Thx

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On a TT change the plate, cover and release bearing, and the bearing in the back of the crank (spigot bearing), for which you will need a special puller, or hours of fun with grease and mandrels. I wouldn't bother changing the flywheel bolts unless it's a big HP engine, or used for drag starts. Re use all the clips, unless damaged they should be fine. Consider re sealing the slave cylinder.

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Good to know Chris :) Mines an NA so definetly not big HP!

 

Any thoughts on whether the pressure plate should be replaced? It's been slipping for a little while so am using a good 2nd hand flywheel and rebuilt organic clutch. It's only cost about £70 but obviously want it not to slip afterwards!

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You should renew the pressure plate (cover) and driven plate. If it's been slipping the spring in the cover may well have lost temper with the heat. I hate rebuilt clutches as they often machine the pressure plat face to true them up and that reduces the clamping force and alters the geo so they often don't release fully, even with the pedal mashed into the floor. Some are OK, but they can give hassle.

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Understand what you're saying Chris, I had a reground plate on my last car and the bite point was always low, though it did last 36k miles (BPU then single turbo)

 

It's only the clutch plate itself thats rebuilt (Keron is supplying), I was hoping to get away using the current pressure plate, but not sure if that's wise from what you've said. I've been driving it very steady and it's only slipped a dozen times for only a second or so, still worth swapping just in case? It's only to pootle around on until I finally decide which uprated one to go for (GTE engine, probably 'Wez' spec)

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  • 1 month later...

Forgot to say thanks for the last post Chris! Finally getting around to doing this...

 

On a TT change the plate, cover and release bearing, and the bearing in the back of the crank (spigot bearing), for which you will need a special puller, or hours of fun with grease and mandrels.

 

Chris/anyone, is there an off the shelf tool for removing the spigot bearing (or anything DIY you could recommend)?

 

It's only on an NA, but Toyota list the spigot bearing as a non-reusable part. The release bearing is listed as reusable.

 

TIA :)

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found a quote from the man himself.........

 

"Easy way: With a slide hammer and a split collet bush removing tool.

 

Trickier but another possible way: Close fitting round steel bar, pack spigot bearing with grease (NO air voids)insert bar into the end of the bearing, belt bar with big hammer, the grease hydraulics out the bearing, or repeat until successful or you give up and buy the right tool. "

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